Xiaoyan Wang1, Jiaxin Zhang1,2, Gansheng Liu1,3, Yang Jiang1, Jinmei Du1, Dagang Miao1, Changhai Xu1. 1. College of Textiles and Clothing, Qingdao University, 308 Ningxia Road, Qingdao, Shandong 266071, China. 2. Penglai Jiaxin Dyestuff Chemical Co., Ltd., 1 Jiaxin Road, Penglai, Shandong 264000, China. 3. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, 1008 Lihu Avenue, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China.
Abstract
We proposed in this paper to design and synthesize a series of benzisothiazole-based heterocyclic azo disperse dyes with high resistance to alkali and peroxide. These newly synthesized disperse dyes were confirmed using 1H nuclear magnetic resonance (1H NMR), mass spectroscopy, and a UV-visible spectrophotometer. The resistances to alkali and peroxide were examined by dyeing polyester fabric with these synthesized disperse dyes in sodium hydroxide solution and alkaline hydrogen peroxide solution, respectively. It was found that the disperse dyes having cyano and hydroxyl groups exhibited poor resistance to alkali and peroxide. When the cyano and hydroxyl groups were substituted with ethyl, benzyl, and p-methylbenzyl groups, the synthesized disperse dyes exhibited extremely high resistance to alkali and peroxide. Utilizing the high resistance to alkali and peroxide of synthesized disperse dyes, the polyester suede fabric and polyester/cotton blended fabric could be produced by combining pretreatment with dyeing in one bath. From pilot-plant production based on 1-ton fabric, the one-bath process provided the advantages of saving electric power, steam, water, and man-hour.
We proposed in this paper to design and synthesize a series of benzisothiazole-based heterocyclic azo disperse dyes with high resistance to alkali and peroxide. These newly synthesized disperse dyes were confirmed using 1H nuclear magnetic resonance (1H NMR), mass spectroscopy, and a UV-visible spectrophotometer. The resistances to alkali and peroxide were examined by dyeing polyester fabric with these synthesized disperse dyes in sodium hydroxide solution and alkaline hydrogen peroxide solution, respectively. It was found that the disperse dyes having cyano and hydroxyl groups exhibited poor resistance to alkali and peroxide. When the cyano and hydroxyl groups were substituted with ethyl, benzyl, and p-methylbenzyl groups, the synthesized disperse dyes exhibited extremely high resistance to alkali and peroxide. Utilizing the high resistance to alkali and peroxide of synthesized disperse dyes, the polyester suede fabric and polyester/cotton blended fabric could be produced by combining pretreatment with dyeing in one bath. From pilot-plant production based on 1-ton fabric, the one-bath process provided the advantages of saving electric power, steam, water, and man-hour.
The conventional production
of polyester[1] and polyester/cotton blended
fabrics[2] involves multistep wet processing,
which is often operated in separate
baths because of varying production conditions.[3] For example, polyester fabric requires alkaline pretreatment,
and the residual alkali on the fabric must be completely neutralized
with acid reagents and rinsed with a large amount of water before
it is dyed with disperse dyes under acidic conditions.[4,5] Polyester/cotton blended fabric requires an even more complicated
production process including, in turn, bleaching of cotton with alkaline
hydrogen peroxide, dyeing of polyester with disperse dyes, and dyeing
of cotton with reactive dyes,[6,7] which must be completely
neutralized and rinsed at the end of each process step, otherwise
the production quality will be impaired at the next process step.[8] Especially, when the polyester fabric is dyed
with disperse dyes under acidic conditions, oligomers such as ring-trimers
migrate[9] from polyester to deposit on the
fabric detracting from the dyeing quality.[10,11] Therefore, the conventional production of polyester[12] and polyester/cotton blended fabric[13] is featured with high consumption of energy and water.[14−16]One problem is that most disperse dyes contain auxochromic
groups
such as ester, amide, cyano, and hydroxyl that are sensitive to alkalis
and tend to hydrolyze or ionize under alkaline conditions as shown
in Scheme . In the
first 20 years of the 21st century, much effort has been focused on
