| Literature DB >> 34899390 |
Robert K Szymczak1, Krzysztof Błażejczyk2.
Abstract
Background: Mountaineers must control and regulate their thermal comfort and heat balance to survive the rigors of high altitude environment. High altitudes feature low air pressure and temperatures, strong winds and intense solar radiation, key factors affecting an expedition's success. All these climatic elements stress human heat balance and survival. We assess components of human heat balance while climbing Mt. Everest. Materials andEntities:
Keywords: Everest; altitude; extremes; heat balance; mountain bioclimate; mountaineering; thermal stress
Year: 2021 PMID: 34899390 PMCID: PMC8656231 DOI: 10.3389/fphys.2021.765631
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Front Physiol ISSN: 1664-042X Impact factor: 4.566
FIGURE 1Altitude and location of meteorological stations on Mt. Everest’s Southeast Ridge Route installed during the National Geographic expedition.
List of abbreviations in alphabetical order.
| ac, clothing albedo (%) |
| ap, air pressure (hPa) |
| BMR, basic metabolic rate (W⋅m–2) |
| C, convective heat exchange (W⋅m–2) |
| E, evaporative heat loss (W⋅m–2) |
| Epot, potential values of evaporative heat loss (W⋅m–2) |
| FFT, facial frostbite time (min) |
| h, height of the Sun (°) |
| hc, coefficient of heat transfer by convection (K⋅W–1⋅m–2) |
| hc’, coefficient of heat transfer by conduction within clothing (K⋅W–1⋅m–2) |
| he, coefficient of heat transfer by evaporation (hPa⋅W–1⋅m–2) |
| Icl, thermal insulation of clothing (clo) |
| Irc, coefficient reducing convective and radiative heat transfer due to clothing (dimensionless) |
| Ie, coefficient reducing evaporative heat transfer due to clothing (dimensionless) |
| Kglob, total global solar radiation (W⋅m–2) |
| Kt, global solar radiation of the cloudless sky (W⋅m–2) |
| L, net long-wave radiation (W⋅m–2) |
| La, reverse radiation of the atmosphere, back (sky) longwave radiation (W⋅m–2) |
| Lg, thermal radiation emitted by the surface, outgoing ground longwave radiation (W⋅m–2) |
| Ls, radiation emitted by the surface of the body/clothing (W⋅m–2) |
| M, metabolic heat production (W⋅m–2) |
| Mrt, mean radiant temperature (°C) |
| Ov, oxygen volume (g⋅m–3) |
| PiO2, partial pressure of inspired oxygen (hPa) |
| Q, radiation balance (W⋅m–2) |
| R, absorbed solar radiation (W⋅m–2) |
| Res, respiration heat loss (W⋅m–2) |
| RH, relative humidity of air (%) |
| S, heat transfer balance or changes in the body’s heat content (W⋅m–2) |
| SW, water loss due to sweating (g⋅h–1) |
| Ta, air temperature (°C) |
| Tsk, average skin temperature (°C) |
| w, degree of skin moisture (dimensionless) |
| WCT, wind chill temperature (°C) |
| v, mean wind speed (m⋅s–1) |
| v’, speed of movement (m⋅s–1) |
| vmax, maximum wind speed (m⋅s–1) |
| VO2max, maximum oxygen uptake (mlO2⋅kg–1⋅min–1) |
| vp, water vapor pressure in the ambient air (hPa) |
| vp’, vapor pressure equal to 5% of RH (hPa) |
| vps, water vapor pressure on the surface of the skin (hPa) |
Characteristics of the meteorological stations installed on Everest by the National Geographic expedition.
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| Phortse | 27.8456 | 86.7472 | 3810 | 25 Apr 2019→ 31 Dec 2020 | Ta, vp, RH, v, vmax, ap, Kglob, La, Lg |
| Base camp | 27.9952 | 86.8406 | 5315 | 10 Oct 2019→ 31 Dec 2020 | Ta, vp, RH, ap |
| Camp 2 | 27.9810 | 86.9023 | 6464 | 8 May 2019→ 31 Dec 2020 | Ta, vp, RH, v, vmax, ap, Kglob, La, Lg |
| South col | 27.9719 | 86.9295 | 7945 | 21 May 2019→ 31 Dec 2020 | Ta, vp, RH, v*, vmax*, ap, Kglob, La, Lg |
| Balcony | 27.9826 | 86.9292 | 8430 | 22 May 2019→ 20 Jan 2020 | Ta, vp, RH#, v&, vmax&, ap |
Ta, air temperature; vp, air vapor pressure; RH, relative air humidity; v, mean wind speed; vmax, maximum wind speed; ap, air pressure; Kglob, global solar radiation; La, back (sky) longwave radiation; Lg, outgoing ground longwave radiation.
