Eva López-Rivera1, Juan José González-Badillo2, Vanesa España-Romero3. 1. Department of Physical Education, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Castilla la Mancha, Avenida de Carlos III, s/n. 45071 Toledo, Spain. Electronic address: evalopriv@gmail.com. 2. Physical Performance and Sports Research Center, University of Pablo de Olavide, Ctra. Utrera, 1, 41013 Seville, Spain. Electronic address: jjgbadi@gmail.com. 3. MOVE-IT Research Group and Department of Physical Education, Faculty of Education Sciences, University of Cádiz, Paseo de Carlos III, 28, 11003 Cádiz, Spain; Biomedical Research and Innovation Institute of Cádiz (INiBICA) Research Unit, Puerta del Mar University Hospital, University of Cádiz, 9ª Planta Investigación Avda. Ana de Viya, 21, 11009, Cádiz, Spain. Electronic address: vanesa.espana@uca.es.
Abstract
BACKGROUND: The ability to generate high levels of force with the finger flexor muscles and sustain it for the maximum time was reported as a climbing performance factor. This study aimed to answer the question of which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in non-elite and elite rock climbers: 6, 8, 10, 12 or 14 mm. METHODS: Thirty-six climbers (10 female, 26 male; 6b-8c redpoint level) were assessed twice, one week apart. RESULTS: Systematic bias (95 % limits of agreements) was -1.84 (6.31) for HT6, -0.26 (8.83) for HT8, -1.30 (8.72) for HT10, -4.37 (9.57) for HT12, and -2.94 (9.53) for HT14 at non-elite group (all P values > 0.05 but HT12 and HT14). Among elite group, -1.38 (7.58), 0.68 (12.09), -2.20 (13.35), -0.49 (9.80) and 0.73 (10.44) was found (all P > 0.05) for HT6, HT8, HT10, HT12 and HT14, respectively. No patterns of heteroscedasticity were observed for any of the trials for non-elite and elite climbers. SIGNIFICANCE: Among all edge depths analysed, 8 mm seemed to be the most accurate edge to evaluate hanging time. Alternatively, a 10 mm hold depth could be recommended for climbers from 6b to 7c, and 12 mm for climbers from 7c+ to 8c.
BACKGROUND: The ability to generate high levels of force with the finger flexor muscles and sustain it for the maximum time was reported as a climbing performance factor. This study aimed to answer the question of which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in non-elite and elite rock climbers: 6, 8, 10, 12 or 14 mm. METHODS: Thirty-six climbers (10 female, 26 male; 6b-8c redpoint level) were assessed twice, one week apart. RESULTS: Systematic bias (95 % limits of agreements) was -1.84 (6.31) for HT6, -0.26 (8.83) for HT8, -1.30 (8.72) for HT10, -4.37 (9.57) for HT12, and -2.94 (9.53) for HT14 at non-elite group (all P values > 0.05 but HT12 and HT14). Among elite group, -1.38 (7.58), 0.68 (12.09), -2.20 (13.35), -0.49 (9.80) and 0.73 (10.44) was found (all P > 0.05) for HT6, HT8, HT10, HT12 and HT14, respectively. No patterns of heteroscedasticity were observed for any of the trials for non-elite and elite climbers. SIGNIFICANCE: Among all edge depths analysed, 8 mm seemed to be the most accurate edge to evaluate hanging time. Alternatively, a 10 mm hold depth could be recommended for climbers from 6b to 7c, and 12 mm for climbers from 7c+ to 8c.