| Literature DB >> 35323286 |
Vaibhav Gupta1, Sradhanjali Mohapatra1, Harshita Mishra2, Uzma Farooq1, Keshav Kumar1, Mohammad Javed Ansari3, Mohammed F Aldawsari3, Ahmed S Alalaiwe3, Mohd Aamir Mirza1, Zeenat Iqbal1.
Abstract
Nanotechnology has the potential to generate advancements and innovations in formulations and delivery systems. This fast-developing technology has been widely exploited for diagnostic and therapeutic purposes. Today, cosmetic formulations incorporating nanotechnology are a relatively new yet very promising and highly researched area. The application of nanotechnology in cosmetics has been shown to overcome the drawbacks associated with traditional cosmetics and also to add more useful features to a formulation. Nanocosmetics and nanocosmeceuticals have been extensively explored for skin, hair, nails, lips, and teeth, and the inclusion of nanomaterials has been found to improve product efficacy and consumer satisfaction. This is leading to the replacement of many traditional cosmeceuticals with nanocosmeceuticals. However, nanotoxicological studies on nanocosmeceuticals have raised concerns in terms of health hazards due to their potential skin penetration, resulting in toxic effects. This review summarizes various nanotechnology-based approaches being utilized in the delivery of cosmetics as well as cosmeceutical products, along with relevant patents. It outlines their benefits, as well as potential health and environmental risks. Further, it highlights the regulatory status of cosmeceuticals and analyzes the different regulatory guidelines in India, Europe, and the USA and discusses the different guidelines and recommendations issued by various regulatory authorities. Finally, this article seeks to provide an overview of nanocosmetics and nanocosmeceuticals and their applications in cosmetic industries, which may help consumers and regulators to gain awareness about the benefits as well as the toxicity related to the continuous and long-term uses of these products, thus encouraging their judicious use.Entities:
Keywords: cosmeceuticals; cosmetics; health hazards; nanocosmeceuticals; nanocosmetics; nanomaterial; nanotechnology; patent; regulation; toxicity
Year: 2022 PMID: 35323286 PMCID: PMC8951203 DOI: 10.3390/gels8030173
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Gels ISSN: 2310-2861
Figure 1Advantages of nanocosmeceuticals.
Different nanomaterials used for preparing cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.
| S. No. | Nanomaterial | Advantage | Disadvantage | Uniqueness | Type of Cosmeceutical | Commercially Available Product | Reference |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
| Inorganic particles (TiO2, ZnO) | Hydrophilic, biocompatible, safe, and stable | Pulmonary toxicity | Absorb/reflect UV light | Sunscreen | Phytorx UV Defense Sun Block SPF 100—Lotus Professionals | [ |
|
| Silica (SiO2) | Hydrophilic, ↓ manufacturing cost | Pulmonary toxicity | Used as filler to ↑ the bulk of the cosmetic formulation | Lipstick | Face FWD >> Blush Stick—Sugar Cosmetics | [ |
|
| Carbon black | Light weight, ↑ chemical and thermal stability, and ↓ cost | Cytotoxicity; alters the phagocytic property of macrophages | Color pigment | Facemask | Face Masque—Carbon BAE | [ |
| Mascara | Mascara Black—Lakme | ||||||
|
| Nano-organic (tris-biphenyl triazine) | Powerful and photostable filter | Hazardous to the aquatic environment | Most efficient UVB and UVA 2 filter | Sunscreen | Extra UV Gel—Allie | [ |
|
| Nano-hydroxyapatite | Dental desensitizer and polish remineralization of teeth | Very brittle nature | Safe in pediatric toothpaste | Toothpaste | Kinder Karex Hydroxyapatite | [ |
| APAGARD M plus—Sangi | |||||||
|
| Gold and silver nanoparticles | Uniform shape, size, and branch length; tuned pharmacokinetics and biodistribution; antibacterial and antifungal activity; and chemical stability | Damages human cells and DNA at high doses; pulmonary toxicity | Surface-enhanced Raman scattering | Facemask | Gold Radiance Peel Off Mask–VLCC | [ |
| Anti-aging cream | Nano Gold Firming Treatment—Chantecaille | ||||||
|
| Buckyballs (buckminsterfullerene/C60) | Exhibits antioxidant activity, thermostability, and photostability; prevents many skin problems related to oxidative stress | Pulmonary toxicity; damages brain tissues; highly hydrophobic | Potent scavenger of free radicals | Face cream | Brightening Essence—Juva Skincare | [ |
Figure 2Proportions of different inorganic nanoparticles in cosmetics formulation.
