Donald D Kasarda1. 1. Western Regional Research Center, Agricultural Research Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, 800 Buchanan Street, Albany, CA 94710, USA.
Abstract
In response to the suggestion that an increase in the incidence of celiac disease might be attributable to an increase in the gluten content of wheat resulting from wheat breeding, a survey of data from the 20th and 21st centuries for the United States was carried out. The results do not support the likelihood that wheat breeding has increased the protein content (proportional to gluten content) of wheat in the United States. Possible roles for changes in the per capita consumption of wheat flour and the use of vital gluten as a food additive are discussed.
In response to the suggestion that an increase in the incidence of celiac disease might be attributable to an increase in the gluten content of wheat resulting from wheat breeding, a survey of data from the 20th and 21st centuries for the United States was carried out. The results do not support the likelihood that wheat breeding has increased the protein content (proportional to gluten content) of wheat in the United States. Possible roles for changes in the per capita consumption of wheat flour and the use of vital gluten as a food additive are discussed.
There is recent evidence that the incidence
of celiac disease has
increased during the second half of the 20th century.[1−3] These studies provide evidence that the incidence is changing based
on the presence of tissue transglutaminase antibodies (a marker for
celiac disease) in selected sets of serum samples, although there
are no continuous data relating to the incidence of celiac disease
in the U.S. population on a year-by-year basis. In addition, there
is increasing interest in other gluten-related disorders: wheatallergy
and nonceliac gluten sensitivity.[4] It has
been speculated that the increase in celiac disease may have occurred
because of changes in wheat proteins that resulted from wheat breeding—mainly
an increase in the gluten content,[4] which
is directly proportional to protein content. Here, I will focus on
conventional breeding carried out for various purposes: to increase
or decrease gluten proteins or modify them in other ways, to increase
yield, to change kernel size or shape, or to improve disease or insect
resistance. My focus will be on the United States, and because there
are no GMO-type (genetically engineered) wheats used commercially
in the United States, direct genetic modification of the wheat genome
to increase protein content need not be considered. I will discuss
briefly the history of wheat from its domestication to modern times
and some factors that may have a bearing on the question of whether
or not the increase in celiac disease can be attributed to an increase
in the gluten content of modern wheats.
Wheat History
Diploid Wheat
Man first domesticated a diploid and
tetraploid wheats about 10000 years ago[5] (see timeline of Figure 1). One of the wheat
forms originally domesticated, sometimes called “einkorn,”
had only one genome, usually designated the A genome. Because the
vegetative tissues of plants contain two copies of the genome (hence,
diploid), the plant designation is AA. The diploid wild wheat that
was first domesticated is thought to have been , but other diploid wheat species may have been
involved as well. These diploid species are likely to have evolved
from a common line that included oats, barley, and rye (Figure 2). In the centuries following domestication, the
genome changed as a consequence of breeding and selection, which would
have introduced and fixed some new genes and/or controlling sequences
into the genome. Consequently, the domesticated modern diploid wheat
took on a significantly different character from the wild wheat. Wild
wheat species usually have tiny grains, often needle-like in appearance,
compared to the larger grains of modern wheats. When grown today,
the grains of these wild species usually have high protein contents,
in the 16–28% range.[6] Early farmers
and breeders probably selected for seed size (among other traits)—larger
grains being easier to recover from the plant during threshing. In
doing so, they inadvertently increased the starch content relative
to protein content; thus, the apparent seed protein percentage decreased.
The domesticated diploid wheat, (einkorn) was designated (genus Triticum, species monococcum) by Linnaeus in the 18th century.
The small amount of T. monococcum that is grown today
is used mostly for animal feed. In the early millennia following domestication,
the protein content of domesticated wheat was most likely steadily
declining because of selection for traits that had an inverse relationship
to protein percentage, such as seed size and starch content.
Figure 1
Events in evolution
in relation to the appearance of wheat (approximate
dates).
Figure 2
Divergence of a common line leading to the diploid progenitors
of wheat.
