Literature DB >> 20561271

Efficacy of pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing.

X Sanchez1, Ph Lambert, G Jones, D J Llewellyn.   

Abstract

Pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection (route preview) has been suggested as a key climbing performance parameter although its role has never been verified experimentally. We examined the efficacy of this perceptual-cognitive skill on indoor sport climbing performance. Twenty-nine male climbers, divided into intermediate, advanced and expert climbing level groups, climbed two indoor sport routes matching their climbing level and, where applicable, routes below their climbing level. At each level, one route was climbed with a preview, where participants benefited from a 3-min pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection. Performance was assessed in terms of output (route completion) and form (number and duration of moves and stops). Route preview did not influence the output performance. Climbers using visual inspection were no more likely to finish the ascent than those without the option of using visual inspection. Conversely, route preview did influence form performance; climbers made fewer, and shorter stops during their ascent following a preview of the route. Form performances differences remained when baseline ability levels were taken into account, although for shorter duration of stops only with expert climbers benefiting most from route preview. The ability to visually inspect a climb before its ascent may represent an essential component of performance optimization.
© 2010 John Wiley & Sons A/S.

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Year:  2010        PMID: 20561271     DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0838.2010.01151.x

Source DB:  PubMed          Journal:  Scand J Med Sci Sports        ISSN: 0905-7188            Impact factor:   4.221


  14 in total

Review 1.  Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation.

Authors:  Dominic Orth; Keith Davids; Ludovic Seifert
Journal:  Sports Med       Date:  2016-02       Impact factor: 11.136

2.  Effect of Two Types of Active Recovery on Fatigue and Climbing Performance.

Authors:  Pedro L Valenzuela; Pedro de la Villa; Carmen Ferragut
Journal:  J Sports Sci Med       Date:  2015-11-24       Impact factor: 2.988

3.  Physiological responses in rock climbing with repeated ascents over a 10-week period.

Authors:  Vanesa España-Romero; Randall L Jensen; Xavier Sanchez; Megan L Ostrowski; Jay E Szekely; Phillip B Watts
Journal:  Eur J Appl Physiol       Date:  2011-06-15       Impact factor: 3.078

4.  Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements.

Authors:  Ludovic Seifert; Romain Cordier; Dominic Orth; Yoan Courtine; James L Croft
Journal:  PLoS One       Date:  2017-04-25       Impact factor: 3.240

Review 5.  Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review.

Authors:  Dominik Saul; Gino Steinmetz; Wolfgang Lehmann; Arndt F Schilling
Journal:  J Exerc Sci Fit       Date:  2019-05-03       Impact factor: 3.103

6.  Environmental Design Shapes Perceptual-motor Exploration, Learning, and Transfer in Climbing.

Authors:  Ludovic Seifert; Jérémie Boulanger; Dominic Orth; Keith Davids
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2015-11-25

7.  Affordance Realization in Climbing: Learning and Transfer.

Authors:  Ludovic Seifert; Dominic Orth; Bruno Mantel; Jérémie Boulanger; Romain Hérault; Matt Dicks
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2018-05-28

Review 8.  Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing.

Authors:  Dominic Orth; Graham Kerr; Keith Davids; Ludovic Seifert
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2017-10-06

9.  On-Sight and Red-Point Climbing: Changes in Performance and Route-Finding Ability in Male Advanced Climbers.

Authors:  Eloisa Limonta; Maurizio Fanchini; Susanna Rampichini; Emiliano Cé; Stefano Longo; Giuseppe Coratella; Fabio Esposito
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2020-05-28

10.  Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing.

Authors:  Marlene H van Knobelsdorff; Nikki G van Bergen; John van der Kamp; Ludovic Seifert; Dominic Orth
Journal:  Scand J Med Sci Sports       Date:  2020-08-30       Impact factor: 4.221

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