the cleaner production of polyester fabric by synthesizing alkali-stable
disperse dyes.[17−20] Dyeing of polyester fabric with these alkali-stable disperse dyes
could be combined with scouring of polyester fabric in one bath, which
shortens the process flow, reduces water and energy, and increases
the production efficiency.[21,22] Especially, the problem
of tar spots on polyester fabric was eliminated by dyeing in the alkali
bath.[10,23] Among these alkali-stable disperse dyes,
heterocyclic azo disperse dyes[24] have attracted
much attention due to their bright shades, high molar extinction coefficients,[25] and excellent colorfastness.[26] However, most of the alkali-stable disperse dyes have limitations
in alkali resistance[18,27] so the dyeing of polyester fabric
with alkali-stable disperse dyes cannot be combined with alkali reduction
treatment in one bath, which often requires a concentration of 10
g/L sodium hydroxide or higher.[22,28,29] Especially, the peroxide resistance of these alkali-stable disperse
dyes cannot meet the requirement of the one-bath process of cotton/polyester
blended fabric for bleaching with hydrogen peroxide and dyeing with
disperse dyes. Our previous research focused on benzothiazole-azo
disperse dyes and their resistance to alkali and peroxide. The results
showed that the synthesized benzothiazole-azo disperse dyes are stable
under the dyeing conditions of 10 g/L sodium hydroxide and 5 g/L hydrogen
peroxide,[30] which can be applied not only
for dyeing and alkaline reduction of polyester fabric in one bath
but also for dyeing and peroxide bleaching of polyester/cotton blend
fabric in one bath.[31]
Scheme 1
Mechanism of Various
Groups in Alkali Conditions
In this study, we proposed to synthesize a series
of benzisothiazole-based
heterocyclic azo disperse dyes that have high resistance to alkali
reduction treatment and hydrogen peroxide bleaching. The high resistance
to alkali reduction treatment allows for the polyester fabric to be
processed for alkali reduction and dyeing in one bath, and the high
resistance to hydrogen peroxide bleaching allows for the cotton/polyester
blended fabric to be processed for hydrogen peroxide bleaching and
dyeing in one bath. It is expected that the newly synthesized benzisothiazole-based
heterocyclic azo disperse dyes will result in cleaner production,
saving water and energy.
Experimental Section
Materials
Polyester knitted greige
fabric (100%, 188 g/m2), polyester suede greige fabric
(100%, 320 g/m2), and polyester/cotton blended knitted
greige fabric (polyester/cotton: 55/45, 260 g/m2) were
provided by Laimei Technology Co., Ltd. (Zhengjiang, China). All of
the dye intermediates were provided by Penglai Jiaxin Dye Chemical
Co., Ltd. (Shandong, China), including 3-amino-5-nitro-2,1-benzoisothiazole, N,N-diethylaniline, N-ethyl-N-hydroxyethylaniline, 2,2′-(phenylimino)diethanol, 2-(N-ethyl-m-toluidino)ethanol, N-(2-cyanoethyl)-N-benzyl-m-toluidine, N-cyanoethyl-N-benzyl-aniline, N-ethyl-N-cyanoethoxyethyl-m-methyl-aniline, N-ethyl-N-cyanoethoxyethyl-aniline, N-ethyl-N-p-methylbenzylaniline, N-ethyl-N-p-methylbenzyl-m-aniline, N-ethyl-N-benzyltoluidine,
and N-benzyl-N-ethylaniline. All
other chemical reagents (Analytical Reagent, AR) for the syntheses,
dyeing, characterizations, and measurement of the dyeing properties
were purchased commercially (Sinopharm Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd.,
China). Leveling agent NICCA SUNSOLT 7000Z (industrial reagent) was
purchased from Rihua Chemical Co., Ltd. (Shanghai, China). Stabilizing
agent DM1403 (industrial reagent) was purchased from Dymatic Co.,
Ltd. Other chemicals used in experiments were all laboratory reagent
grade.
Synthesis and Characterization of Dyes
The benzisothiazole-based heterocyclic azo disperse dyes were synthesized
as shown in Scheme .
Scheme 2
Synthesis of Benzisothiazole-Based Heterocyclic Azo Disperse
Dyes
Preparation of Diazonium Salt
Concentrated
sulfuric acid (50 mL) was slowly added to a solution of 5-nitro-3-aminobenzisothiazole
(19.5 g, 0.1 mol). The temperature of the mixture was quickly dropped
to 0–5 °C in an ice bath. An appropriate amount of nitrosyl
sulfuric acid was added to the mixture for diazotization at 0–5
°C for 3 h. The reaction was monitored with starch-iodide paper.
Once the nitrogen was consumed, the diazonium salt was obtained and
used for coupling.