Figure 3Various nanoformulations used in the cosmetic industry.
Nanoformulations used for preparing various cosmeceuticals.
| S. No. | Nanoformulation | Advantage | Disadvantage | Uniqueness | Type of Cosmeceutical | Commercially Available Product | Reference |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Nanoliposomes | Biodegradable, biocompatible, amphiphilic, and ↑ skin penetration | May trigger an immune response, ↓ medication stacking, ↓ reproducibility, and physicochemical flimsiness | Ability to compartmentalize and solubilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic materials | Moisturizer | Dermosome—Microfluidics | [ |
| Anti-wrinkle cream | Capture Totale—Dior | ||||||
| 2. | Niosomes | ↑ Efficiency, penetration, bioavailability, and stability of drugs | ↑ Cost of production, physical and chemical instability, leakage of the drug, time-consuming production | Surface development and alteration are extremely simple due to presence of useful functional groups on the hydrophilic head | Anti-aging cream | Lancome®—Loreal, Paris | [ |
| 3. | Ethosomes | ↑ Efficiency and penetration of cosmetic delivery into the skin | Poor yield problems, ↓ stability, and possibility of coalescence | Consist of a relatively high percentage of ethanol | Moisturizer | Supravir Cream—Trima, Israel | [ |
| 4. | Sphingosomes | Reestablishment of barrier function of skin and repair of dehydrated and damaged skin | Poor entrapment efficiency and expensive | Consist of sphingolipid, which makes them more stable than phospholipid liposomes | Anti-cellulite cream | Noicellex—NTT, Israel | [ |
| 5. | Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) | ↑ Duration of action, ease of large-scale production, ↑ bioavailability and biodegradability | ↓ Shelf life, decreased drug encapsulation | Crystalline in nature, ↑ drug loading matrix; consists of solid lipid | Perfume and cream | Chanel Allur | [ |
| 6. | Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) | ↑ Shelf life, ease of large-scale production | ↓ Duration of action, higher drug encapsulation | The matrix consists of a blend of solid and liquid lipids | Face spa cream | Dr. Rimpler—Cutanova | [ |
| 7. | Nanocapsules | Protection of ingredients, masking of undesirable odors, resolution of incompatibility issues between formulation components, sustained release formulation | Additional purification step is required after nanocapsule formulation | Formation of micelles and amphiphilic in nature | Anti-wrinkle cream | Primordiale Intense—L’Or’ea | [ |
| Hair care | Nano Collagen—Braziliss | ||||||
| 8. | Dendrimers | ↑ Solubility of the lipophilic drug, controlled-release drug formulation, and maintenance of the stability of the drug in cosmetic formulations | Not good materials for hydrophilic drugs, cellular toxicity, ↑ manufacturing cost | ↑ Shelf life of the cosmetic formulation | Sunscreen | Topical Resveratrol Formulation | [ |
| 9. | Nanoemulsions | Transparent, stable, and amphiphilic | Preparation is difficult in cosmetic formulations, acid-sensitive, and ↓ duration of action | Creams containing nanoemulsions do not show problems of inherent creaming, flocculation, coalescence, or sedimentation | Body lotions, skin creams, balsams, salves, and gels | Cosmeceutical Vitamin A, D, E, K—Vitalipid | [ |
| Moisturizer | Nano Emulsion Multi-PeptideMoisturizer—Hanacure | ||||||
| 10. | Nanocrystal | ↑ Drug solubility, particle distribution, adhesiveness, dissolution rate, skin penetration of poorly water-soluble drugs | Possibility of aggregation, not appropriate for aqueous APIs, only stable to a certain extent | 100% drug loading ability | Moisturizer | Nano-In Hand and Nail Moisturizing Serum and Foot Moisturizing Serum—Nano-Infinity Nanotech | [ |
| Toothpaste | Nano WhiteningToothpaste—Whitewash |
Figure 4Diseases associated with nanoparticle exposure [119].
