Organization of stratum corneum lipids in relation to permeability: influence of sodium lauryl sulfate and preheating.

The role of the structural organization of intercorneocyte lipids in the barrier function of human stratum corneum was evaluated by treatment with heat and sodium lauryl sulfate. Measurement of transepidermal water loss in treated samples was used to quantify variations in stratum corneum permeability. Thermodynamic transition of lamellar lipids and their degree of organization were evaluated by differential scanning calorimetry and small-angle X-ray diffraction, respectively. Progressively preheating stratum corneum samples from 75 degrees C to 90 degrees C increased stratum corneum permeability to water vapor, while the fusion temperature of lamellar lipids and the intensity of the X-ray diffraction peaks of the polar lipids decreased. Sodium lauryl sulfate induced similar variations of these three parameters. These results support the hypothesis that, in addition to the chemical nature of intercorneocyte lipids, their structural arrangement and thermodynamic properties play an important role in the barrier function of the stratum corneum to water vapor.