Literature DB >> 33770128

Upper body rate of force development and maximal strength discriminates performance levels in sport climbing.

Nicolay Stien1, Vegard Albert Vereide1, Atle Hole Saeterbakken1, Espen Hermans1, Matthew Peter Shaw1, Vidar Andersen1.   

Abstract

The aim of this study was to assess and compare the maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced and elite climbers using several different methods for calculating RFD. Fifty-seven male climbers (17 intermediate, 25 advanced, and 15 elite) performed isometric pull-ups on a climbing-specific hold while the RFD was calculated using several absolute (50, 100, 150, 200, and 250 ms from onset of force) and relative time periods (25, 50, 75, 95, and 100% of time to peak force). The maximal force was higher among elite climbers compared to advanced (ES = 1.78, p < 0.001) and intermediate climbers (ES = 1.77, p < 0.001), while no difference was observed between intermediate and advanced climbers (P = 0.898). The elite group also showed higher RFD than the other two groups at all relative time periods (ES = 1.02-1.58, p < 0.001-0.002), whereas the absolute time periods only revealed differences between the elite vs. the other groups at 50, 100 and 150 ms from the onset of force (ES = 0.72-0.84, p = 0.032-0.040). No differences in RFD were observed between the intermediate and advanced groups at any time period (p = 0.942-1.000). Maximal force and RFD, especially calculated using the longer periods of the force curve, may be used to distinguish elite climbers from advanced and intermediate climbers. The authors suggest using relative rather than absolute time periods when analyzing the RFD of climbers.

Entities:  

Year:  2021        PMID: 33770128      PMCID: PMC7997018          DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0249353

Source DB:  PubMed          Journal:  PLoS One        ISSN: 1932-6203            Impact factor:   3.240


  31 in total

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Review 2.  Physiology of difficult rock climbing.

Authors:  Phillip B Watts
Journal:  Eur J Appl Physiol       Date:  2004-02-17       Impact factor: 3.078

Review 3.  Contribution of elastic tissues to the mechanics and energetics of muscle function during movement.

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4.  Effect of an on-sight lead on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing.

Authors:  Nick Draper; Glenys A Jones; Simon Fryer; Chris Hodgson; Gavin Blackwell
Journal:  J Sports Sci Med       Date:  2008-12-01       Impact factor: 2.988

5.  Electrical and mechanical response of finger flexor muscles during voluntary isometric contractions in elite rock-climbers.

Authors:  Fabio Esposito; Eloisa Limonta; Emiliano Cè; Massimiliano Gobbo; Arsenio Veicsteinas; Claudio Orizio
Journal:  Eur J Appl Physiol       Date:  2008-10-01       Impact factor: 3.078

6.  Rate of force development and maximal force: reliability and difference between non-climbers, skilled and international climbers.

Authors:  Guillaume Levernier; Guillaume Laffaye
Journal:  Sports Biomech       Date:  2019-04-30       Impact factor: 2.832

7.  Haemodynamic kinetics and intermittent finger flexor performance in rock climbers.

Authors:  S Fryer; L Stoner; A Lucero; T Witter; C Scarrott; T Dickson; M Cole; N Draper
Journal:  Int J Sports Med       Date:  2014-09-24       Impact factor: 3.118

8.  Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.

Authors:  Michail Lubomirov Michailov; Jiří Baláš; Stoyan Kolev Tanev; Hristo Stoyanov Andonov; Jan Kodejška; Lee Brown
Journal:  Res Q Exerc Sport       Date:  2018-03-26       Impact factor: 2.500

9.  Neuromuscular performance of explosive power athletes versus untrained individuals.

Authors:  Neale A Tillin; Pedro Jimenez-Reyes; Matthew T G Pain; Jonathan P Folland
Journal:  Med Sci Sports Exerc       Date:  2010-04       Impact factor: 5.411

Review 10.  Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing.

Authors:  Dominic Orth; Graham Kerr; Keith Davids; Ludovic Seifert
Journal:  Front Psychol       Date:  2017-10-06
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  3 in total

1.  Differences in Upper-Body Peak Force and Rate of Force Development in Male Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite Sport Climbers.

Authors:  Vegard Vereide; Vidar Andersen; Espen Hermans; Jarle Kalland; Atle Hole Saeterbakken; Nicolay Stien
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2022-06-28

Review 2.  Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing-A Mini-Review.

Authors:  Nicolay Stien; Atle Hole Saeterbakken; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2022-03-04

3.  The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance.

Authors:  Espen Hermans; Atle H Saeterbakken; Vegard Vereide; Ivar S O Nord; Nicolay Stien; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2022-04-27
  3 in total

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