| Literature DB >> 36156628 |
Chensihui Xiong1,2, Tianming Ding2, Jie Liu2, Ou Yi3, Xiaoping Ding2, Yun Xie1.
Abstract
Plant components from extracts of Sophora flavescens, rhodiola, ginseng, Centella asiatica, and tea play important roles in skin whitening, moisturizing, anti-aging, sun protection, anti-inflammation, antiseptic, bacteriostatic, and other effects of cosmetics. At present, no relevant standard methods have been established to detect the addition amounts of plant extracts in cosmetics. In addition, plant extracts listed in product labels may be undetectable due to their addition in trace quantities and the lack of technical support. Therefore, a quantitative method for the simultaneous determination of 22 functional components in cosmetics was established by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-linear ion trap/orbitrap high resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-LTQ/Orbitrap MS). Target compounds were extracted with methanol from samples using ultrasonic extraction, and then separated on a C18 column (100 mm × 2.1 mm, 1.8 μm) with gradient elution of 0.1% (v/v) formic acid aqueous solution (A) and acetonitrile (B). The gradient elution program were as follows: 0-5 min, 5%B-8%B; 5-25 min, 8%B-60%B; 25-35 min, 60%B-80%B; 35-36 min, 80%B-5%B; 36-45 min, 5%B. The flow rate was 0.3 mL/min and the injection volume was 5 μL. Accurate masses of precursor ions were used to detect cosmetic functional components in positive ionization mode. The fragment ions obtained by higher energy collisional dissociation were used for confirmation of the functional components. Each compound showed good linearity. The limits of detection (LODs) were in the range of 0.003-2.01 mg/kg, and the limits of quantification (LOQs) were in the range of 0.02-4.36 mg/kg. Recoveries at three levels were 63.2%-125.1%, and relative standard deviations (RSDs) were 0.18%-10.9%. Fifty-four batches of samples labeled with four monomer functional components and nine plant extracts were tested. In the 17 batches of samples labeled with nicotinamide, 4 batches labeled with caffeine, and 6 batches labeled with Sophora flavescens root extract, the labeled functional components were detected. One out of 11 batches of samples labeled with D-panthenol was not detected. Three of the seven batches of samples labeled with ascorbyl glucoside were not detected. In the 21 batches of samples labeled with licorice extracts, the corresponding functional components were not detected in 9 batches. In the 21 batches of samples labeled with Centella asiatica extract, the corresponding functional components were not detected in 11 batches. In the 13 batches of samples labeled with tea extract, the corresponding functional components were not detected in 8 batches. In 11 of the 12 batches containing ginseng root extract, the corresponding functional components were not detected. In five of the six batches of astragalus membranaceus root extract samples, the corresponding functional components were not detected. In samples labeled with Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Rehmannia glutinosa root extract, and Ophiopogon japonicus root extract, the corresponding functional components were detected. The method is simple, rapid, reliable, accurate, and suitable for the determination of the 22 functional components in cosmetics.Entities:
