| Literature DB >> 33980900 |
Dion Häfner1, Johannes Gemmrich2, Markus Jochum3.
Abstract
Rogue waves are dangerous ocean waves at least twice as high as the surrounding waves. Despite an abundance of studies conducting simulations or wave tank experiments, there is so far no reliable forecast for them. In this study, we use data mining and interpretable machine learning to analyze large amounts of observational data instead (more than 1 billion waves). This reveals how rogue wave occurrence depends on the sea state. We find that traditionally favored parameters such as surface elevation kurtosis, steepness, and Benjamin-Feir index are weak predictors for real-world rogue wave risk. In the studied regime, kurtosis is only informative within a single wave group, and is not useful for forecasting. Instead, crest-trough correlation is the dominating parameter in all studied conditions, water depths, and locations, explaining about a factor of 10 in rogue wave risk variation. For rogue crests, where bandwidth effects are unimportant, we find that skewness, steepness, and Ursell number are the strongest predictors, in line with second-order theory. Our results suggest that linear superposition in bandwidth-limited seas is the main pathway to "everyday" rogue waves, with nonlinear contributions providing a minor correction. This casts some doubt whether the common rogue wave definition as any wave exceeding a certain height threshold is meaningful in practice.Entities:
Year: 2021 PMID: 33980900 PMCID: PMC8115049 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-021-89359-1
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Sci Rep ISSN: 2045-2322 Impact factor: 4.379
The sea state parameters examined in this study.
| Parameter | Physical meaning | References |
|---|---|---|
| Crest-trough correlation | Correlation coefficient between wave crest heights and trough depths | [ |
| Spectral bandwidth | Spectral peak width, controls wave group dynamics | [ |
| Mean period | Mean wave period | [ |
| Rel. low-frequency energy | Relative low-frequency (swell) energy content | [ |
| Directional spread | Short-crestedness of waves | [ |
| Ursell number ( | Non-linear shallow water effects | [ |
| Benjamin–Feir index | Degree of non-linearity, modulational instability | [ |
| Excess kurtosis | Proneness to outliers of sea surface elevation | [ |
| Steepness | Weakly nonlinear corrections, wave breaking | [ |
| Significant wave height | Reference wave height, total energy | [ |
| Skewness | Shape asymmetry between wave crests and troughs | [ |
| Relative depth ( | Shallow-water effects | [ |
See Table 2 for more information about the estimation of each parameter.
Overview of how each sea state parameter is estimated from the sea surface elevation.
| Parameter | Related FOWD variable(s) | Estimation |
|---|---|---|
| Crest-trough correlation | sea_state_30m_crest_trough_correlation | See ( |
| Spectral bandwidth | sea_state_30m_bandwidth_peakedness | Peakedness (quality factor) of wave spectral density[ |
| Mean period | sea_state_30m_mean_period_spectral | |
| Rel. low-frequency energy | sea_state_30m_rel_energy_in_frequency_interval | |
| Directional spread | direction_dominant_spread_in_frequency_interval, sea_state_30m_rel_energy_in_frequency_interval | Average over frequency-dependent directional spread weighted with energy in each frequency band |
| Ursell number ( | sea_state_30m_steepness | Ursell number |
| Benjamin–Feir index | sea_state_30m_benjamin_feir_index_peakedness | Through characteristic steepness and spectral bandwidth (peakedness)[ |
| Excess kurtosis | sea_state_30m_kurtosis | Fourth standardized moment of surface elevation time series |
| Steepness | sea_state_30m_steepness | Characteristic steepness |
| Significant wave height | sea_state_30m_significant_wave_height_spectral | Significant wave height |
| Skewness | sea_state_30m_skewness | Third standardized moment of surface elevation time series |
| Relative depth ( | sea_state_30m_peak_wavelength, meta_water_depth | Relative depth |
Figure 1When looking at one sea state parameter at a time, some are better predictors for rogue wave occurrence than others. In particular, crest-trough correlation and spectral bandwidth are much more informative than e.g. Benjamin–Feir index and steepness. (a) Shows the predictive power of each parameter, which is computed from the range spanned by the curves in (b) (the variation of the rogue wave probability with each parameter).
Figure 2“Hot corners” of rogue wave activity have high crest-trough correlation, strong swells, and low steepness. Shown is the distribution of each cluster population in parameter space, and the distribution of all waves with high crest-trough correlation for comparison. Clusters are computed through decision-tree based clustering (see “Methods”), taking all parameters into account at the same time. All clusters show a higher rogue wave incidence than any univariate bin. Ranges in legend indicate 95% credible interval.
Figure 3Past sea surface elevation kurtosis is a poor predictor for rogue wave occurrence in the future. Shown is the scaling of the rogue wave probability p with kurtosis for 2 different values of time lag (a) and the resulting predictive power of various quantities depending on time lag (b). Here, time lag refers to the time between the end of the aggregation period used to compute each sea state parameter and the start of the observed wave.
Figure 4Low-frequency seas have naturally higher rogue wave activity for similar crest-trough correlations, but scale negatively with steepness and BFI. Shown is the scaling of the rogue wave probability p with some sea state parameters. Low-frequency/high-frequency conditions are all seas with relative low-frequency energy in the interval (0.8, 0.85) and (0, 0.1), respectively. Curves for are scaled by a factor of 20.
Figure 5For rogue crests, skewness, steepness, and Ursell number are the most informative parameters. Plots are identical to Fig. 1, except that they refer to crest instead of wave heights.
Beta prior parameters for p for different wave () and crest () height thresholds.
| 1 | 10,000 | |
| 1 | 1,000,000 | |
| 1 | 10,000 | |
| 1 | 1,000,000 |