List of patents related to cosmeceuticals.
| S. No. | Patent No. | Country | Title | Application | Proof of Concept |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | CN100386064C | China | Biological wave nano-bioactive skin protection product | ↑ Microcirculation of the skin, hence ↑ metabolism and activation of cells, thereby improving the quality and activity of the skin, wherein vitamin E and ginsenosides can prevent skin aging and nourish the skin with good freckle removal effects. | A biological wave nano-bioactive skin protectant product comprising nanoparticles of ZrO2 and ZnO, vitamin E, and biological wave functional materials, such as ginsenosides and bioactive materials |
| 2. | KR101224378B1 | South Korea | Composite Pigment for cosmetic compositions and manufacturing method and manufacturing apparatus thereof | Complexing nanosized pigment particles (shell particles) to the surface of the extender pigment (core particles) to prevent reaggregation of nanosized pigment particles as shell particles and absorption into the human body | A composite pigment for cosmetics and a method for its manufacturing, wherein the composite pigment for cosmetics is coated with shell particles by physical pressure on the surface of the core particles |
| 3. | CN106660812A | China | Porous silica particles, a method for producing same, and cosmetic compounded with same | Porous silica particles in a cosmetic formulation act as a texture enhancer | This provides porous silica particles with a small specific surface area and a large pore volume, provides a method for producing the particles, and provides a cosmetic in which porous silica particles are present |
| 4. | BR102015012999A2 | Brazil | Composition, the process of preparation and use of nanocosmetic based on arnauba wax and quercetin with moisturizing, antioxidant and photoprotective action | A nanoparticle of carnauba wax lipid incorporating quercetin with 3-fold higher effectiveness as moisturizer, photoprotector, and antioxidant | The present invention describes a composition and process for the preparation and use of nanocosmetics consisting of lipid nanoparticles formulated with carnauba wax and quercetin incorporated into cosmetic formulations in gel, cream, lotion, or gel–cream forms |
| 5. | KR101578466B1 | South Korea | Porous sphere type zinc oxide powder of nanosize, manufacturing method thereof and color cosmetic composition using the same | Provides a spherical porous zinc oxide powder having a uniform particle size which ↑ the use by ↓ the opacity of the powder | The present invention relates to a spherical porous zinc oxide powder at the nano-scale, a process for its production, and a color cosmetic composition containing the same |
| 6. | KR20120091509A | South Korea | Nano-emulsion containing niacinamide and cosmetic composition comprising the same | A cosmetic composition containing niacinamide-containing nanoemulsions is provided to ↑ the transdermal absorption of niacinamide and to effectively and safely treat dry skin | Associated with niacinamide-containing nanoemulsion and a cosmetic formulation comprising the same |
| 7. | KR101528741B1 | South Korea | Silica-containing complex nanoparticles and hydrogel moisturizing patches comprising the same | Silica/zwitterionic polymer complex nanoparticles are able to strongly bind to moisture and accordingly ↓ vaporization speed, thereby having the effects of maintaining moisture and reinforcing the skin barrier | A silica/zwitterionic polymer complex nanoparticle, a manufacturing method thereof, and a hydrogel moisturizing patch |
| 8. | US9700042B2 | USA | Nanoformulation of musk-derived bioactive ingredients for nanocosmetic applications | Nanoformulation is applicable to cosmetic and textile manufacturing for providing fragrance and antimicrobial properties in cosmetic and textile products | Nanocarrier composition consists of hyaluronic acid (15–25%) and fatty acids (50–70%) cross-linked with ultra-low-molecular-weight chitosan (15–25%) incorporating isolated compounds from musk and their combinations |
| 9. | CN102274129A | China | Nano-sized core-shell composite material used for cosmetics and preparation method thereof | The composite material has sun-screening and moisturizing functions and dispersibility | The invention comprises a nanosized core–shell composite material composed of titanium oxide and zinc oxide based on the integration of characteristics of the 2 compounds, belonging to the field of skincare cosmetic chemicals |
| 10. | BR102015021346B1 | Brazil | Anti-inflammatory, healing and moisturizing tropic cosmeceutical formulation with active ingredients from Atallea Speciosa mart. Ex spreng (Babacu) | Provides anti-inflammatory, healing, and moisturizing activity and may be an alternative and/or therapeutic complement in the treatment of inflammation, tissue healing, and skin hydration processes | Topical anti-inflammatory, healing, and moisturizing cosmetic formulation with active ingredients of |