Events in evolution
in relation to the appearance of wheat (approximate
dates).Divergence of a common line leading to the diploid progenitors
of wheat.Throughout most of the 10000 years of wheat domestication
it was
not possible to measure the protein content of wheat grain. The concept
of protein as a unique substance was developed only about 250 years
ago, and it was not until 1883 when Johan Kjeldahl developed his method
for organic nitrogen determination that the stage was set for the
development of an accurate and moderately convenient method for determining
the protein content of wheat. Even so, the proper factor for converting
the nitrogen content of wheat grain to protein content was a subject
of debate throughout the early part of the 20th century. In the late
20th century, with the development of the near-infrared reflectance
(NIR) spectroscopy method for the determination of wheat protein content,
measurement of this quantity was greatly simplified. The gluten content
of wheat is approximately proportional to the protein content and
usually ranges between 70 and 75% of total protein content. Statements
in the literature, such as, “Since the first farmers, strains
of wheat have been selectively bred for their gluten content, and
the gluten content has progressively increased through time”[7] and “...the selection of wheat varieties
with higher gluten content has been a continuous process during the
past 10,000 years...”[4] are therefore
not correct. The earliest farmers were selecting for many traits,
but protein content was not one of them. However, with the development
of yeast-fermented (leavened) bread baking about 2000–5000
years ago (the date is not known with any precision), farmers may
have indirectly begun to select for protein content because leavened
bread requires a relatively high protein content (at present 11% is
considered somewhat minimal for bread making in the United States).
Polyploid Wheats: Tetraploids and Hexaploids
It is
likely that tetraploid wheat was domesticated about the same time
as diploid wheat.[5] The tetraploid wheats
have two genomes that, for vegetative tissues, are designated AABB
(hence, tetraploid) (Figure 3). Wheats with
more than one genome are known as polyploid wheats. (I will not attempt
a discussion of polyploid formation[8] here.)
The A genome of the tetraploid wheats is closely similar to that of T. monococcum, and the B genome is related to . When grown today, wild tetraploids
usually have protein contents in the range of 16–27%,[6] whereas domesticated tetraploids usually have
lower protein contents of about 10–12%. The wild tetraploids
are often designated , and the domesticated equivalents are classified as (sometimes ). T. turgidum has two subspecies/varieties,
one with the common name emmer and the other called durum. Emmer wheat is not free-threshing, which means that
there is a tightly adhering husk, or glume, that is difficult to remove
from the grains. Durum wheat is free-threshing, that is, the seeds
are readily released from the glumes. The main wheat of the Roman
empire was emmer, and its current form, now somewhat in vogue for
gourmet cooking, is usually known as farro. Durumwheats are now used mainly for pasta, although bread can be made from
durum wheat, and such bread is common in parts of Italy, such as the
Puglia region.
Figure 3
Combinations of diploid wheats leading to the polyploid
forms.
Combinations of diploid wheats leading to the polyploid
forms.The next step up in complexity was to hexaploid
wheat, which, for , consists of three genomes designated
A, B, and D. The A and B genomes of hexaploid wheats are nearly identical
to the A and B genomes of tetraploid wheat. The hexaploid wheats have
no wild equivalents, and the ABD hexaploids resulted from hybridization
of a cultivated (domesticated) emmer and a wild grass species known
as (9) (sometimes called goat grass) followed by polyploid formation
to give rise to a new species having three genomes designated AABBDD
in vegetative tissues (hence, hexaploid), as summarized in Figure 3 (heads of the diploid progenitor species are pictured
in Figure 4). The ABD hexaploid wheats are
free-threshing with the exception of speltwheat, which has tightly
adhering glumes. These hexaploids arose within a few thousand years
of the first wheat domestication.
Figure 4
Heads of (left to right) T. urartu (A genome), T. speltoides (B genome), and T. tauschii (D genome).
Heads of (left to right) T. urartu (A genome), T. speltoides (B genome), and T. tauschii (D genome).
