Literature DB >> 31038051

Rate of force development and maximal force: reliability and difference between non-climbers, skilled and international climbers.

Guillaume Levernier1,2, Guillaume Laffaye1,2.   

Abstract

The goal of this study was to assess (i) test-retest reliability between sessions and within sessions, and (ii) the difference among three skill levels (international n = 12, skilled n = 10 and non-climbers n = 9) for finger flexor maximal force (Fmax) and rate of force development (RFD) at different time scales. Each climber performed a maximal finger flexion on a dynamometer in two different conditions: half crimp and slope crimp. The inter-session revealed no difference with low to high correlation from 0.56 to 0.94. Intra-session reliability reveals intraclass correlation ranging from 0.40 to 0.98 for all groups. The coefficients of variation ranged from 7.77% to 28.34% for RFD and 2.90% to 9.99% for Fmax. Maximal force, expressed as an absolute or normalised value, reveals a significant difference between all samples (22.11% difference between international and 38.58% between skilled and non-climbers). Finally, the difference in RFD200ms and RFD95% among the three groups suggests that the practice of intensive climbing causes many changes in neural and structural factors. Last, RFD200ms and RFD95% are highly reliable and can be used to discriminate samples, suggesting that these variables could be used in monitoring training.

Entities:  

Keywords:  Finger; climbing; isometric contractions; strength

Year:  2019        PMID: 31038051     DOI: 10.1080/14763141.2019.1584236

Source DB:  PubMed          Journal:  Sports Biomech        ISSN: 1476-3141            Impact factor:   2.832


  8 in total

1.  Differences in Upper-Body Peak Force and Rate of Force Development in Male Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite Sport Climbers.

Authors:  Vegard Vereide; Vidar Andersen; Espen Hermans; Jarle Kalland; Atle Hole Saeterbakken; Nicolay Stien
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2022-06-28

2.  Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers.

Authors:  Nicolay Stien; Helene Pedersen; Vegard A Vereide; Atle H Saeterbakken; Espen Hermans; Jarle Kalland; Brad J Schoenfeld; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  J Sports Sci Med       Date:  2021-05-25       Impact factor: 2.988

3.  The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers.

Authors:  Nicolay Stien; Tor Frithjof Frøysaker; Espen Hermans; Vegard Albert Vereide; Vidar Andersen; Atle Hole Saeterbakken
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2021-04-22

4.  Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers.

Authors:  Nicolay Stien; Atle Hole Saeterbakken; Espen Hermans; Vegard Albert Vereide; Elias Olsen; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  PLoS One       Date:  2019-09-19       Impact factor: 3.240

5.  Effect of bilateral contraction on the ability and accuracy of rapid force production at submaximal force level.

Authors:  Yoichi Ohta
Journal:  PLoS One       Date:  2021-02-18       Impact factor: 3.240

6.  Upper body rate of force development and maximal strength discriminates performance levels in sport climbing.

Authors:  Nicolay Stien; Vegard Albert Vereide; Atle Hole Saeterbakken; Espen Hermans; Matthew Peter Shaw; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  PLoS One       Date:  2021-03-26       Impact factor: 3.240

Review 7.  Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing-A Mini-Review.

Authors:  Nicolay Stien; Atle Hole Saeterbakken; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2022-03-04

8.  The Effects of 10 Weeks Hangboard Training on Climbing Specific Maximal Strength, Explosive Strength, and Finger Endurance.

Authors:  Espen Hermans; Atle H Saeterbakken; Vegard Vereide; Ivar S O Nord; Nicolay Stien; Vidar Andersen
Journal:  Front Sports Act Living       Date:  2022-04-27
  8 in total

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