| 11. | TW201143840A | Taiwan | Compositions and methods for providing ultraviolet radiation protection | Provides excellent UV protection | Sunscreen compositions and related methods that can include a cosmetically acceptable carrier and a multitude of nanoparticles dispersed in the carrier |
| 12. | KR20120058795A | South Korea | Cosmetic composition containing carbon dioxide with nanopore | Provides excellent UV protection | Contains titanium dioxide to ensure high adhesion to the skin and excellent UV protection ability |
| 13. | KR101191268B1 | South Korea | Capsule composition contained nano inorganic particles for sunscreen product by hydrogel-forming polymers and manufacturing method thereof | Used to prevent skin penetration of nano-inorganic particles, as deep tissue penetration of nanoparticles results in various types of toxicity | Contains nano-inorganic particles providing UV protection and a method for manufacturing to form a thin hydrogel film |
| 14. | CN108401417A | China | Including improving the cosmetics of nano-particles and preparation method thereof of active principle containing whitening | Excellent nanoparticle for ↑ active principle containing whitening with long-term stability and cutaneous permeation of active principle | A cosmetic incorporating nanoparticles for ↑ active principle with skin-whitening effects; in more detail, the composition functions by ↑ the nanoparticle solubility to hydrophobic whitening active principle via micellization |
| 15. | CN104958189B | China | Light-sensitive color-matching makeup-removal-preventing nanopowder composition and application thereof in cosmetics | The novel skincare product can selectively reflect or scatter external light, only allows skin color light to enter skin, modifies dark skin and uneven surface shadows, and enables the skin to be bright and glossy | A light-sensitive color-matching makeup-removal-preventing nanopowder composition and a preparation method of the composition in cosmetics and application in cosmetics |
| 16. | KR20190085395A | South Korea | Patch composition comprising dog bone gold nano rod, graphene oxide or charcoal | The patch composition can be used as a patch, gel mask, and mask pack with excellent drug delivery into the skin and serves the function of causing an exothermic reaction when activated by LED light source having a wavelength of 700–1200 nm in the near-infrared region | A patch composition containing dog bone gold nanorod or charcoal or graphene oxide having ↑ visible light absorption; it can be used as a mask pack, having the effect of ↑ the drug delivery efficiency into the skin by implementing the target photothermal effect temperature of 41–45 °C by using an exothermic reaction |
| 17. | CN107001774B | China | Positive spherical monodisperse nanoparticle polyester resin water system dispersion and manufacturing method, positive spherical monodisperse nanoparticle polyester resin particle and cosmetics | Provides a kind of cosmetic that has good ductility in which there is good water resistance, softening skin | A novel technical method that is simple and inexpensive, steadily obtains useful positive spherical monodispersed nano-particle polyester resin particles and and water system dispersion |
| 18. | CN102958505B | China | Nanofiber laminate sheet | Appropriately used as a sheet-shaped make-up cosmetic | A nanofiber laminate sheet consisting of a layer of nanofibers composed of a water-insoluble polymeric compound, and a layer of a water-soluble polymeric compound includes a cosmetic component/a medicinal component |
| 19. | KR20130134580A | South Korea | Cosmetic compositions and layer comprising ultra-thin carbon | The thin-layer-laminated structure forms a coating film of the cosmetic composition on the skin, thereby having structural effects of making the active ingredients of the cosmetic composition useful for a long time and exhibiting excellent physical properties through a synergy effect | A cosmetic composition containing an ultra-thin carbon material having a surface diameter of 5–50 μm, which is a plate-type material made from graphite and has 1–10 molecular layers. |
| 20. | KR20140030395A | South Korea | The sunblock through hybrid of nanoparticle of a metal compound, the process for producing thereof, and the cosmetic utilizing thereof | Excellent UV protection | A sunblock agent formed by hybridization of nanoparticles of a metal compound, a process for producing the same, and cosmetic products utilizing the sunblock. More specifically, an organic and inorganic hybrid sunblock causes organic and inorganic hybridization by binding metal oxide nanoparticles of TiO2 or ZnO with one or more types of silane |