Coupling and Purification
Twelve
coupling components with different substitute groups were used for
synthesizing 12 different benzisothiazole-based heterocyclic azo disperse
dyes, as shown in Table .
Table 1
Substitute Groups of the Coupling
Component for Target Dye
The coupling component was added to a mixture of water
(60 mL),
concentrated sulfuric acid (2 mL), and sulfamic acid (0.2 g, 0.02
mol) in a two-neck flask. The solution of the coupling component was
cooled to 10 °C. The diazonium salt solution was added dropwise
to the coupling solution with mechanical stirring at 10 °C, and
the reaction mixture was stirred for 6 h. The reaction was monitored
by thin layer chromatography (TLC). After the reaction was completed,
the solution was neutralized with sodium hydroxide. The precipitated
product was filtered, washed with water, and recrystallized from ethanol.
The yield of each dye was then calculated.
Characterization
The melting points
(MPs) were recorded on an X-4 micro-melting melting point apparatus
(Yuhua Instrument Co., Ltd., China). 1H nuclear magnetic
resonance (1H NMR) spectra were recorded in CDCl3 solution on an Avance III 400 MHz digital NMR spectrometer (Bruker,
Switzerland). Chemical shifts (d) were relative to
tetramethylsilane (TMS, d = 0.00) as an internal
standard and were expressed in ppm. Mass spectra (MS) were recorded
in positive electron spray ionization (ESI+) mode using a Waters (USA)
MALDI Synapt Q-TOF mass spectrometer. The photophysical properties
of the synthesized dyes were characterized in 1 cm quartz cells using
a UV-2600 UV–vis spectrophotometer (Shimadzu, Japan) with acetone,
ethanol, and N,N-dimethylformamide
(DMF) as solvents. Characterization data of dyes are provided in the Supporting Information.
Milling of Dyes
The purified dyes
were milled with sodium lignin sulfonate (1:1, w/w) at 500 r/min for
8 h at 25 °C using a spherical grinder with the addition of a
fixed amount of water (to ensure a solid content of 45%) and zirconium
beads. The milled dyes were dried and then mixed at a high speed for
20 min to obtain the final dye powder.
Dyeing Experiments
Tests of Resistance of the Synthesized Disperse
Dyes to Alkali and Peroxide
The dye bath was prepared by
adding 2.0% of a synthesized disperse dye on weight of fabric and
1 g/L leveling agent. A 5 g sample of polyester fabric was added to
the dye bath at a liquor-to-goods ratio of 20:1. Various concentrations
of sodium hydroxide (0–10 g/L) or a buffer solution (0.05 M,
pH 8–13) were added to the dye bath to investigate the resistance
of the synthesized disperse dyes to alkali. Various concentrations
of hydrogen peroxide (35% w/w, 0–5 g/L) were added to the dye
bath at pH 11 (0.05 M buffer solution) to investigate the resistance
of the synthesized disperse dyes to peroxide. The dye bath buffered
at pH 5 was used as a standard reference. The dyeing experiments were
conducted in an Ahiba IR Dyeing Machine (Datacolor, USA). The dyed
fabric was cleaned through a soaping process. The process diagram
for dyeing is shown in Figure .
Figure 1
Process diagram of dyeing for polyester.
Process diagram of dyeing for polyester.
Pilot-Plant Production
Pilot-Plant Production of Polyester Suede
Fabric
The conventional production of polyester suede fabric
includes alkaline reduction (Stage I) and dyeing (Stage II) as shown
in Figure . The polyester
suede greige fabric (1000 kg) was immersed in a 10 g/L NaOH solution
at a liquor-to-goods ratio of 20:1 for the alkaline reduction process,
which was carried out according to the procedure (Stage I) as shown
in Figure . When the
alkaline reduction was completed, the polyester suede fabric was rinsed
in hot water and neutralized with acetic acid. The polyester suede
fabric was then dyed at pH 5 with a synthesized disperse dye (e.g.,
D12) in an amount of 2% on weight of fabric. The process of dyeing
was carried out according to the procedure (Stage II) as shown in Figure . When the dyeing
was completed, the polyester suede fabric was treated in a reduction
cleaning bath with the addition of 2 g/L Na2S4O2 and 2 g/L NaOH at 85 °C for 10 min. Then, the
fabrics were thoroughly rinsed with water and dried.
Figure 2
Process diagrams of conventional
production of polyester suede
fabric.
