| Literature DB >> 32276341 |
Xeber Iruretagoiena-Urbieta1,2, Javier De la Fuente-Ortiz de Zarate3, Marc Blasi4, Felix Obradó-Carriedo5, Andoni Ormazabal-Aristegi6, Elena Sonsoles Rodríguez-López1.
Abstract
The ability of finger flexors to generate force has been studied in relation to climbing performance. However, not much attention has been paid to the decrease in finger grip force in relation to annular pulley injuries. The purpose of the present study was to determine if an injured annular pulley implies a finger flexor force decrease, as well as its relation to clinical and sonographic changes. We performed an observational study in 39 rock climbers with A2 or A4 pulley injuries to the 3rd or 4th fingers. The variables considered were pain upon palpation, ultrasound tendon-bone distance, and finger grip strength decrease. Three rock climbing grip types were considered: the one finger crimp, open crimp, and close crimp. Injured rock climbers presented a decrease in finger grip strength compared to non-injured controls when performing a one finger crimp (p < 0.001). There exists a significant correlation between a tendon-bone distance at the level of the injured pulley and a decreased finger grip strength measured by performing a one finger crimp (p = 0.006). A decrease in finger grip strength could be considered in the diagnostic and follow-up process of A2 and A4 pulley injuries to the 3rd and 4th fingers.Entities:
Keywords: annular pulley; climber; diagnosis; grip; rupture; strength; tendon–bone distance; ultrasound
Year: 2020 PMID: 32276341 PMCID: PMC7235872 DOI: 10.3390/diagnostics10040206
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Diagnostics (Basel) ISSN: 2075-4418
Figure 1High-resolution ultrasound image of a complete A2 pulley rupture. The arrow indicates the tendon–bone distance (TBD) in the midpoint of the proximal phalange.
Figure 2Bindar and grip types. (a) Bindar device. (b) One finger crimp. (c) Open crimp. (d) Close crimp.
Baseline epidemiological and general morphometric parameters.
| Characteristics | Group |
| Mean | SD—(95%CI) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Age (years) | Total sample | 39 | 33.46 | 8.94 (30.56–36.36) |
| 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 35.75 | 9.12 (29.95–41.55) | |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 34.20 | 8.95 (27.79–40.61) | |
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 31.29 | 9.06 (22.90–39.67) | |
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 31.50 | 9.22 (24.90–38.10) | |
| Weight (kg) | Total sample | 39 | 68.15 | 10.46 (64.76–71.55) |
| 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 68.75 | 10.05 (61.70–73.70) | |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 67.70 | 8.39 (61.70–73.70) | |
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 75.71 | 10.24 (66.24–85.19) | |
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 62.60 | 10.89 (54.81–70.39) | |
| Height (cm) | Total sample | 39 | 174.62 | 7.09 (172.32–176.92) |
| 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 175.33 | 6.58 (171.15–179.52) | |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 173.80 | 6.54 (169.12–178.48) | |
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 177.14 | 4.22 (173.24–181.05) | |
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 172.80 | 9.73 (165.83–179.77) |
* SD, standard deviation; CI, confidence interval; +, positive test; −, negative test.
TBD and finger grip strength deficit percentages.
| Variable | Group |
| Mean | SD—(95%CI) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
| |||||
| TBD A2/A4 (mm) | 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 2.86 | 0.58 (2.48–3.23) | <0.001 |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 1.64 | 0.21 (1.48–1.79) | ||
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 2.51 | 0.45 (2.09–2.93) | ||
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 1.71 | 0.26 (1.51–1.90) | ||
| TBD increase % in comparison to the contralateral non-injured side | 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 201.34 | 67.50 (158.45–244.23) | |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 160.44 | 110.88 (81.11–239.76) | ||
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 155.66 | 44.50 (114.50–196.81) | ||
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 119.11 | 11.21 (111.09–127.13) | ||
|
| |||||
| Finger grip strength deficit % using a one finger crimp | 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 53.99 | 29.27 (35.39–72.58) | <0.001 |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 29.30 | 21.10 (14.21–44.40) | ||
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 16.71 | 7.17 (10.08–23.35) | ||
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 8.56 | 4.74 (5.17–11.95) | ||
| Finger grip strength deficit % using a close crimp | 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 19.95 | 20.40 (6.99–32.91) | |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 9.33 | 21.37 (−5.95–24.62) | ||
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 4.37 | 3.83 (0.82–7.92) | ||
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 10.49 | 6.85 (5.58–15.39) | ||
| Finger grip strength deficit % using an open crimp | 1 (pain +, TBD +) | 12 | 21.36 | 17.52 (10.23–32.50) | |
| 2 (pain +, TBD −) | 10 | 10.04 | 14.34 (−0.20–20.30) | ||
| 3 (pain −, TBD +) | 7 | 7.90 | 6.45 (1.93–13.86) | ||
| 4 (pain −, TBD −) | 10 | 5.89 | 4.16 (2.91–8.88) | ||
* one way ANOVA. SD, standard deviation; CI, confidence interval; +, positive test; −, negative test.
Figure 3Significant correlation between TBD and finger grip strength deficit percentage when performing a one finger crimp. X axis: the percentage of force deficit of the injured finger measured with a Bindar in Newtons. Y axis: the TBD of the injured finger measured in the longitudinal axis in millimeters.