Keywords: cosmetics; functional components; linear ion trap/orbitrap high resolution mass spectrometry (LTQ/Orbitrap MS); ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC)
Mesh:
Substances:
Year: 2022 PMID: 36156628 PMCID: PMC9520369 DOI: 10.3724/SP.J.1123.2022.03037
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Se Pu ISSN: 1000-8713
22种功效成分的UHPLC-LTQ/Orbitrap MS分析参数
| Compound | Chemical | tR/ | Mr | Theoretical | Measured | Product |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nicotianamine (烟酰胺) | C6H6N2O | 1.20 | 122.0475 | 123.0552 | 123.0560 | 80.0499, 96.0448 |
| D-Panthenol (泛醇) | C9H19NO4 | 2.89 | 205.1309 | 206.1386 | 206.1401 | 76.0762, 188.1297 |
| Caffeine (咖啡因) | C8H10N4O2 | 8.32 | 194.0798 | 195.0876 | 195.0887 | 138.0670, 180.0665 |
| Ascorbyl glucoside (抗坏血酸葡糖苷) | C12H18O11 | 1.23 | 338.0844 | 339.0921 | 361.0766 | 199.0229, 185.0438 |
| Glycyrrhetic acid (甘草次酸) | C30H46O4 | 28.33 | 470.3391 | 471.3468 | 471.3496 | 425.3441, 189.1653, 263.1662 |
| Glycyrrhizinic acid (甘草酸) | C42H62O16 | 19.44 | 822.4032 | 823.4110 | 823.4744 | 453.3343, 734.4279 |
| Liquiritin (甘草苷) | C21H22O9 | 12.66 | 418.1258 | 419.1336 | 419.1416 | 257.0817, 137.0241 |
| Asiaticoside (积雪草苷) | C48H78O19 | 15.63 | 958.5131 | 981.5030 | 981.5079 | 493.1559 |
| Madecassoside (羟基积雪草苷) | C48H78O20 | 14.83 | 974.5081 | 997.4979 | 997.5059 | 493.1553 |
| Ginsenoside Re (人参皂苷Re) | C48H82O18 | 14.64 | 946.5495 | 969.5393 | 969.5474 | 789.4786 |
| Ginsenoside Rb1 (人参皂苷Rb1) | C54H92O23 | 17.49 | 1108.6023 | 1131.5922 | 1131.5980 | 365.1078, 789.4811 |
| Matrine (苦参碱) | C15H24N2O | 1.79 | 248.1883 | 249.1961 | 249.1975 | 148.1132 |
| Oxymatrine (氧化苦参碱) | C15H24N2O2 | 2.48 | 264.1832 | 265.1910 | 265.1926 | 247.1820, 205.1350, 148.1133 |
| Epicatechin gallat (表儿茶素没食子酸酯) | C22H18O10 | 12.75 | 442.0894 | 443.0972 | 443.0912 | 139.0399, 123.0449, 153.0194 |
| Epigallocatechin (表没食子儿茶素) | C15H14O7 | 7.63 | 306.0734 | 307.0812 | 307.0835 | 139.0398, 181.0508, 169.0508 |
| Ophiopogonin D (麦冬皂苷D) | C44H70O16 | 23.57 | 854.4658 | 855.4736 | 855.4749 | 413.3059, 129.0555 |
| Liriopesides B (山麦冬皂苷B) | C39H62O12 | 23.68 | 722.4235 | 723.4314 | 723.4337 | 269.1914, 415.2511 |
| Liriope muscari baily saponins C | C44H70O17 | 22.53 | 870.4607 | 871.4685 | 871.4539 | 722.4424, 854.4653, 359.4652 |
| (短葶山麦冬皂苷C) | ||||||
| Polydatin (虎杖苷) | C20H22O8 | 12.60 | 390.1309 | 391.1387 | 391.1342 | 229.0835, 241.0878 |
| Emodine (大黄素) | C15H10O5 | 23.40 | 270.0522 | 271.0601 | 271.0618 | 229.0521, 243.0672, 95.0135 |
| Acteoside (毛蕊花糖苷) | C29H36O15 | 12.81 | 624.2048 | 647.1946 | 647.2004 | 501.1409 |
| Astragaloside A (黄芪甲苷) | C41H68O14 | 18.41 | 784.4603 | 807.4501 | 807.4547 | 627.3914 |
图 1截至2021年12月美丽修行数据库中单体功效成分和 植物提取物在化妆品中的历史使用次数
图 222种功效成分的总离子流图及提取离子色谱图
22种成分的回归方程、相关系数、线性范围、检出限、定量限
| Compound | Regression equation | R2 | Linear range/(mg/kg) | LOD/(mg/kg) | LOQ/(mg/kg) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nicotianamine | y=7.05×105x+1.84×105 | 0.9998 | 0.51-25.90 | 0.01 | 0.03 |