Process diagrams of conventional
production of polyester suede
fabric.A one-bath process for production of polyester
suede fabric was
designed using a newly synthesized disperse dye (e.g., D12) as shown
in Figure . The polyester
suede greige fabric (1000 kg) was immersed in a 10 g/L NaOH solution,
2% of D12 based on weight of fabric, and other dyeing auxiliaries.
The one-bath process was carried out according to procedure (a) in Figure . When the one-bath
process was completed, the polyester suede fabric was cleaned through
a soaping process, thoroughly rinsed with water, and dried.
Figure 3
Process diagrams
of one-step dyeing of polyester suede fabric.
Process diagrams
of one-step dyeing of polyester suede fabric.
Pilot-Plant Production of Polyester/Cotton
Blended Fabric
The conventional production of polyester/cotton
blended fabric includes bleaching of the cotton component (Stage I)
and dyeing of the polyester component (Stage II) as shown in Figure . The polyester/cotton
blended greige fabric (1000 kg) was immersed in a bleaching bath containing
5 g/L hydrogen peroxide (35% w/w), 2 g/L sodium hydroxide, and other
auxiliaries at a liquor-to-goods ratio of 20:1. The process of bleaching
was carried out according to the procedure (Stage I) shown in Figure . When the bleaching
was completed, the polyester/cotton blended fabric was neutralized
with acetic acid and thoroughly rinsed with water. The polyester/cotton
blended fabric was then dyed at pH 5 with a synthesized disperse dye
(e.g., D12) in an amount of 2% on weight of fabric. The process of
dyeing was carried out according to the procedure (Stage II) shown
in Figure . When the
dyeing was completed, the polyester/cotton blended fabric was treated
in a reduction cleaning bath with the addition of 2 g/L Na2S4O2 and 2 g/L NaOH at 85 °C for 10 min.
The polyester/cotton blended fabric was then thoroughly rinsed with
water and dried.
Figure 4
Process diagrams of conventional dyeing of polyester/cotton
blended
fabric.
Process diagrams of conventional dyeing of polyester/cotton
blended
fabric.A one-bath process for production of polyester/cotton
blended fabric
was designed using a newly synthesized disperse dye (e.g., D12) as
shown in Figure .
The polyester/cotton blended greige fabric (1000 kg) was immersed
in the process bath containing 5 g/L hydrogen peroxide (30% w/w),
2 g/L sodium hydroxide, 2% of D12 based on weight of fabric, and other
dyeing auxiliaries at a liquor-to-goods ratio of 20:1. The one-bath
process was carried out according to the procedure (a) in Figure . When the one-bath
process was completed, the polyester/cotton blended fabric was cleaned
through a soaping process, thoroughly rinsed with water, and dried.
Figure 5
Process
diagrams of one-bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended
fabric.
Process
diagrams of one-bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended
fabric.
Measurements
Color Strength and Color Difference
The color strength (K/S value)
of the dyed fabrics and color difference (ΔECMC) between dyed fabrics were, respectively, measured
according to the standard of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6–2016
with the settings of the CIE Illuminant D65 and the CIE 1964 Standard
Observer. The degree of whiteness of the bleached polyester/cotton
blended fabric was measured using the CIE whiteness index (WI) according
to the AATCC Test Method 110–2010.
Colorfastness
The colorfastness
to washing, sublimation, rubbing, and light was measured in terms
of AATCC TM 61–2009, ISO 105-X11:1994, ISO 105-X12:2016, and
ISO 105-B02:2014, respectively.
Alkaline Reduction Rate
The alkali
reduction rate (w %) was calculated using eq :where m0 and m1 are the dry weight of polyester fabric before
and after alkaline reduction, respectively.
Bursting Strength
The bursting
strength of polyester and polyester/cotton fabrics dyed by the conventional
method and the one-bath method was measured using an electronic strength
tester HD 026N (Nantong Hongda Experimental Instrument Co., Ltd.,
China) according to the steel ball method described in ISO 3303-1:
2012(E), and the strength loss rate (l %) was measured and calculated
using eq :where S0 and S1 are the bursting strength of the polyester
fabric before and after alkali reduction, respectively.
Results and Discussion
Photophysical Properties of Dyes
Photophysical properties of the synthesized disperse dye powder in
acetone, ethanol, and DMF were measured. The absorption maximum wavelength
(λmax) and molar extinction coefficient (ε)
of these synthesized disperse dyes in various solvents are shown in Table .