Protein Content and Usage of Wheat Types
Most wheats
used for breadmaking are ABD hexaploid wheats with
“hard” endosperm texture, but there are hexaploid wheat
varieties/cultivars with “soft” texture that are used
mainly for pastry and cake baking. Hard wheats have been selected
for higher protein content than soft wheats and, for breadmaking,
higher protein content (about 12–14%) is usually desirable.
For the soft wheats, low protein is usually desirable, because it
is the starch rather than the protein that plays the more important
role in determining desirable pastry characteristics. Consequently,
soft wheats have mostly been selected for low protein content, which
usually falls in the range of 7–11%. All-purpose flour has
an intermediate range of protein, which makes it acceptable, but not
optimal, for most uses.There are few pertinent papers that
address the question of whether
or not the protein content of the U.S. wheat crop has increased over
time in the 20th century. Although adequate data may exist, much of
the literature from the first half of the 20th century seems not to
have been digitized. Information on the Kansas crops of 1949–2011
shows that for the main wheat type grown in Kansas (hard winter wheat,
used primarily for breadmaking), many crops fell within a protein
content range of 11–13%, with an unusual high of 14.1% in 1956
and an unusual low of 10.7 in 1961.[10] Some
papers from the first half of the 20th century[11] indicated protein contents ranging from 8.77 to 14.26%
for various samples of hard winter wheats. The 8.77% number appeared
to be an outlier, and there was no obvious deviation from the results
for protein content in the second half of the 20th century.[10]The hard spring wheats, grown mostly in
the Northern Plains, are
considered to be highly desirable for bread baking and tend to have
protein contents that in general exceed the usual protein contents
of winter wheats by about 2 percentage points. The protein contents
of hard spring wheats vary on average over a range of about 3–4
percentage points from year-to-year, usually falling in the 12–16%
range as exemplified by the data in Table 1 (extracted from Table 42 of Bailey[12]).
The basis for the higher protein content of the spring wheat from
the Northern Plains is probably related partly to genetics and partly
to growing conditions (environment). In the late 1920s, the protein
contents of the Northern Plains wheats were relatively low (about
13%), presumably due to normal to high levels of rainfall,[12] but increased to average levels of about 15%
in the 1930s, presumably due to drought conditions[12] (Table 1). The North Dakota Wheat
Commission reported[13] that, in 2009, the
hard red spring wheat crop “...yielded an average of 13.1 percent
(which) was well below the traditional level of more than 14%,”
and these protein contents are fairly typical of late 20th century
crops for the hard spring wheat region. Various studies have compared
the protein contents of wheat varieties from the early part of the
20th century with those of recent varieties.[14,15] When grown under comparable conditions, there was no difference
in the protein contents. Although nitrogen fertilization can have
strong effects on protein content for some wheat varieties,[16] the data do not seem to be in accord with the
likelihood that recent fertilization protocols have had a strong effect
on the protein contents of wheat grown in the United States.
Table 1
Average Percentages of Protein in
Spring Wheat Marketed through Minneapolis, MN, by Crop Years (Data
Excerpted from Table 42 of Reference (12))
crop year
no. of
samples
av protein (%)
standard deviation (σ)
av moisture content (%)
1925
33246
12.49
1.34
1926
26145
13.28
1.55
13.7
1927
63944
11.96
0.78
13.2
1928
49964
12.42
0.77
13.4
1929
37202
13.70
1.41
13.4
1930
52041
14.85
1.47
13.1
1931
17182
15.00
1.22
1932
45027
14.21
0.99
11.7
1933
28829
15.03
0.89
11.5
1934
12900
14.80
1.04
11.4
1935
28544
15.30
1.71
11.8
1936
16698
15.92
1.64
1937
12185
14.83
1.28
11.6
1938
13169
18.78
1.04
11.5
Interpretation of protein data is complicated by occasional
major
deviations from the more usual range. In 1938, the protein content
of spring wheat was exceptionally high (Table 1), averaging close to 19%; these years of exceptionally high protein
(or low protein) occur occasionally and are likely to result mainly
from environmental factors, rather than nitrogen fertilization or
wheat breeding. To maintain a uniformity of quality characteristics
from year to year, flour mills usually blend wheat flour that is intended
for commercial use by specific customers, for example, bakeries. Very
high protein content would usually be unsuitable for direct use, and
so high-protein wheat flours would usually be blended with lower protein
grain to achieve a more normal protein level before reaching the consumer.
