| Literature DB >> 21437068 |
Andrija Kornhauser1, Sergio G Coelho, Vincent J Hearing.
Abstract
Hydroxy acids (HAs) represent a class of compounds which have been widely used in a number of cosmetic and therapeutic formulations in order to achieve a variety of beneficial effects for the skin. We review and discuss the most frequently used classes of these compounds, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, and describe their applications as cosmetic and therapeutic agents. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, in particular on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. Furthermore, we summarize the very limited number of studies dealing with the modifications evoked by topical application of products containing HAs on photocarcinogenesis. In spite of the large number of reports on the cosmetic and clinical effects of HAs, their biological mechanism(s) of action still require more clarification. Some of these mechanisms are discussed in this article along with important findings on the effect of HAs on melanogenesis and on tanning. We also emphasize the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Thus, HAs play an important role in cosmetic formulations, as well as in many dermatologic applications, such as in treating photoaging, acne, ichthyosis, rosacea, pigmentation disorders, and psoriasis.Entities:
Keywords: UV; cosmetics; erythema; glycolic acid; hydroxy acids; salicylic acid
Year: 2010 PMID: 21437068 PMCID: PMC3047947 DOI: 10.2147/CCID.S9042
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol ISSN: 1178-7015
Figure 1Structures of various compounds discussed.
Applications of hydroxy acids
| αHAs | Not mutagenic or carcinogenic, not reproductive or developmental toxins, not skin sensitizers | No alteration of photocarcinogenesis induced by SSR | Reduced Ca ion concentration in the epidermis disrupts cellular adhesions by removing Ca ions from the cell adhesions by chelation allowing for exfoliation; promoting cell growth and retarding cell differentiation |
| Glycolic acid | Increased SSR sensitivity in human skin | Increased epidermal proliferation in mice | Acceleration of collagen synthesis by fibroblasts and also modulation of matrix degradation and collagen synthesis through keratinocyte-released cytokines |
| PHA | Photoprotective (gluconolactone) | Function as a chelating agent and exhibits potency in scavenging free radicals | |
| βHA | – | – | – |
| SA | Enhances percutaneous penetration, not a photosensitizer, not phototoxic, no change in SSR sensitivity in human skin | Photoprotective, reducing the carcinogenicity of SSR | Acts at the level of transcription to downregulate the production of fibrinogen, fibronectin, and α-hemolysin virulence factors necessary for bacterial replication in host tissues |