Table 2
Absorption Maximum Wavelength and
Molar Extinction Coefficient of the Synthesized Dyes in Various Solvents
acetone
ethanol
DMF
dye
λmax, nm
ε × 104, L/(mol·cm)
λmax, nm
ε × 104, L/(mol·cm)
λmax, nm
ε × 104, L/(mol·cm)
D1
601.5
2.90
599.5
2.54
614.5
3.41
D2
600.0
3.45
598.0
3.14
615.0
3.75
D3
616.0
3.71
611.5
3.76
630.5
4.43
D4
615.5
3.34
610.0
2.91
630.0
3.49
D5
582.0
2.08
568.0
2.91
595.5
2.79
D6
568.0
2.32
564.0
2.65
582.0
2.16
D7
595.0
2.67
591.5
2.65
608.5
2.75
D8
611.5
3.01
595.0
3.74
623.0
2.82
D9
598.0
3.71
596.0
3.14
606.0
3.75
D10
607.0
2.13
603.5
1.19
621.0
2.43
D11
590.5
3.06
587.0
2.19
603.5
3.39
D12
599.5
3.98
597.0
2.59
612.0
3.99
As shown in Table , the λmax of D1 to D12 in acetone
ranging from
568 to 616 nm indicated a hue from greenish to purplish-blue. The
dominant hue of all of the synthesized disperse dyes was blue as they
have the same diazo component. The maximum extinction coefficients
of most synthesized disperse dyes are more than 20 000 L/(mol·cm),
indicating that they have excellent chromogenic properties and can
provide strong color strength. The difference in λmax of the dyes was mainly caused by the different substituents in the
coupling component. The introduction of hydroxyl groups in D3 and
D4 increased the hydroxyl polarity of dyes, leading to a bathochromic
shift (+15.5 nm, D3; +15 nm, D4) and an increase in molar extinction
coefficient of dyes. The introduction of cyano groups caused a hypochromatic
shift (−22.5 nm, D6; −17.5 nm, D5) due to their electron-accepting
effect.The λmax of all of the synthesized
disperse dyes
in DMF showed bathochromic shifts compared with that in ethanol and
acetone, due to the polarity differences of the three solvents. For
all of the synthesized dye molecules assigned to the π–π*
transition system, the ground state was less polar than the excited
state. Hence, with the increase of the polarity of the solvent (ethanol
< acetone < DMF), the energy of the ground state was almost
unaffected while the energy of the excited state decreased, which
led to a hyperchromic effect.[19]
Resistance to Alkali
The alkaline
resistance of the synthesized disperse dyes was examined by the dyeing
of polyester fabric (Figure a) at various pH values. The color strength (K/S value) of the dyed polyester fabric was measured
as an indicator of alkaline resistance. As shown in Figure b, the K/S values of the polyester fabric dyed with each synthesized disperse
dye are stable in the range of pH 5–9, indicating that all
of the 12 synthesized disperse dyes have alkaline resistance. However,
the K/S values of the polyester
fabrics dyed with D2, D3, D4, D7, and D8 decreased as the pH increased
from 9 to 13. This is mainly due to the fact that the hydroxyl groups
in D2, D3, and D4 were ionized and the cyano group in D7 and D8 hydrolyzed
under stronger alkaline conditions. Though D5 and D6 have a cyano
group, they have better alkaline resistance than D7 and D8. This may
be ascribed to the introduction of the benzene group, which can provide
good coplanarity to the adjacent cyano group, enhance the π–π
stacking interaction between two adjacent dye molecules, and protect
the cyano group from hydrolysis under alkaline conditions.[1] However, as the pH increased up to 13, the hydrolysis
of the cyano group in D7 and D8 occurred, resulting in a decrease
in dyeing performance. Among these synthesized disperse dyes, D9–D12
exhibited excellent dyeing performance in a wide range of pH values,
which might be the ideal candidates for alkaline-resistant disperse
dyes.
Figure 6
(a) Process diagrams of tests of resistance to alkali and peroxide;
(b) K/S curves of the dyed polyester
fabrics with D1–D12 under different pH values; (c) K/S curves of the dyed polyester fabrics
with D1, D5–D6, and D9–D12 under different NaOH concentrations;
and (d) K/S curves of the polyester
fabrics dyed with D1–D12 under different H2O2 concentrations.
