| Literature DB >> 28149428 |
Mariusz Ozimek1, Robert Staszkiewicz2, Robert Rokowski3, Arkadiusz Stanula4.
Abstract
The present study was designed to determine which types of specific tests provide an effective evaluation of strength and endurance in highly trained competitive sport climbers. The research process consisted of three basic components: the measurement of selected somatic characteristics of the climbers, the assessment of their physical conditioning, and a search for correlations between the anthropometric and "conditioning" variables on the one hand, and climber's performance on the other. The sample of subjects consisted of 14 experienced volunteer climbers capable of handling 7a- 8a+/b on-sight rock climbing grades. The strongest correlations (Spearman's rank) were found between climber's competence and the relative results of the finger strength test (r = 0.7); much lower, but still statistically significant coefficients were found between the level of competence and the results of the muscle endurance tests (r = 0.53 - 0.57). Climbers aspiring to attain an elite level must have strong finger and forearm muscles, but most of all, they must be capable of releasing their potential during specific motor capability tests engaging these parts of the body. The forearm muscles of elite climbers must also be very resistant to fatigue. Since highly trained athletes vary only slightly in body mass, this variable does not have a major effect on their performance during strength and endurance tests.Entities:
Keywords: biomechanics; physical performance; rock climbing; training
Year: 2016 PMID: 28149428 PMCID: PMC5260593 DOI: 10.1515/hukin-2016-0027
Source DB: PubMed Journal: J Hum Kinet ISSN: 1640-5544 Impact factor: 2.193
Picture 1The specific test of finger strength (refer to abbreviation: LEDGE 1, LEDGE 2, HANG 1, HANG 2).
Picture 2The arm strength test (refer to abbreviation: BAR 1, BAR 2, PULL UPS).
Statistical characteristics of somatic variables, muscle strength and endurance in the studied climbers (n = 14)
| Variables | m.u. | Mean ± SD | min | max | CV |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MASS | kg | 65.42 ± 2.28 | 61 | 69 | 3.5 |
| FMAX R | N | 655 ± 62.5 | 553 | 772 | 10.0 |
| FW R | N/kg | 10.01 ± 0.96 | 8.5 | 12.16 | 9.6 |
| FMAX L | N | 640 ± 62.0 | 567 | 754 | 9.7 |
| FW L | N/kg | 9.78 ± 0.91 | 8.73 | 11.72 | 9.3 |
| LEDGE 1 | kg | 137.32 ± 31.4 | 91 | 166 | 22.9 |
| LEDGE 2 | kg/kg | 2.09 ± 0.46 | 1.49 | 2.5 | 22.0 |
| BAR 1 | kg | 111 ± 8.56 | 96 | 132 | 7.7 |
| BAR 2 | kg/kg | 1.69 ± 0.12 | 1.55 | 2 | 7.1 |
| F’MAX R | N/s | 5549 ± 1369 | 3280 | 8223 | 24.7 |
| F’MAX L | N/s | 4942 ± 1529 | 3420 | 7834 | 30.9 |
| t FMAX 50% | s | 103 ± 33.9 | 71.5 | 189 | 33.0 |
| HANG 1 | s | 84.9 ± 19.8 | 50 | 133 | 23.4 |
| HANG 2 | s | 108.6 ± 32.4 | 65 | 163 | 29.9 |
| HANG | s | 240.7 ± 71.8 | 148 | 340 | 29.8 |
| PULL UPS | n | 22.9 ± 3.4 | 17 | 30 | 14.7 |
Statistical significance: ‡ p<0.001, † p<0.01, * p<0.05
– body mass [kg]; - maximal grip strength (right and left hands) [N];
– relative grip strength (right and left hands) [N/kg];
– maximum muscle force development (right and left hands) [N/s];
– maximal strength of the fingers (hang from a 2.5 cm wide ledge) [kg];
– relative strength of the fingers (hang from a 2.5 cm wide ledge) [kg/kg];
– maximal strength of arm muscles (hang from a bar) [kg];
– relative strength of arm muscles (hang from a bar) [kg/kg];
– muscle endurance (hang from a 2.5 cm wide ledge) [s];
– muscle endurance (hang from a 4.0 cm wide ledge) [s];
– muscle endurance (hang from a bar) [s];
– maximum number of pull-ups [n];
– muscle endurance (maintain a dynamometer grip force at 50% of Fmax) [s].
