Detergents with different chemical properties induce variable degree of cytotoxicity and mRNA expression of lipid-metabolizing enzymes and differentiation markers in cultured keratinocytes.

The knowledge how detergents with different chemical properties influence epidermal keratinocytes is sparse. In the present study, the effects of five detergents were examined with respect to cell-toxicity and mRNA expression of key-enzymes in barrier lipid production and keratinocyte differentiation markers. First, the LD(50) for each detergent were determined. Secondly, keratinocytes were exposed to sub-toxic concentrations and the mRNA expression was analysed by real-time PCR after 24 h exposure to the detergents. SLS and CAPB induced a concentration-dependent increase in the expression of enzymes producing cholesterol and ceramides, while transcripts of enzymes producing fatty acids were unaffected. SLES and cocoglucoside increased the expression of certain enzymes involved in cholesterol and fatty acid synthesis while sodium cocoamphoacetate (SCAA) stimulated expression of transcripts involved in fatty acid synthesis. The expression of differentiation markers were increased by SLS, SLES and CAPB, while SCAA and cocoglucoside exhibited no effect. The present findings show that detergents have variable effects on lipid synthesis and keratinocyte differentiation, which could partly explain their barrier destruction potential in vivo.