*Data questionable after 6 Jan 2020;
Meteorological parameters at Mt. Everest stations between 1 May 2019 and 31 May 2020: means ± standard deviation (SD), (minimum; maximum values).
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| Phortse | 646 ± 3 (637; 654) | 4 ± 5 (–12; 17) | 7.0 ± 3 (1; 13) | 78 ± 17 (7; 78) | 216 ± 68 (0; 1306) | 1 ± 0 (0; 6) | 3 ± 1 (–; 13) |
| Base Camp* | 531 ± 3 (520; 540) | –7 ± 4 (–21; 6) | 1.8 ± 1 (0.1; 6) | 45 ± 27 (3; 45) | – | – | – |
| Camp II | 460 ± 4 (446; 468) | –11 ± 6 (–31; 4) | 1.7 ± 1 (0.1; 5) | 48 ± 27 (4; 48) | 249 ± 92 (0; 1527) | 3 ± 3 (0; 23) | 7 ± 5 (–; 35) |
| South Col | 377 ± 6 (358; 387) | –22 ± 8 (–40; –1) | 0.8 ± 1 (0.1; –3) | 52 ± 24 (3; 52) | 334 ± 139 (0; 1692) | 9& ± 6 (0; 26) | 16& ± 10 (–; 44) |
| Balcony** | 355 ± 6 (334, 362) | –23 ± 9 (–45; –1) | 1.0 ± 1 (0.1; 2) | 71 ± 13 (5; 70) | – | 7# ± 2 (0; 19) | 8# ± 4 (–; 34) |
*10th Oct 2019–31st May 2020; ** 22nd May 2019–17th Jan 2020;
Mean values of meteorological variables in particular weather categories at different stations and seasons during summer (1 May–15 August) and winter (16 October–6 January) seasons.
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| Phortse | Summer | Cloudy | 1.1 | 1.5 | 15.1 | 16.6 | 645.8 | 645.3 | 9.5 | 6.8 | 94.7 | 89.8 | 11.2 | 9.9 |
| Sunny | 1.2 | 1.7 | 23.1 | 25.8 | 646.7 | 646.5 | 10.7 | 8.3 | 93.0 | 80.6 | 11.9 | 8.9 | ||
| Winter | Cloudy | 0.9 | 1.5 | 9.6 | 12.5 | 646.3 | 644.4 | –3.6 | –3.2 | 76.9 | 58.4 | 4.8 | 3.1 | |
| Sunny | 1.0 | 1.4 | 17.3 | 17.3 | 646.0 | 647.8 | –2.2 | –1.8 | 64.2 | 48.5 | 4.1 | 3.6 | ||
| Camp 2 | Summer | Cloudy | 0.9 | 2.1 | 23.8 | 19.9 | 463.3 | 462.6 | –3.8 | –8.6 | 85.6 | 59.5 | 4.1 | 2.0 |
| Sunny | 1.0 | 1.9 | 30.9 | 32.3 | 464.0 | 462.6 | –3.5 | –6.4 | 77.7 | 45.2 | 3.8 | 1.8 | ||
| Winter | Cloudy | 3.5 | 8.5 | 11.6 | 9.1 | 458.3 | 455.4 | –17.6 | –19.6 | 30.3 | 32.0 | 0.6 | 0.5 | |
| Sunny | 3.5 | 8.8 | 16.9 | 14.6 | 461.1 | 458.3 | –16.6 | –17.6 | 21.3 | 15.0 | 0.5 | 0. 3 | ||
| South Col | Summer | Cloudy | 2.3 | 8.5 | 29.4 | 40.2 | 383.8 | 382.2 | –10.9 | –14.3 | 88.1 | 57.1 | 2.4 | 1.2 |
| Sunny | 2.9 | 7.8 | 44.4 | 46.5 | 383.6 | 381.6 | –11.5 | –15.4 | 72.6 | 52.2 | 1.9 | 1.0 | ||
| Winter | Cloudy | 3.9 | 15.6 | 9.2 | 10.4 | 370.5 | 374.7 | –33.5 | –30.2 | 60.4 | 65.6 | 0.3 | 0.5 | |
| Sunny | 3.2 | 14.9 | 17.3 | 18.3 | 370.9 | 375.9 | –34.0 | –28.4 | 27.7 | 32.2 | 0.2 | 0.3 | ||
FIGURE 2Relationships between meteorological and physiological factors of Man-Environment Heat Exchange Model (MENEX-2005). Adapted from Błażejczyk (1994).
Mean values of human heat balance variables at different stations 1 May 2019 to 6 January 2020 for different combinations of metabolic heat production and clothing insulation.