The connection between celiac disease and wheat ingestion was not
made until 1950,[17] so that any variations
in the incidence of celiac disease prior to that would not have been
distinguished from gastrointestinal diseases in general. Even today,
data for the incidence of celiac disease that could be used to recognize
short-term variations are not available.With acknowledgment
that the data that are available were not suitable
for rigorous statistical interpretation, I found no evidence of any
obvious trend toward higher protein content for either winter or spring
wheats since the early part of the 20th century when the key ancestral
varieties of current bread wheats (of both winter and spring habits)
were introduced to the United States from Europe and Asia. Hard winter
and spring wheats are the predominant types grown in the United States,
mostly for bread baking, and these wheats will have the highest protein
contents. Soft wheats have significantly lower protein contents because
high protein contents are undesirable for many of the products made
from soft wheats.
Diet, Gluten Consumption, And Celiac Disease
Bread
is the most common wheat-based food in the United States,
although pastries and pasta are also widely consumed. Because bread
wheats in the United States range in protein content from about 11
to about 16% and pastry wheats from about 7 to 11%, the amounts of
gluten ingested might vary considerably from individual to individual
depending on diet choices. Economic Research Service (USDA-ARS-ERS)
statistics[18] indicate that the per person
per year intake of wheat flour (from all classes of wheat) reached
a high of 220 lb (100 kg) per person in about 1900, declining steadily
to a low of about 110 lb (50 kg) per person in 1970 and then gradually
rising to about 146 lb (66 kg) per person in 2000, with a slight decrease
occurring since 2000 to about 134 lb (61 kg) per person in 2008 (Figure 5). The per capita numbers of Figure 5 do not include U.S. wheat that is exported or used for animal
feed, but presumably include wheat flour used to produce vital gluten.
If I arbitrarily suggest that the average protein content of the wheat
crop (all types of wheat) would be around 11%, the gluten equivalent
of this U.S. grain/flour would be about 11.1 lb (5 kg) per person
(assuming a per capita intake of 134 lb of wheat flour and that 75%
of total flour protein would be gluten protein); if the average protein
content was closer to 12%, the gluten equivalent would be about 12.1
lb (5.1 kg) per capita.
Figure 5
U.S. per capita wheat flour use (figure redrawn
from ref (18) and data
supplied by G.
Vocke).
U.S. per capita wheat flour use (figure redrawn
from ref (18) and data
supplied by G.
Vocke).
Vital Gluten
Gluten fractionated from wheat flour by
washing starch granules
from a dough (sometimes called vital gluten) is often added to food
products to achieve improved product characteristics. About 80% of
the gluten used in the United States is imported—mainly from
Australia, the European Union, Canada, and China. The question of
how much vital gluten contributes to the total consumption of gluten
(wheat flour and wheat grain + vital gluten) is complicated by a lack
of accessible information about gluten production and imports for
the United States in recent years and by indications that imports
are rising rapidly. I make a crude estimate of what both factors might
be as follows: Gluten imports were 177 × 106 lb (80
× 106 kg)[19] in 1997 and
386 × 106 lb (175 × 106 kg) in 2007.[20] A two-point linear extrapolation to 2012 indicates
that imports would currently be 490 × 106 lb (222
× 106 kg). I assumed that the population of the United
States is 330 × 106, that vital gluten is 75% protein,
and that 80% of vital gluten is used for human food, to obtain a per
person (per year) intake of gluten of 0.9 lb (408 g). Following the
same approach, I estimate the gluten intake in 1977 to be 0.3 lb (136
g) per person. Thus, it appears that vital gluten consumption has
tripled since 1977. This increase is of interest because it is in
the time frame that fits with the predictions of an increase in celiac
disease. It is difficult to say whether or not this increase in vital
gluten consumption might contribute to an increase in the incidence
of celiac disease—particularly when compared to the much larger
intake of gluten from the consumption of wheat flour (11–12
lb/5.0–5.5 kg) per person). Similarly, I note that, although
wheat flour consumption seems to be decreasing slightly in recent
years (Figure 5), there was an increase in
the yearly consumption of wheat flour of about 35 lb (15.9 kg) per
person in the period from 1970 to 2000, which would correspond to
an additional 2.9 lb (1.3 kg) of gluten per person from that extra
flour intake, so that the 1970 intake of 9.1 pounds (4.1 kg) of gluten
(from flour or grain) had increased to 12 pounds (5.4 kg) in 2000.
