| Literature DB >> 29892251 |
Ludovic Seifert1, Dominic Orth2, Bruno Mantel3, Jérémie Boulanger4, Romain Hérault5, Matt Dicks6.
Abstract
The aim of this study was to investigate how the affordances of an indoor climbing wall changed for intermediate climbers following a period of practice during which hold orientation was manipulated within a learning and transfer protocol. The learning protocol consisted of four sessions, in which eight climbers randomly ascended three different routes of fixed absolute difficulty (5c on the French scale), as fluently as possible. All three routes were 10.3 m in height and composed of 20 hand-holds at the same locations on an artificial climbing wall; only hold orientations were altered: (i) a horizontal-edge route (H) was designed to afford horizontal hold grasping, (ii) a vertical-edge route (V) afforded vertical hold grasping, and (iii), a double-edge route (D) was designed to afford both horizontal and vertical hold grasping. Five inertial measurement units (IMU) (3D accelerometer, 3D gyroscope, 3D magnetometer) were attached to the hip, feet and forearms to analyze the vertical acceleration and direction (3D unitary vector) of each limb and hip in ambient space during the entire ascent. Segmentation and classification processes supported detection of movement and stationary phases for each IMU. Depending on whether limbs and/or hip were moving, a decision tree distinguished four states of behavior: stationary (absence of limb and hip motion), hold exploration (absence of hip motion but at least one limb in motion), hip movement (hip in motion but absence of limb motion) and global motion (hip in motion and at least one limb in motion). Results showed that with practice, the learners decreased the relative duration of hold exploration, suggesting that they improved affordance perception of hold grasp-ability. The number of performatory movements also decreased as performance increased during learning sessions, confirming that participants' climbing efficacy improved as a function of practice. Last, the results were more marked for the H route, while the D route led to longer relative stationary duration and a shorter relative duration of performatory states. Together, these findings emphasized the benefit of manipulating task constraints to promote safe exploration during learning, which is particularly relevant in extreme sports involving climbing tasks.Entities:
Keywords: affordance; climbing; exploration; motor learning; perception
Year: 2018 PMID: 29892251 PMCID: PMC5985557 DOI: 10.3389/fpsyg.2018.00820
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Front Psychol ISSN: 1664-1078
Figure 1Location of the 20 hand-holds for the three routes. Adapted from Seifert et al. (2015).
Figure 2Orientation and shape of the holds for the three routes. The arrow indicates the preferential grasping allowed by the hold. Adapted from Seifert et al. (2015).
Figure 3Location of the five IMUs on the body.
Effect of route design on the climbing states (i.e., number of events and total relative duration of the state expressed in % of the whole ascent duration).
| Horizontal | 19.7 ± 5.0 | 26.1 ± 5.7 |
| Vertical | 27.8 ± 6.2 | 31.3 ± 5.1 |
| Dual | 30.3 ± 4.3 | 34.2 ± 4.0 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.001 | 0.027 | |
| 0.92 | 0.66 | |
| Horizontal | 11.8 ± 1.4 | 5.4 ± 1.0 |
| Vertical | 16.9 ± 2.3 | 5.8 ± 1.0 |
| Dual | 19.4 ± 2.3 | 6.9 ± 1.2 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.01 | ||
| 0.78 | ||
| Horizontal | 7.8 ± 2.5 | 10.6 ± 1.6 |
| Vertical | 10.9 ± 3.3 | 12.0 ± 1.8 |
| Dual | 11.3 ± 2.6 | 11.2 ± 1.4 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.017 | ||
| 0.74 | ||
| Horizontal | 6.3 ± 1.2 | 5.7 ± 1.1 |
| Vertical | 8.4 ± 1.6 | 6.3 ± 0.7 |
| Dual | 10.0 ± 1.0 | 8.3 ± 0.6 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.003 | ||
| 0.86 | ||
| Horizontal | 16.7 ± 1.4 | 52.2 ± 7.3 |
| Vertical | 22.6 ± 2.6 | 44.4 ± 6.3 |
| Dual | 25.3 ± 2.5 | 39.4 ± 4.7 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.006 | 0.029 | |
| 0.82 | 0.69 | |
Post-hoc tests showing significant differences between the Dual route and the Horizontal route.
Post-hoc tests showing significant differences between the Vertical route and the Horizontal route.
