Linear retention index approach applied to liquid chromatography coupled to triple quadrupole mass spectrometry to determine oxygen heterocyclic compounds at trace level in finished cosmetics.

In the European Union, cosmetic products are regulated by the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The Analytical Working Group of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) suggested that a new sensitive analytical method is needed to determine psoralens in finished cosmetic products. This research provides an HPLC-MS/MS method for the quality control of 20 furocoumarins, 8 coumarins and 7 polymethoxyflavones in cosmetics. Thanks to the high sensitivity of the tandem mass spectrometry detection in Multiple Reaction Monitoring mode, psoralens contained in trace have been quantified in different products. The Limits of Quantifications were in the range 0.3-74 μg L-1. A reliable identification was achieved combining the Linear Retention Index (LRI) system with the MS and MS/MS libraries. In particular, the attribution was based on the spectra similarity filtered by the LRI parameter. The robustness and reproducibility of the LRI approach was demonstrated by the comparison of the HPLC-MS/MS results here reported with those obtained in our previous study, by using an HPLC-PDA system. This method could be taken into account for quality control of furocoumarins in cosmetics, and by the main associations, such as IFRA, for the purpose of issuing new opinions.