| 21. | TW200846027A | Taiwan | Nanocomposite pigments in a topical cosmetic application | ↑ Aesthetics and skin appearance | Introduction and the preparation of nano-pigments, with their role in ↑ aesthetic properties and skin appearance |
| 22. | US20100003291A1 | USA | Nano-particles for cosmetic applications | ↑ Characteristics of nanocosmetics and nanocosmeceuticals | Nanocosmetic and nanocosmeceutical preparations and their role in ↑ characteristics by improving the shortcomings of the traditional cosmetic preparation |
| 23. | CN101909580A | China | The Nanoparticulate compositions of enhanced color are provided to cosmetic formulations | ↑ Aesthetic properties, specifically color and skin appearance | The pharmaceutical composition comprises 1 or more pigments and the method for ↑ the external appearance of the biological surface by the optical characteristics |
| 24. | TW200533379A | Taiwan | Healthcare and cosmetic compositions containing nanodiamond | ↑ Mechanical strength of the cosmetic formulation | Shows ↑ binding capacity with the biological system and thus ↑ its mechanical strength; used in a variety of cosmetic formulations such as shampoo, nail polish, deodorants, eyeliners, etc. |
| 25. | KR20120058795A | South Korea | Cosmetic composition containing carbon dioxide with nanopore | Outstanding UV skin protectant due to good adhesive properties | Formulation containing 0.1–10 wt % TiO2 having a size in the range of 200–500 nm, providing protection against UV radiation and making the formulation softer |
| 27. | CA3124455A1 | Canada | Microparticles of cellulose nanocrystals with pigment nanoparticles bound thereto and method of production thereof | Preparation of several nanocosmeceuticals and nanocosmetics | Microparticles are formed by clustering nanocrystals and nanoparticle pigments, which are absorbed on the surface of nanocrystals |
| 28. | CN102112100B | China | Preparation of cationic nanoparticles and personal care compositions comprising said nanoparticles | Used as an antimicrobial agent in the cosmetic preparation | Utilization of cationic nanoparticles in the cosmetic formulation and their method of preparation and applications |
| 29. | KR100740275B1 | South Korea | Method for preparing zinc oxide powder with nanosize | UV protectant with ↑ transparency and adhesiveness | Method of preparation of nano-range ZnO particles by one-step wet preparation and their application in cosmetics |
| 30. | KR100785484B1 | South Korea | Base composition encapsulating high concentration of idebenone with nano sizes, its manufacturing method thereof, and cosmetic compositions containing it | Easily alter the viscosity of the cosmetic and hence ↑ the efficiency of production with ↓ cost | Method of preparation and application of the nanoencapsulation of ↑ concentration of idebenone in a bioactive base for cosmetics production |
| 31. | WO2021144889A1 | WIPO (PCT) | Nanobubble-containing cosmetic | Preparation of stable nanobubble solution | Introduction of nanobubble solution in the cosmetic formulation as an active ingredient |
| 32. | KR101436540B1 | South Korea | UV protection cosmetic composition comprising titania nanorod | UV protectant and transparency in cosmetics | Synthesis of a cosmetic formulation comprising titania nanorods as a potential sun protectant |
| 33. | CN102397168B | China | Flexible nanoliposomes with charges for cosmetics and preparation method thereof | ↑ Stability, permeability, efficiency, retention time, and action of the active ingredients | Introduction to flexible nanoliposomes and their utilization in the cosmetic formulations |
Comparison of regulation of cosmetics/cosmeceuticals in the USA, the European Union, and India [7].
| Country | Regulatory | Rules | Approval | Labeling | Labeling Declarations | Language of Label | Expiry Date | Safety | Warning |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| USA | USFDA | Food, Drug, and | No specific requirement | Must conform with the | 21 CFR 701 and 740 of USFDA | English | Not required | Manufacturer responsibility | On the primary display panel |
| EU | EMEA | Council | No specific requirement | Based on Council | Cosmetic Directive, Article 6 | National or member state | If the stability is <30 months → Date of minimum stability is mentioned; | Information file of the product is being maintained by the manufacturer | On both outer and inner label |
| India | CDSCO | Drugs and Cosmetics | Required under the state government | Comply with D&C rules 1945—Part XV | BIS and PCRO | English | It should have “Use before date” | The records of the product’s safety must be maintained by the manufacturer | On inner label |