It may be noted that whole wheat products, which are increasing in
consumption for health reasons (especially the higher fiber content),
often have vital gluten added to them to compensate for the negative
effects of the ground whole grain on quality factors, such as loaf
volume in breadmaking. This increase amounts to about 1.5–2.0
percentage points in product protein content, but the significance
(if any) of this increase is not known—it must be considered
in the context of other factors.There is evidence that the
D genome of bread wheat has more epitopes
active in celiac disease than the A and B genomes,[21] and some of these might be the most active epitopes. Consequently,
tetraploid wheats (mainly durum wheats used for pasta) and diploid
wheats, such as T. monococcum, are likely to be less
toxic to celiac patients than bread wheats. However, given that all
of these wheats, even T. monococcum,[22,23] have proteins with several of the potentially active sequences that
have been defined as being toxic for people with celiac disease, the
significance of the decreased number of epitopes in tetraploids and
diploids needs additional investigation.The estimates that
celiac disease is increasing in the United States
are based on studies that cover approximately the last half of the
20th century. Could this increase be attributed to the increased consumption
of wheat during that period, or to an increased use of vital gluten
in food products, rather than any systematic increase in the protein
content of wheat in the United States? Some diagnosed celiac patients
in remission exhibit changes to the intestinal epithelium characteristic
of celiac disease with a daily intake of 50–100 mg of gluten,
generally considered the minimal toxic dose of gluten.[24] The average slice of bread weighs approximately
40 g and contains about 2.4 g of protein—of that protein, about
1.8 g (1800 mg) would be gluten. It might seem, intuitively, that
the variations in protein content of wheat would not be a key factor
in the sensitization of potential celiac patients, given the seemingly
large excess of gluten in most wheat-containing products over the
minimum allowable intake. Nevertheless, one cannot rule out that the
process by which the immune system switches from tolerance of wheat
gluten protein to intolerance (celiac disease) might be dependent
on the total amount of gluten encountered.[25] Development of immune system tolerance to food proteins in general
is an as yet imperfectly understood process—as is the loss
of immune system tolerance to gluten proteins that is characteristic
of celiac disease.[26]In summary,
I have not found clear evidence of an increase in the
gluten content of wheat in the United States during the 20th century,
and if there has indeed been an increase in celiac disease during
the latter half of the century, wheat breeding for higher gluten content
does not seem to be the basis. Changes in the per capita intake of
wheat and gluten might play a role; both increased during the period
in question, but there is a lack of suitable data on the incidence
of celiac disease by year to test those possibilities. The normal
fluctuation of wheat crop protein content from year-to-year, being
equivalent to or larger than the intake of fractionated gluten, is
a complicating factor, but one that would be diminished by the practice
of flour blending. Other factors, such as per capita vital gluten
intake, variations in individual diets with regard to the amount and
types of wheat consumed, wheat genetics, and agronomic practices (such
as nitrogen fertilization), that affect protein content might contribute
to determining the “toxicity” of wheat for people with
the appropriate genetic susceptibility for celiac disease (mainly
those carrying the genes for particular proteins of the major histocompatibility
complex, DQ2 and DQ8); further research would be needed to evaluate
such factors.
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