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| M = 190 (W⋅m–2) | C (W⋅m–2) | –20 | –32 | –92 | –16 | –26 | –77 |
| E (W⋅m–2) | –53 | –51 | –51 | –53 | –51 | –51 | |
| L (W⋅m–2) | –13 | –18 | –29 | –11 | –14 | –24 | |
| Res (W⋅m–2) | –24 | –29 | –33 | –24 | –29 | –33 | |
| R (W⋅m–2) | 4 | 5 | 10 | 4 | 4 | 8 | |
| SW (g/hour) | 141 | 134 | 133 | 141 | 134 | 133 | |
| M = 290 (W⋅m–2) | C (W⋅m–2) | –20 | –32 | –92 | –16 | –26 | –77 |
| E (W⋅m–2) | –96 | –94 | –93 | –96 | –94 | –93 | |
| L (W⋅m–2) | –13 | –18 | –30 | –11 | –14 | –25 | |
| Res (W⋅m–2) | –37 | –45 | –50 | –37 | –45 | –50 | |
| R (W⋅m–2) | 4 | 5 | 11 | 4 | 4 | 9 | |
| SW (g/hour) | 251 | 243 | 242 | 251 | 243 | 242 | |
FIGURE 3Totals and structure of heat loss fluxes in different seasons and weather categories at particular stations. C, convective heat loss; L, net long-wave radiation in humans; Res, respiration heat loss; E, evaporative heat loss.
Average values of heat balance components and net heat storage of climbers in different weather scenarios at particular stations during summer (1 May–15 August) and winter (16 October–6 January) seasons.
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| Phortse M = 190 | Summer Icl = 3.5 | Cloudy | –16 | –21 | –15 | –16 | 3 | 3 | –22 | –23 | –53 | –53 | 142 | 141 |
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| Sunny | –15 | –20 | –15 | –16 | 4 | 5 | –21 | –23 | –54 | –54 | 144 | 144 |
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| Winter Icl = 3.5 | Cloudy | –27 | –31 | –23 | –22 | 3 | 4 | –28 | –28 | –52 | –52 | 135 | 137 |
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| Sunny | –26 | –29 | –23 | –22 | 6 | 7 | –27 | –27 | –52 | –53 | 137 | 138 |
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| Camp 2 M = 290 | Summer Icl = 3.5 | Cloudy | –17 | –28 | –20 | –22 | 5 | 4 | –42 | –45 | –93 | –93 | 243 | 243 |
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| Sunny | –18 | –26 | –20 | –21 | 7 | 7 | –42 | –44 | –94 | –94 | 244 | 244 |
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| Winter Icl = 4.5 | Cloudy | –38 | –72 | –19 | –22 | 3 | 3 | –49 | –50 | –93 | –93 | 242 | 242 |
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| Sunny | –37 | –70 | –19 | –21 | 5 | 5 | –49 | –50 | –93 | –94 | 242 | 243 |
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| South Col M = 290 | Summer Icl = 4.5 | Cloudy | –20 | –52 | –17 | –20 | 6 | 10 | –46 | –48 | –93 | –94 | 242 | 243 |
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| Sunny | –23 | –48 | –17 | –19 | 9 | 11 | –46 | –48 | –93 | –93 | 242 | 243 |
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| Winter Icl = 5.5 | Cloudy | –40 | –182 | –25 | –38 | 3 | 4 | –56 | –55 | –93 | –93 | 240 | 241 |
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| Sunny | –32 | –152 | –27 | –34 | 7 | 9 | –56 | –54 | –92 | –93 | 240 | 241 |
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FIGURE 4The dependence of the convective heat loss (C) value on the level of atmospheric pressure at different stations 1 May 2019 to 6 January 2020 for metabolic heat production of 290 W⋅m– 2 and clothing insulation 5.5 clo. C_act—actual C values observed at particular stations, C_max—potential C values from air pressure recorded at Phortse station.
Average values of oxygen volume in different weather scenarios at particular stations during summer (1 May–15 August) and winter (16 October–6 January) seasons.
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| Winter | Cloudy | 181 | 183 |
| sunny | 180 | 183 | ||
| Summer | Cloudy | 191 | 191 | |
| Sunny | 190 | 191 | ||
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| Winter | Cloudy | 137 | 140 |
| Sunny | 138 | 139 | ||
| Summer | Cloudy | 144 | 144 | |
| Sunny | 143 | 143 | ||
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| Winter | Cloudy | 117 | 119 |
| Sunny | 118 | 119 | ||
| Summer | Cloudy | 124 | 123 | |
| Sunny | 122 | 123 | ||