| Literature DB >> 35011420 |
Brandon Aguiar1,2, Helena Carmo2, Jorge Garrido3, José M Sousa Lobo1, Isabel F Almeida1.
Abstract
Polyphenols are a large family of natural compounds widely used in cosmetic products due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory beneficial properties and their ability to prevent UV radiation-induced oxidative stress. Since these compounds present chromophores and are applied directly to the skin, they can react with sunlight and exert phototoxic effects. The available scientific information on the phototoxic potential of these natural compounds is scarce, and thus the aim of this study was to evaluate the photoreactivity and phototoxicity of five phenolic antioxidants with documented use in cosmetic products. A standard ROS assay was validated and applied to screen the photoreactivity of the natural phenolic antioxidants caffeic acid, ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid (DOPAC), and rutin. The phototoxicity potential was determined by using a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), based on the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake phototoxicity test. Although all studied phenolic antioxidants absorbed UV/Vis radiation in the range of 290 to 700 nm, only DOPAC was able to generate singlet oxygen. The generation of reactive oxygen species is an early-stage chemical reaction as part of the phototoxicity mechanism. Yet, none of the studied compounds decreased the viability of keratinocytes after irradiation, leading to the conclusion that they do not have phototoxic potential. The data obtained with this work suggests that these compounds are safe when incorporated in cosmetic products.Entities:
Keywords: cosmetic products; keratinocytes; natural phenolic antioxidants; photoreactivity; photosafety; phototoxicity; polyphenols; reactive oxygen species; skin care
Mesh:
Substances:
Year: 2021 PMID: 35011420 PMCID: PMC8746784 DOI: 10.3390/molecules27010189
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Molecules ISSN: 1420-3049 Impact factor: 4.411
Figure 1Chemical structures of the natural polyphenols tested. (a) 3,4-Dihydroxyphenylacetic acid (DOPAC); (b) caffeic acid; (c) p-coumaric acid; (d) ferulic acid; (e) rutin.
Figure 2Absorption spectra obtained for each compound dissolved in DMSO at a concentration of 10 µg/mL. (a) Caffeic acid; (b) DOPAC; (c) ferulic acid; (d) p-coumaric acid, and (e) rutin.
Molar extinction coefficient (MEC) and maximum wavelength of the tested compounds at 10 µg/mL.
| Compounds | λmax (nm) | Absorbance | MEC (L mol−1 cm−1) |
|---|---|---|---|
| DOPAC | 286 | A286 = 0.246 | ℇ286 = 4129 |
| Caffeic acid | 331 | A331 = 1.112 | ℇ331 = 20,036 |
| 314 | A314 = 1.421 | ℇ314 = 23,335 | |
| Rutin | 363 | A363 = 0.366 | ℇ363 = 22,354 |
| Ferulic acid | 327 | A327 = 1.011 | ℇ327 = 19,635 |
Results obtained for the tested compounds using the ROS assay.
| Compounds |
1
|
| Photoreactivity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Caffeic Acid | −2 | 4 | Non-photoreactive |
| Ferulic Acid | −9 | −1 | Non-photoreactive |
| −3 | 2 | Non-photoreactive | |
| DOPAC | 38 | 4 | Photoreactive |
| Rutin | 15 | 12 | Non-photoreactive |
Figure 3Cell viability of HaCaT cells exposed to the tested compounds assessed using the Neutral Red assay. (▬) Irr−: Non-irradiated; (▬) Irr+: Irradiated plate. Data are presented as mean ± SD (n = 3) relative to solvent control.