| D-Panthenol | y=2.25×105x+6.00×106 | 0.9982 | 12.04-1204.43 | 0.03 | 0.07 |
| Caffeine | y=5.91×105x+1.35×104 | 0.9997 | 0.05-25.00 | 0.01 | 0.03 |
| Ascorbyl glucoside | y=1.34×104x-3.11×104 | 0.9994 | 2.48-123.85 | 1.25 | 2.34 |
| Glycyrrhetic acid | y=8.93×105x+2.23×105 | 0.9999 | 0.05-12.65 | 0.003 | 0.02 |
| Glycyrrhizinic acid | y=2.71×105x-3.45×104 | 0.9999 | 0.20-19.81 | 0.01 | 0.03 |
| Liquiritin | y=5.13×102x+5.49×103 | 0.9994 | 11.16-223.25 | 1.12 | 3.36 |
| Asiaticoside | y=2.79×104x+5.73×103 | 0.9992 | 0.41-10.38 | 0.04 | 0.12 |
| Madecassoside | y=6.67×103x+4.19×103 | 0.9999 | 0.49-124.00 | 0.25 | 0.75 |
| Ginsenoside Re | y=1.73×103x+5.65×103 | 0.9996 | 4.34-216.96 | 1.08 | 3.25 |
| Ginsenoside Rb1 | y=3.11×103x+1.10×103 | 0.9996 | 0.41-20.79 | 0.20 | 0.41 |
| Matrine | y=6.12×105x+8.00×106 | 0.9991 | 12.14-242.80 | 0.01 | 0.03 |
| Oxymatrine | y=6.97×105x+1.19×105 | 0.9997 | 0.04-21.09 | 0.01 | 0.02 |
| Epicatechin gallat | y=2.42×104x+2.04×103 | 0.9993 | 0.25-25.03 | 0.05 | 0.15 |
| Epigallocatechin | y=2.96×104x-4.11×104 | 0.9999 | 2.48-123.99 | 0.24 | 0.72 |
| Ophiopogonin D | y=2.36×104x+2.40×103 | 0.9999 | 0.24-24.11 | 0.05 | 0.15 |
| Liriopesides B | y=9.69×104x+2.30×104 | 0.9997 | 0.05-26.45 | 0.02 | 0.05 |
| Liriope muscari baily saponins C | y=3.47×104x-8.29×103 | 0.9999 | 1.23-24.75 | 0.05 | 0.15 |
| Polydatin | y=5.92×103x+1.68×103 | 0.9997 | 0.48-21.02 | 0.24 | 0.72 |
| Emodine | y=7.92×103x-1.03×104 | 0.9992 | 4.02-40.17 | 2.01 | 4.02 |
| Acteoside | y=3.49×103x-4.64×103 | 0.9989 | 4.36-43.64 | 1.23 | 4.36 |
| Astragaloside A | y=1.19×104x-6.50×102 | 0.9999 | 1.33-53.29 | 0.13 | 0.32 |
y: peak area; x: content, mg/kg.
6种植物提取物和4种单体功效成分的检测结果
| Labeled components and | Labeled | Not | Detected | Below the quantitative | Content range/ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Licorice extract | 21 | 9 | |||
| Glycyrrhizinic acid | 5 | 1 | 0.06-0.32 | ||
| Glycyrrhetic acid | 1 | 0 | 0.03 | ||
| Liquiritin | 0 | 0 | |||
| Glycyrrhizinic acid, glycyrrhetic acid | 6 | 2 batches of glycyrrhetic acid | 7.02-2116.10, 0.17-0.70 | ||
| Centella asiatica extract | 21 | 11 | |||
| Asiaticoside | 3 | 0 | 0.25-437.32 | ||
| Asiaticoside, madecassoside | 7 | 2 batches of madecassoside | 0.13-1195.08, 0.64-4221.37 | ||
| Tea extract | 13 | 8 | |||
| Caffeine | 2 | 0 | 0.05-2.08 | ||
| Epicatechin gallat, epigallocatechin | 1 | 1 batch of epicatechin gallat | 0.35 | ||
| Caffeine, epigallocatechin | 2 | 1 batch of epigallocatechin | 0.40-1.04, 0.46 | ||
| Ginseng extract | 12 | 11 | |||
| Ginsenoside Rb1 | 1 | 1 batch of ginsenoside Rb1 | |||
| Ginsenoside Re | 0 | 0 | |||
| Astragalus membranaceus root extract | 6 | 5 | |||
| Astragaloside A | 1 | 0 | 1.88 | ||
| Sophora flavescens root extract | 6 | 0 | |||
| Matrine | 2 | 0 | 3.61-12.20 | ||
| Oxymatrine | 1 | 0 | 38.03 | ||
| Matrine, oxymatrine | 3 | 1 batch of oxymatrine | 5.65-2794.00, 0.03-61.18 | ||
| Nicotianamine | 17 | 0 | 17 | 0 | 1019.06-41955.27 |
| D-Panthenol | 11 | 1 | 10 | 0 | 688.70-4518.41 |
| Ascorbyl glucoside | 7 | 3 | 4 | 0 | 0.82-2714.98 |
| Caffeine | 4 | 0 | 4 | 0 | 46.62-6003.74 |