(a) Process diagrams of tests of resistance to alkali and peroxide;
(b) K/S curves of the dyed polyester
fabrics with D1–D12 under different pH values; (c) K/S curves of the dyed polyester fabrics
with D1, D5–D6, and D9–D12 under different NaOH concentrations;
and (d) K/S curves of the polyester
fabrics dyed with D1–D12 under different H2O2 concentrations.The alkaline resistance of D1, D5, D6, and D9–D12
was further
examined by adding various amounts of sodium hydroxide to dyeing baths
(Figure a). The color
strength of the dyed polyester fabric is shown in Figure c. It can be seen that the
color strengths of polyester fabrics dyed with D1, D5, and D6 decreased
as the concentration of sodium hydroxide increased. The decreasing
performance of D1, D5, and D6 was ascribed to their instabilities
in a strongly alkaline bath. Though D1, D5, and D6 are stable at pH
12 (as shown in Figure b), they may undergo chemical changes in the presence of a strong
alkali such as sodium hydroxide. Comparatively, the dyes of D9–D12
exhibited excellent dyeing performance and were quite stable in the
range of 0–10 g/L sodium hydroxide. This indicates that the
dyes of D9–D12 have excellent alkaline resistance and can be
used for dyeing polyester fabric with the addition of sodium hydroxide.
Resistance to Peroxide
The peroxide
resistance of the synthesized disperse dyes was examined by the dyeing
of polyester fabric in an alkaline bath containing various concentrations
of hydrogen peroxide (Figure a), and the results are shown in Figure d. In the alkaline dyeing bath, hydrogen
peroxide dissociated into perhydroxyl anions (HOO–) by reaction with hydroxyl anions (HO–). Therefore,
HOO– and HO– are two main types
of species that may potentially attack auxochromes (e.g., cyanoethyl
and hydroxylethyl) and chromophores (e.g., azo) of these dyes. As
shown in Figure d,
the color strength of polyester fabric dyed with D2, D3, D4, and D7
decreased drastically as the concentration of hydrogen peroxide increased,
which was mainly caused by ionization of the hydroxylethyl group and
hydrolysis of the cyanoethyl group under alkaline conditions. D8 had
higher alkaline resistance than D7 because of the methyl group in
the ortho-position of the azo group, which may enhance the dye’s
stability by its electron-donating effect. It seems that HOO– does not destroy the azo group of the disperse dyes.
Performance of Pilot-Plant Production of Polyester
Suede Fabric
The conventional production of the polyester
suede fabric includes the processes of alkaline reduction, washing,
neutralization, dyeing at pH 5, reduction cleaning, soaping, and washing,
as shown in Scheme . Using the synthesized alkaline-resistant disperse dyes, the processes
of alkaline reduction and dyeing can be combined into one bath, but
the processes of washing, neutralization, and reduction cleaning are
excluded from the production of the polyester suede fabric. The combined
process was examined by producing 1 ton of polyester suede fabric
in comparison with the conventional production. As shown in Table , the alkaline reduction
rate, strength loss rate, and color appearance of polyester suede
fabric produced by the combined process were close to the alkaline
reduction rate and color appearance of polyester suede fabric produced
by the conventional process. Figure shows that the colorfastnesses of the two polyester
suede fabrics were similar. This indicates that the combined process
could meet the requirement for production of polyester suede fabric.
Scheme 3
Dyeing Procedures of Polyester Suede Fabrics
Table 3
Performance Comparison of Dyed Polyester
Suede Fabrics with Conventional and One-Step Processes
alkali reduction rate (w %)
strength loss
rate (l %)
λmax, nm
K/S value
ΔECMC
conventional process
10.50
11.05
612.0
18.56
0.86
one-step process
9.15
9.31
612.0
19.68
Figure 7
Colorfastness
comparison of dyed polyester suede fabrics with conventional
and one-step processes.
Colorfastness
comparison of dyed polyester suede fabrics with conventional
and one-step processes.
Performance of Pilot-Plant Production of Polyester/Cotton
Blended Fabric
The conventional production of polyester/cotton
blended fabric includes the process of bleaching, washing, acidic
neutralization, dyeing of polyester with disperse dyes at pH 5, reduction
cleaning, dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes, soaping, and washing,
as shown in Scheme . Using the synthesized disperse dyes, the bleaching of cotton and
the dyeing of polyester can be combined into one bath, but the washing,
acidic neutralization, and reduction cleaning are excluded from the
production of the polyester/cotton blended fabric. The combined process
was examined by producing 1 ton of polyester/cotton blended fabric
in comparison with the conventional production. As shown in Table , the two production
processes could provide the polyester/cotton blended fabric with a
similar whiteness index, strength loss rate, and almost the same color
appearance. The two dyed polyester/cotton blended fabrics had the
same colorfastness as shown in Figure . This indicates that the combined process could meet
the requirement for production of polyester/cotton blended fabrics.
