ATR-FTIR spectroscopy: a chemometric approach for studying the lipid organisation of the stratum corneum.

The barrier function of skin resides in the lipid components of the stratum corneum, particularly their spatial organisation. FTIR spectroscopy has already been used as a relevant tool to study this lipid organisation: IR vibration band shifts have been attributed to the variations in lipid organisation induced by temperature. Our study included a stratum corneum model, composed of the three main lipids: palmitic acid as an example of fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramide III as an example of ceramide. Different films with various ratios of these lipids were studied. In our analytical strategy, the interest of using a chemometric analysis of global data obtained from ATR-FTIR spectra to highlight the main interactions involved in the molecular organisation of lipids has been demonstrated. Two kinds of interaction between the three main lipids have been shown: a non polar interaction between the long hydrocarbon chains and a polar interaction as the hydrogen bonding between polar functional groups. By varying the lipid ratio, we have shown first that the relative importance of each interaction was modified, second, that the induced modification of organisation can be detected by chemometric analysis of the ATR-FTIR spectra. The role of each kind of lipid in the organisation has been discussed. In conclusion, associating the ATR-FTIR with chemometric treatment is a promising tool: firstly, to understand the consequence of lipid relative compositions on the structural organisation of the stratum corneum, secondly, to show the relationship between lipid organisation and percutaneous penetration data. Indeed, this methodology will be transposed to in vivo studies with IR measurements through a probe.