Liudmila Yarovaya1, Neti Waranuch2, Wudtichai Wisuitiprot2, Watcharee Khunkitti1,3. 1. Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand. 2. Cosmetics and Natural Products Research Center, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Naresuan University, Phitsanulok, Thailand. 3. Biofilm Research Group, Faculty of Dentistry, Khon Kaen University, Khon Kaen, Thailand.
Abstract
BACKGROUND: Grape seed extract (GSE) is rich in polyphenolic compounds, particularly (+)-catechin (C) and (-)-epicatechin (EC). Strong antioxidant activity of these compounds makes GSE to be value-added to the cosmetics with anti-aging properties. However, a lack of stability in different environmental conditions makes GSE challenging for the development of photostable cosmetic sunscreen products. AIMS: To evaluate photoprotective effects of GSE on human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light and assess photostability of catechins in cream formulations containing GSE alone or in combination with octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). METHODS: MTT assay was used to assess protective effects of GSE on fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light. A photostability of C and EC in GSE and in cream formulation containing GSE was investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography and confirmed by reflection and transmission spectrophotometry using Transpore™ tapes and polymethacrylate (PMMA) plates as substrates. RESULTS: High UVA doses damaged fibroblast structure and inhibited their growth. However, GSE increased cell viability and effectively protected them from UVA damage. Photostability of C and EC was achieved by combination of GSE and OMC that also improved absorption capacity of UV filter and increased overall efficacy of formulation. PMMA plates showed better applicability for in vitro photostability testing of sunscreen formulations. However, despite the instability of Transpore® tape under heat from UV exposure, it can still be economically a substrate of alternative choice for screening. CONCLUSIONS: GSE can be used as an effective and sustainable natural resource for prevention of UV-induced skin damage providing long-term protection against premature skin aging.
BACKGROUND: Grape seed extract (GSE) is rich in polyphenolic compounds, particularly (+)-catechin (C) and (-)-epicatechin (EC). Strong antioxidant activity of these compounds makes GSE to be value-added to the cosmetics with anti-aging properties. However, a lack of stability in different environmental conditions makes GSE challenging for the development of photostable cosmetic sunscreen products. AIMS: To evaluate photoprotective effects of GSE on human dermal fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light and assess photostability of catechins in cream formulations containing GSE alone or in combination with octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC). METHODS:MTT assay was used to assess protective effects of GSE on fibroblasts irradiated with UVA light. A photostability of C and EC in GSE and in cream formulation containing GSE was investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography and confirmed by reflection and transmission spectrophotometry using Transpore™ tapes and polymethacrylate (PMMA) plates as substrates. RESULTS: High UVA doses damaged fibroblast structure and inhibited their growth. However, GSE increased cell viability and effectively protected them from UVA damage. Photostability of C and EC was achieved by combination of GSE and OMC that also improved absorption capacity of UV filter and increased overall efficacy of formulation. PMMA plates showed better applicability for in vitro photostability testing of sunscreen formulations. However, despite the instability of Transpore® tape under heat from UV exposure, it can still be economically a substrate of alternative choice for screening. CONCLUSIONS: GSE can be used as an effective and sustainable natural resource for prevention of UV-induced skin damage providing long-term protection against premature skin aging.
Authors: Kristen L Huber; José R Fernández; Corey Webb; Karl Rouzard; Jason Healy; Masanori Tamura; Jeffry B Stock; Maxwell Stock; Eduardo Pérez Journal: Molecules Date: 2021-10-20 Impact factor: 4.411
Authors: Anda Maria Baroi; Mircea Popitiu; Irina Fierascu; Ionela-Daniela Sărdărescu; Radu Claudiu Fierascu Journal: Antioxidants (Basel) Date: 2022-02-15