Scheme 4
Dyeing Procedures of Polyester/Cotton Blended Fabrics
Table 4
Performance Comparison of Bleached
Cotton Ingredient and Dyed Polyester Ingredient of Polyester/Cotton
Blended Fabrics with Conventional and One-Bath Processes
color
appearance
production
CIE WI
strength loss rate (l %)
λmax, nm
K/S value
ΔECMC
conventional
79.86
12.48
612.0
18.96
0.35
one-bath
77.83
10.68
612.0
18.74
Figure 8
Colorfastness
comparison of dyed polyester ingredients of polyester/cotton
blended fabrics with conventional and one-bath processes.
Colorfastness
comparison of dyed polyester ingredients of polyester/cotton
blended fabrics with conventional and one-bath processes.
Resource Consumption Estimation
Based
on the pilot-plant production (e.g., 1-ton scale) of polyester suede
fabric and polyester/cotton blended fabric in Jiangsu Lianfa Textile
Co., Ltd. (Jiangsu, China), the consumption of resources such as electric
power, steam, water, and man-hour was estimated as shown in Table . It can be seen that,
in comparison with the conventional production processes, the newly
designed production processes were shown to have great advantages
such as saving 43% electric power, 25% steam, 50% water, and 43% man-hour
in the production of polyester suede fabric and saving 38% electric
power, 42% steam, 33% water, and 38% man-hour in production of polyester/cotton
blended fabric. This can be mainly ascribed to the synthesized disperse
dyes, which had good resistances to alkali and peroxide, allowing
for the dyeing of polyester to be combined with alkaline reduction
for the production of polyester suede fabric and combined with the
bleaching of cotton for the production of polyester/cotton blended
fabric. Therefore, the utilization of the synthesized disperse dyes
resulted in cleaner production of polyester suede fabric and polyester/cotton
blended fabric by saving energy and water and increasing production
efficiency.
Table 5
Resource Consumption in Production
of Polyester Suede Fabric and Polyester/Cotton Blended Fabric
production
of polyester suede fabric
production
of polyester/cotton blended fabric
resource
conventional
one-bath
save rate (%)
conventional
one-bath
save rate
(%)
electric power, kW·h
467
267
43
576
360
38
steam, ton
4.44
3.33
25
2.81
1.62
42
water, ton
56
28
50
90
60
33
man-hour, h
7
4
43
8
5
38
Conclusions
A new series of disperse
dyes were designed and synthesized using
3-amino-5-nitro-2,1-benzoisothiazole as the diazo component. A total
of 12 coupling components with various substituents were selected
to obtain disperse dyes with high resistance to alkali and peroxide.
These synthesized disperse dyes were confirmed by 1H nuclear
magnetic resonance and mass spectroscopy. UV–vis absorption
spectroscopy showed that these synthesized disperse dyes gave colors
from greenish to purplish-blue. The resistances of these disperse
dyes to alkali and peroxide were examined by dyeing polyester fabric
in sodium hydroxide and alkaline hydrogen peroxide solutions. It was
found that the disperse dyes containing cyano and (or) hydroxyl groups
exhibited poor dyeing performance under alkali conditions, which was
ascribed to hydrolyzation of the cyano group and ionization of the
hydroxyl group. The disperse dyes without cyano and hydroxyl groups
exhibited great dyeing performance, indicating that these dyes were
highly resistant to alkali and peroxide. One of these synthesized
disperse dyes having high resistance to alkali and peroxide (e.g.,
D12) was used for the production of polyester suede fabric by combining
alkaline reduction with dyeing in one bath and for the production
of polyester/cotton blended fabric by combining the peroxide bleaching
with dyeing in one bath. It was found from the results of pilot-plant
productions that the newly designed processes could meet the production
requirements and afforded enormous advantages in increasing production
efficiency, conserving energy, and reducing emissions. Therefore,
the synthesized disperse dyes with high resistance to alkaline and
peroxide lead to the cleaner production of polyester and polyester/cotton
blended fabrics.