| Literature DB >> 35741336 |
Sabrina Mohn1, Jörg Spörri2,3, Flavien Mauler4, Method Kabelitz1, Andreas Schweizer1.
Abstract
The aim of this study was to describe the nonoperative treatment outcomes of finger flexor tenosynovitis in sport climbers and to evaluate the association with baseline measures and therapy contents. Sixty-five sport climbers (49 males, mean age 34.1 years) diagnosed with tenosynovitis of the finger flexors were retrospectively asked about injury triggers, therapy contents and outcomes. Pulley thickness was measured by ultrasound. All patients were initially treated conservatively, and only one of the patients needed further therapy (single injection with hyaluronic acid); none of them underwent surgical treatment. The most frequently applied therapy was climbing-related load reduction (91%). The treatment resulted in a statistically significant reduction in pain intensity during climbing (before/after therapy ratio [Visual Analog Scale (VAS)/VAS] = 0.62, 95% CI = 0.55, 0.68). The average duration of the symptoms was 30.5 weeks (range 1-120 weeks). In a multiple linear regression analysis, initial daily life pain intensity and a climbing level higher than 7b according to the French/sport grading scale were the only predictive parameters for the relative change in pain intensity and symptom duration, respectively. All patients were able to resume climbing, with 75% regaining or even exceeding their initial climbing level. The good to excellent outcomes and no correlation between particular therapy contents and therapy outcome may suggest that finger flexor tenosynovitis in sport climbers has a favorable natural course without requiring invasive therapy. However, further cohort studies and, ultimately, randomized controlled trials are needed to conclusively confirm our promising observations.Entities:
Keywords: finger injury; flexor tendon; nonoperative; overuse; rock climbing; tenosynovitis
Year: 2022 PMID: 35741336 PMCID: PMC9220062 DOI: 10.3390/biology11060815
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Biology (Basel) ISSN: 2079-7737
Figure 1The tendon sheath is reinforced by five annular (A1–5) and three cruciform (C1–3) ligaments that hold the flexor tendon close to the bone.
Figure 2In the full crimp position, the PIP joint is fully flexed, and the DIP joint hyperextends.
Figure 3Patients received a piece of modelling clay to strengthen the flexor muscles.
Figure 4Furthermore, patients received a compression fingerling to decrease soft tissue swelling.
The French/sport grading scale compared to other popular grading scales in climbing (in accordance with Draper et al., 2015 [16]).
| Climbing Group | IRCRA | YDS | French/Sport | UIAA | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lower Grade (Level 1) Male and Female | 1 | 5.1 | 1 | I | |
| 2 | 5.2 | 2 | II | ||
| 3 | 5.3 | 2+ | III/III+ | ||
| 4 | 5.4 | 3- | III+/IV | ||
| 5 | 5.5 | 3 | IV/IV+ | ||
| 6 | 5.6 | 3+ | IV/V- | ||
| 7 | 5.7 | 4 | V-/V | ||
| 8 | 5.8 | 4+ | V+ | ||
| 9 | 5.9 | 5 | VI- | ||
| Intermediate (Level 2) Male | Intermediate (Level 2) | 10 | 5.10a | 5+ | VI |
| 11 | 5.10b | 6a | VI+ | ||
| 12 | 5.10c | 6a+ | VII- | ||
| 13 | 5.10d | 6b | VII-/VII | ||
| 14 | 5.11a | 6b+ | VII/VII+ | ||
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| 15 | 5.11b | 6c | VII+/VIII- | |
| 16 | 5.11c | 6c+ | VIII- | ||
| 17 | 5.11d | 7a | VIII | ||
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| 18 | 5.12a | 7a+ | VIII/VIII+ | |
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| 20 | 5.12c | 7b+ | IX-/IX | ||
| Elite (Level 4) Female | 21 | 5.12d | 7c | IX | |
| 22 | 5.13a | 7c+ | IX+ | ||
| 23 | 5.13b | 8a | IX+/X- | ||
| Elite (Level 4) Male | 24 | 5.13c | 8a+ | X-/X | |
| 25 | 5.13d | 8b | X/X+ | ||
| 26 | 5.14a | 8b+ | X+ | ||
| Higher Elite (Level 5) | 27 | 5.14b | 8c | XI- | |
| 28 | 5.14c | 8c+ | XI-/XI | ||
| 29 | 5.14d | 9a | XI/XI+ | ||
| 30 | 5.15a | 9a+ | XI+/XII- | ||
| 31 | 5.15b | 9b | XII- | ||
| 32 | 5.15c | 9b+ | XII | ||
IRCRA: International Rock-Climbing Research Association. YDS: Yosemite Decimal System. UIAA: Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme. Bold is necessary to highlight the example of a 7b Climber as it is mentioned in the text.
Figure 5Pulley width was measured in a transverse plane (mm) at approximately 25%, 50% and 75% of the transverse pulley diameter to determine the average value.
