| Literature DB >> 34188125 |
Saskia Mundry1, Gino Steinmetz1, Elizabeth J Atkinson2, Arndt F Schilling1, Volker R Schöffl3,4, Dominik Saul5,6.
Abstract
Improving climbing performance strongly depends upon effective training methods. Hangboard training is one of the most popular approaches to increase finger and forearm strength. Training protocols are based on maximizing weight or minimizing edges. We aimed to evaluate which of these protocols was superior. We prospectively analyzed 30 intermediate to advanced climbing athletes [Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) VI-VIII] and randomized them into three groups: control group C (Control, normal climbing training), hangboard group HE (Hang endurance, grips to hold for a determined time decreased every week), and hangboard group HW (Hang weight, + 1.25 kg weight were added each week to hold for a determined time). As endpoints, we measured the grip strength before and after an 8-week training protocol in seven different pinches. Over the 8-week training period, HW hangboard training significantly improved the climbers' grip strength compared to C [p = 0.032, effect size (ES) 0.36]. Maximizing weight improved the strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist significantly. HW was superior compared to C in terms of grip strength improvement in three out of seven pinches and overall grip strength. The overall changes in the HE group did not differ significantly from the C group. An 8-week training protocol with increasing weights (HW) significantly improved overall grip strength more than a regular climbing training without the use of a hangboard.Entities:
Year: 2021 PMID: 34188125 PMCID: PMC8241953 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-021-92898-2
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Sci Rep ISSN: 2045-2322 Impact factor: 4.379
Figure 1Grip strength post–pre training for each group individually and differences among groups. (A) In the C group. (B) HE group, and (C) HW group, the pairwise comparisons for each pinch are depicted. (D) A comparison between the groups showed that the HW group had improved pinch strength in I/II + III, I/II + III + IV and fist (I/II + III + IV + V) compared to the control (C) group. a differed significantly from C.
Mixed effects model with all 7 measurements sites.
| Estimate | Std. error | df | t value | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (Intercept) | 1.513 | 0.567 | 49.4 | 2.67 | 0.010 |
| Pre | − 0.204 | 0.023 | 737.5 | − 8.70 | < 0.001 |
| Non-dom | − 0.122 | 0.173 | 732.1 | − 0.71 | 0.481 |
| pinch.I.III | 0.218 | 0.318 | 728.5 | 0.69 | 0.492 |
| pinch.I.IV | − 0.198 | 0.321 | 730.6 | − 0.62 | 0.538 |
| pinch.I.IIIandIV | 0.592 | 0.324 | 731.8 | 1.83 | 0.068 |
| pinch.I.IIandIII | 1.139 | 0.327 | 733.5 | 3.48 | 0.001 |
| pinch.I.II.and.III.and.IV | 1.198 | 0.339 | 739.1 | 3.53 | < 0.001 |
| Fist | 6.861 | 0.829 | 747.5 | 8.28 | < 0.001 |
| HE versus C | 0.577 | 0.701 | 26.5 | 0.82 | 0.417 |
| HW versus C | 1.641 | 0.724 | 26.6 | 2.27 | 0.032 |
Interaction group versus pinch.
| Site | Group | Estimate | Std. error | df | t value | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| fist | HE versus C | 1.413 | 0.859 | 58.9 | 1.65 | 0.105 |
| fist | HW versus C | 2.306 | 0.891 | 60.0 | 2.59 | 0.012 |
| pinch.I.II | HE versus C | 0.408 | 0.858 | 58.6 | 0.48 | 0.636 |
| pinch.I.II | HW versus C | 0.909 | 0.885 | 58.6 | 1.03 | 0.309 |
| pinch.I.II.and.III.and.IV | HE versus C | 0.105 | 0.859 | 58.9 | 0.12 | 0.904 |
| pinch.I.II.and.III.and.IV | HW versus C | 2.109 | 0.886 | 58.7 | 2.38 | 0.021 |
| pinch.I.III | HE versus C | 0.775 | 0.857 | 58.5 | 0.90 | 0.370 |
| pinch.I.III | HW versus C | 1.229 | 0.886 | 58.7 | 1.39 | 0.171 |
| pinch.I.IIIandIV | HE versus C | 0.178 | 0.858 | 58.6 | 0.21 | 0.836 |
| pinch.I.IIIandIV | HW versus C | 1.646 | 0.886 | 58.6 | 1.86 | 0.068 |
| pinch.I.IIandIII | HE versus C | 0.659 | 0.858 | 58.6 | 0.77 | 0.446 |
| pinch.I.IIandIII | HW versus C | 2.213 | 0.886 | 58.6 | 2.50 | 0.015 |
| pinch.I.IV | HE versus C | 0.512 | 0.857 | 58.5 | 0.60 | 0.553 |
| pinch.I.IV | HW versus C | 1.091 | 0.886 | 58.6 | 1.23 | 0.223 |
Effect size in all groups for the pre- and posttest result comparisons.
| Pinch | Group 1 (HW) | Group 2 (HE) | Group 3 (C) | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Effect size | Effect size | Effect size | ||||
| Pinch I/II | 0.30 | Small | 0.20 | Trivial | 0.03 | Trivial |
| Pinch I/III | 0.31 | Small | 0.28 | Small | 0.03 | Trivial |
| Pinch I/IV | 0.39 | Small | 0.30 | Small | 0.08 | Trivial |
| Pinch I/III + IV | 0.39 | Small | 0.02 | Trivial | 0.01 | Trivial |
| Pinch I/II + III | 0.59 | Medium | 0.24 | Small | 0.03 | Trivial |
| Pinch I/II + III + IV | 0.46 | Small | − 0.04 | Trivial | 0.04 | Trivial |
| Fist (= I/II + III + IV + V) | 0.11 | Trivial | 0.07 | Trivial | − 0.01 | Trivial |
Figure 2Expected grip strength improvement for each training group. For an initial grip strength of 10 kg in the pinch I/II, the predicted values for each pinch and all three groups are represented within the (A) dominant and (B) non-dominant hand.