Human epidermal lipids: characterization and modulations during differentiation.

Using thin-layer chromatography and glass capillary gas-liquid chromatography, we have quantitated the lipids in the germinative, differentiating, and fully cornified layers in human epidermis. As previously noted in nonhuman species, we found progressive depletion of phospholipids coupled with repletion of sterols and sphingolipids during differentiation. The sphingolipids, present only in small quantities in the lower epidermis, accounted for about 20% of the lipid in the stratum corneum, and were the major repository for the long-chain fatty acids that predominate in the outer epidermis. Although the absolute quantities of sphingolipids increased in the outer epidermis, the glycolipid:ceramide ratio diminished in the stratum corneum, and glycolipids virtually disappeared in the outer stratum corneum. Squalene and n-alkanes were distributed evenly in all epidermal layers, suggesting that these hydrocarbons are not simply of environmental or pilosebaceous origin. Cholesterol sulfate, previously considered only a trace metabolite in epidermis, was found in significant quantities, with peak levels immediately beneath the stratum corneum in the stratum granulosum. These studies: 1) provide new quantitative data about human epidermal lipids; 2) implicate certain classes of lipids for specific functions of the stratum corneum; and, 3) shed light on possible product-precursor relationships of these lipids.