Effect of practice on number of falls, ascent duration and jerk coefficient.
| 1 | 4.1 ± 1.5 | 120.8 ± 13.8 | 3.07 × 1013 ± 1.28 × 1012 |
| 2 | 2.7 ± 1.1 | 100.9 ± 10.2 | 1.73 × 1013 ± 9.71 × 1011 |
| 3 | 1.4 ± 0.9 | 87.4 ± 8.8 | 9.94 × 1012 ± 4.71 × 1011
|
| 4 | 0 | 84.6 ± 6.3 | 4.21 × 1012 ± 2.78 × 1011
|
| ANOVA | |||
| 0.047 | 0.04 | 0.031 | |
| 0.77 | 0.85 | 0.52 |
Post-hoc tests showing significant differences with the first trial.
Effect of practice on the climbing states (i.e., number of events and total relative duration of the state expressed in % of the whole ascent duration).
| 1 | 27.9 ± 5.7 | 31.6 ± 4.5 |
| 2 | 28.4 ± 5.6 | 28.2 ± 4.8 |
| 3 | 22.5 ± 4.6 | 32.0 ± 5.0 |
| 4 | 21.3 ± 3.7 | 30.3 ± 5.9 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.022 | ||
| 0.62 | ||
| 1 | 18.0 ± 3.2 | 6.2 ± 1.6 |
| 2 | 17.3 ± 3.3 | 7.4 ± 2.1 |
| 3 | 15.3 ± 1.6 | 5.0 ± 0.9 |
| 4 | 13.6 ± 1.4 | 5.4 ± 1.1 |
| 1 | 11.0 ± 2.4 | 13.3 ± 1.8 |
| 2 | 10.6 ± 3.2 | 11.0 ± 1.9 |
| 3 | 8.9 ± 2.7 | 9.3 ± 2.1 |
| 4 | 9.6 ± 2.7 | 8.1 ± 2.2 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.027 | ||
| 0.66 | ||
| 1 | 8.9 ± 1.4 | 6.5 ± 0.8 |
| 2 | 7.1 ± 1.1 | 5.6 ± 0.7 |
| 3 | 9.2 ± 1.4 | 7.8 ± 1.1 |
| 4 | 8.7 ± 1.3 | 7.2 ± 0.9 |
| 1 | 23.2 ± 3.5 | 42.4 ± 5.5 |
| 2 | 22.6 ± 3.2 | 47.6 ± 5.9 |
| 3 | 21.4 ± 1.2 | 45.9 ± 4.9 |
| 4 | 19.0 ± 1.3 | 45.5 ± 6.1 |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.029 | ||
| 0.65 | ||
Post-hoc tests showing significant differences with the first trial.
Figure 4Example for one participant of the climbing states time series for the right hand (R. hand), the left hand (L. hand), the right foot (R. foot), the left foot (L. foot) and the full body state based on the decision tree designed by Boulanger et al. (2016). The four panels exemplified (by red dots) the lower hold exploratory movements on the H route (Left) than on the Dual route (Right), and the decrease of hold exploratory movements from trial 1 (Top) to trial 4 (Down).
Figure 5Differences between the transfer test and the three routes performed during the learning protocol concerning the number of events of each of the five climbing states. *Simple contrast tests showing significant differences between the transfer test and the fourth session of each route.
Figure 6Differences between the transfer test and the three routes performed during the learning protocol concerning the relative duration of each of the five climbing states. *Simple contrast tests showing significant differences between the transfer test and the fourth session of each route.
Differences between the transfer test and the three routes performed during the learning protocol concerning the perception of the route approach.
| Horizontal | 5.2 ± 1.2 | |
| Vertical | 4.5 ± 1.3 | |
| Dual | 4.2 ± 1.2 | |
| Transfer | 3.5 ± 1.0 | |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.004 | ||
| 0.92 | ||
| Horizontal | 5.3 ± 0.9 | |
| Vertical | 4.4 ± 1.3 | |
| Dual | 4.2 ± 1.3 | |
| Transfer | 3.2 ± 1.3 | |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.019 | ||
| 0.84 | ||
| Horizontal | 5.0 ± 1.6 | |
| Vertical | 4.8 ± 1.5 | |
| Dual | 4.4 ± 1.5 | |
| Transfer | 3.0 ± 1.1 | |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.028 | ||
| 0.81 | ||
| Horizontal | 4.8 ± 1.0 | |
| Vertical | 4.5 ± 1.2 | |
| Dual | 4.4 ± 1.5 | |
| Transfer | 3.0 ± 1.3 | |
| ANOVA | ||
| 0.003 | ||
| 0.93 |
significant different with transfer test.
Simple contrast tests showing significant differences between the transfer test and the fourth session of each route.