pH, cholesterol sulfate, and fatty acids affect the stratum corneum lipid organization.

Lipid mixtures prepared from cholesterol (CHOL), isolated ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids can serve as attractive tools to study the role various stratum corneum (SC) lipids or microenvironmental conditions play in the SC lipid organization, as the phase behavior in these mixtures and in SC are similar: two lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm are present. Because pH and cholesterol sulfate (CSO4) gradients exist in SC and may affect the local SC lipid organization, the effects of pH and CSO4 on lipid phase behavior was examined. X-ray diffraction studies with CHOL:CER mixtures revealed that the lamellar ordering at pH 5 and 7.4 were similar: both the short and the long periodicity phases were present. Upon addition of free fatty acids the phase behavior became pH dependent; the long periodicity phase being more dominant at pH 7.4 than at pH 5. Similar observations have been made upon addition of CSO4. Furthermore, only in the presence of CSO4 did phase-separated CHOL disappear, indicating that CHOL completely dissolves in the lamellar phases. A major phase change from an hexagonal to an orthorhombic lateral packing has been observed in the presence of free fatty acids. Furthermore, in the presence of CSO4 next to orthorhombic also liquid lateral packing could be detected. In contrast to lamellar ordering, changes in pH did not affect the lateral packing in any of the lipid mixtures studied.