Literature DB >> 32749011

Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing.

Marlene H van Knobelsdorff1, Nikki G van Bergen1, John van der Kamp1,2,3, Ludovic Seifert4, Dominic Orth1,5.   

Abstract

The capability to adapt to changing conditions is crucial for safe and successful performance in physical activities and sports. According to the affordance-based control perspective, individuals act in such a way as to take into account the limits of their capability to act. However, it is not clear how strength interacts with skill in shaping performer-environment interactions. We, therefore, determined whether fingertip strength influences patterns of gaze and climbing behavior on new routes of ever-increasing difficulty. We expected that comparatively weaker climbers would show less complex behavior because of an inability to perceive and act. Stronger climbers would show more complex visuo-motor behavior because more opportunities for action remain, even as route difficulty increases. For very strong climbers the route would not be challenging enough, and less complex patterns suffice. Twenty climbers, ranging from lower grade to elite level participated. Maximum fingertip strength was obtained. Participants previewed and then climbed two separate 3 m long traverses, gradually decreasing in edge depth. Gaze and hip positions were collected for subsequent computation of gaze transition entropy (during preview) and hip displacement entropy (during climbing). Data revealed statistically significant curvilinear relationships between both fingertip strength and gaze transition entropy, and fingertip strength, and hip displacement entropy. Visuo-motor complexity is scaled by how close the individual must act relative to boundaries of what the environment affords and does not afford for action given the individual constraints. Future research should examine in greater detail relationships between action capabilities and functional movement variability.
© 2020 The Authors. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science In Sports published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Entities:  

Keywords:  affordance-based control; constraints; entropy; functional movement variability; gaze analysis; sport climbing

Mesh:

Year:  2020        PMID: 32749011      PMCID: PMC7754417          DOI: 10.1111/sms.13789

Source DB:  PubMed          Journal:  Scand J Med Sci Sports        ISSN: 0905-7188            Impact factor:   4.221


  33 in total

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Authors:  Mark A Guadagnoli; Timothy D Lee
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3.  Reliability of Force Application to Instrumented Climbing Holds in Elite Climbers.

Authors:  Lars Donath; Peter Wolf
Journal:  J Appl Biomech       Date:  2015-05-07       Impact factor: 1.833

Review 4.  A review of gaze entropy as a measure of visual scanning efficiency.

Authors:  Brook Shiferaw; Luke Downey; David Crewther
Journal:  Neurosci Biobehav Rev       Date:  2019-01       Impact factor: 8.989

5.  Effects of a defender on run-up velocity and ball speed when crossing a football.

Authors:  Dominic Orth; Keith Davids; Duarte Araújo; Ian Renshaw; Pedro Passos
Journal:  Eur J Sport Sci       Date:  2012-07-06       Impact factor: 4.050

Review 6.  Multistability and metastability: understanding dynamic coordination in the brain.

Authors:  J A Scott Kelso
Journal:  Philos Trans R Soc Lond B Biol Sci       Date:  2012-04-05       Impact factor: 6.237

7.  Creative Motor Actions As Emerging from Movement Variability.

Authors:  Dominic Orth; John van der Kamp; Daniel Memmert; Geert J P Savelsbergh
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2017-10-31

8.  Role of route previewing strategies on climbing fluency and exploratory movements.

Authors:  Ludovic Seifert; Romain Cordier; Dominic Orth; Yoan Courtine; James L Croft
Journal:  PLoS One       Date:  2017-04-25       Impact factor: 3.240

Review 9.  Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing.

Authors:  Dominic Orth; Graham Kerr; Keith Davids; Ludovic Seifert
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2017-10-06

10.  Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing.

Authors:  Marlene H van Knobelsdorff; Nikki G van Bergen; John van der Kamp; Ludovic Seifert; Dominic Orth
Journal:  Scand J Med Sci Sports       Date:  2020-08-30       Impact factor: 4.221

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  4 in total

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3.  Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing.

Authors:  Marlene H van Knobelsdorff; Nikki G van Bergen; John van der Kamp; Ludovic Seifert; Dominic Orth
Journal:  Scand J Med Sci Sports       Date:  2020-08-30       Impact factor: 4.221

Review 4.  The Ecological Dynamics Framework: An Innovative Approach to Performance in Extreme Environments: A Narrative Review.

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