Pearson product moment correlations (r) between variables
| Variables | MASS | FMAX R | FW R | FMAX L | FW L | F’MAX R | F’MAX L | t FMAX 50% |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| FMAX R | 0.32 | |||||||
| FW R | -0.04 | |||||||
| FMAX L | 0.32 | 0.76 | ||||||
| FW L | -0.05 | 0.76 | ||||||
| F’MAX R | 0.09 | 0.35 | 0.33 | 0.48 | 0.46 | |||
| F’MAX L | 0.21 | 0.46 | 0.40 | 0.69 | 0.64 | 0.74 | ||
| t FMAX 50% | 0.13 | -0.06 | -0.11 | 0.02 | -0.04 | -0.22 | 0.14 | |
| LEDGE 1 | 0.42 | 0.40 | 0.27 | 0.61 | 0.48 | 0.33 | 0.52 | -0.01 |
| LEDGE 2 | 0.30 | 0.39 | 0.30 | 0.60* | 0.52 | 0.32 | 0.50 | -0.03 |
| HANG 1 | 0.05 | 0.09 | 0.08 | -0.05 | -0.05 | -0.46 | -0.14 | 0.28 |
| HANG | -0.24 | -0.20 | -0.12 | -0.05 | 0.03 | 0.08 | 0.01 | 0.22 |
| HANG 2 | -0.23 | -0.33 | -0.25 | -0.37 | -0.29 | -0.52 | -0.27 | 0.38 |
| BAR 1 | 0.41 | 0.44 | 0.30 | 0.45 | 0.31 | 0.34 | 0.41 | -0.13 |
| BAR 2 | -0.04 | 0.33 | 0.35 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.32 | 0.34 | -0.20 |
| PULL UPS | -0.36 | 0.26 | 0.41 | 0.06 | 0.20 | 0.07 | 0.13 | 0.01 |
Statistical significance: ‡ p<0.001, † p<0.01, * p<0.05
p<0.001
p<0.001
p<0.05
p<0.05
p<0.001
p<0.001
p<0.05
p<0.05
p<0.05
Spearman’s rank correlation coefficients (r) between variables
| Variables | LEDGE 1 | LEDGE 2 | HANG 1 | HANG | HANG 2 | BAR 1 | BAR 2 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LEDGE 2 | |||||||
| HANG 1 | 0.28 | 0.31 | |||||
| HANG | 0.51 | 0.57 | 0.32 | ||||
| HANG 2 | 0.13 | 0.18 | 0.77 | 0.60 | |||
| BAR 1 | 0.58 | 0.56 | 0.14 | 0.09 | -0.04 | ||
| BAR 2 | 0.44 | 0.47 | 0.13 | 0.22 | 0.07 | 0.90 | |
| PULL UPS | 0.12 | 0.18 | 0.33 | 0.15 | 0.29 | 0.34 | 0.54 |
Statistical significance: ‡ p<0.001, † p<0.01, * p<0.05
p<0.001
p<0.05
p<0.01
p<0.05
p<0.05
p<0.05
p<0.05
Coefficient rank size of climber’s competence with body mass, motor effects of strength and endurance character (n = 14)
| Variables | R | Variables | R |
|---|---|---|---|
| MASS | -0.23 | LEDGE 2 | 0.70 |
| FMAX R | -0.00 | LEDGE 1 | 0.53 |
| FW R | 0.02 | HANG 1 | 0.54 |
| FMAX L | 0.08 | HANG | 0.56 |
| FW L | 0.01 | HANGS 2 | 0.57 |
| F’MAX R | -0.05 | BAR 1 | -0.08 |
| F’MAX L | 0.32 | BAR 2 | 0.17 |
| t FMAX 50% | -0.12 | PULL UPS | 0.48 |
Statistical significance: ‡ p<0.001, † p<0.01, * p<0.05
p<0.001
p<0.05
p<0.05
p<0.05