Baseline characteristics.
| Overall ( | Female ( | Male ( | |
|---|---|---|---|
| age [year] | 34.1 (32.0, 36.2) | 33.3 (28.9, 37.7) | 34.4 (32.0, 36.8) |
| climbing years before therapy [year] | 11.1 (8.9, 13.2) c | 7.7 (4.4, 11.0) b | 12.1 (9.5, 14.7) b |
| average pulley thickness [cm] | 1.06 (0.95, 1.17) h | 0.97 (0.70, 1.25) d | 1.08 (0.92, 1.25) g |
| climbing level higher than 7b (redpoint) [%] | 63.1 a | 56.3 a | 65.3 a |
| pain intensity during climbing before therapy [VAS] | 5.9 (5.4, 6.4) f | 6.1 (4.9, 7.4) b | 5.8 (5.1, 6.5) e |
| pain intensity in daily life before therapy [VAS] | 3.1 (2.7, 3.5) f | 3.9 (2.7, 5.1) b | 2.8 (2.3, 3.3) e |
All data are expressed as the mean with 95% confidence intervals (CI) in brackets, unless otherwise indicated. a data reported as percentage proportion; b unknown in 1 subject (6.25% of all females, 2.04% of all males); c unknown in 2 subjects (3.07% of all patients); d unknown in 3 subjects (4.62% of all patients, 18.75% of all females); e unknown in 4 subjects (6.15% of all patients, 8.16% of all males); f unknown in 5 subjects (7.69% of all patients); g unknown in 6 subjects (12.24% of all males); h unknown in 9 subjects (13.85% of all patients).
Finger flexor tenosynovitis: injury characteristics, retrospectively perceived injury triggers and training attitudes.
| Hands | |
| dominant hand affected [%] | 50.8 |
| nondominant hand affected [%] | 60.0 |
| Digit | |
| digit III affected [%] | 58.5 |
| digit IV affected [%] | 55.4 |
| digit V affected [%] | 1.5 |
| Pulley | |
| A2 pulley affected [%] | 84.6 |
| A4 pulley affected [%] | 23.1 |
| multiple pulleys affected [%] | 27.7 |
| Perceived Injury Triggers | |
| hard and intensive training [%] | 63.1 |
| extensive crimping [%] | 30.8 |
| extensive use of pockets [%] | 6.2 |
| foot slipped off [%] | 13.8 |
| repeated attempts of a hard and/or dynamic single pull [%] | 41.5 |
| other [%] | 16.9 |
| Training Attitudes | |
| regular warm-up [%] | 41.5 |
| training on campus board [%] | 32.3 |
| training on hang board [%] | 43.1 |
| specific training on small holds [%] | 33.8 |
| more than 3 training and/or climbing sessions per week [%] | 30.8 |
| dynamo training [%] | 20.0 |
All data are expressed as percentage proportions unless otherwise indicated.
Therapy content and therapy outcome.
| Therapy Content | |
| modelling clay [%] | 75.4 |
| compression fingerling [%] | 35.4 |
| finger stretching [%] | 32.3 |
| ergotherapy [%] | 12.3 |
| medication [%] | 13.8 |
| taping [%] | 64.6 |
| climbing-related load reduction [%] | 90.8 |
| Therapy Outcome | |
| symptom duration [weeks] | 30.5 (24.3, 36.8) a,b |
| before/after therapy ratio in pain intensity during climbing [VAS/VAS] | 0.62 (0.55, 0.68) a,c |
All data are expressed as percentage proportions, unless otherwise indicated. a Data reported as the mean with 95% confidence intervals (CI) in brackets; b unknown in 5 subjects (7.69% of all patients); c unknown in 5 subjects (7.69% of all patients). VAS: visual analog scale.
Multiple regression analyses evaluating the association of the therapy outcomes “relative change in perceived pain intensity” (i.e., the before/after therapy ratio during climbing) and symptom duration with the baseline measures climbing years before therapy, average pulley thickness, climbing level higher than 7b, and perceived pain intensity in daily life and during climbing before therapy, as well as the therapy including modelling clay, compression fingerling, finger stretching, ergotherapy, medication, taping, load reduction climbing and load reduction at work.
| Model | Dependent | Predictor |
|
|
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|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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| before/after therapy ratio in pain intensity during climbing [VAS/VAS] | pain intensity in daily life before therapy [VAS] | 0.060 | 0.023 | 0.377 | 0.014 * |
|
| ||||||
|
| - | - | - | 0.769 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.296 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.247 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.057 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.315 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.702 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.781 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.822 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.987 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.286 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.846 | ||
|
| symptom duration [weeks] | climbing level higher than 7b (redpoint) [0;1] | −15.821 | 7.343 | −0.332 | 0.037 * |
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| ||||||
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| - | - | - | 0.906 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.447 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.206 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.282 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.144 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.244 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.580 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.168 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.904 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.176 | ||
|
| - | - | - | 0.301 |
a Level of significance: * p < 0.05. b Listwise deletion of missing values. VAS: visual analog scale.