Marta Dąbrowska1, Izabela Nowak1. 1. Department of Applied Chemistry, Faculty of Chemistry, Adam Mickiewicz University, Poznań, Poznan, Poland.
Abstract
BACKGROUND: Objective evaluation of skin condition on the basis of noninvasive methods has become obligatory and may be a good strategy for verifying the efficiency of new cosmetic active ingredients. AIM: The aim of this study was to assess the influence of aucubin-containing cosmetic macroemulsion on skin parameters using the skin testing equipment. PATIENTS/ METHODS: The study was carried out on the group of 25 female volunteers of the mean age 27 ± 2 years. The skin parameters were measured using the following devices: Tewameter® TM 300 (transepidermal water loss, TEWL), Corneometer® CM 825 (skin hydration), Cutometer® MPA 580 (skin elasticity), Visioscan® VC 98 (skin topography), and Visioline® VL 650 (skin macrorelief). All measurements were performed on the inner part of the left forearm. RESULTS: The skin parameters measured revealed the beneficial influence of aucubin on TEWL and skin hydration level. The application of aucubin-enriched cream caused more significant improvements of all determined SELS parameters, in comparison with cream without it. An analogous tendency was noticed in the case of skin macrorelief parameters; the addiction of the active ingredient led to a decrease in the value of total wrinkle area and diminished the mean length and depth of single wrinkles. CONCLUSIONS: Noninvasive methods of skin testing have provided a possibility of objective evaluation of the action of new active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. The study has proved the positive influence of aucubin on effectiveness of cosmetic macroemulsions, diminishing TEWL, increasing skin hydration level, and improving the values of SELS and skin macrorelief parameters.
BACKGROUND: Objective evaluation of skin condition on the basis of noninvasive methods has become obligatory and may be a good strategy for verifying the efficiency of new cosmetic active ingredients. AIM: The aim of this study was to assess the influence of aucubin-containing cosmetic macroemulsion on skin parameters using the skin testing equipment. PATIENTS/ METHODS: The study was carried out on the group of 25 female volunteers of the mean age 27 ± 2 years. The skin parameters were measured using the following devices: Tewameter® TM 300 (transepidermal water loss, TEWL), Corneometer® CM 825 (skin hydration), Cutometer® MPA 580 (skin elasticity), Visioscan® VC 98 (skin topography), and Visioline® VL 650 (skin macrorelief). All measurements were performed on the inner part of the left forearm. RESULTS: The skin parameters measured revealed the beneficial influence of aucubin on TEWL and skin hydration level. The application of aucubin-enriched cream caused more significant improvements of all determined SELS parameters, in comparison with cream without it. An analogous tendency was noticed in the case of skin macrorelief parameters; the addiction of the active ingredient led to a decrease in the value of total wrinkle area and diminished the mean length and depth of single wrinkles. CONCLUSIONS: Noninvasive methods of skin testing have provided a possibility of objective evaluation of the action of new active ingredients in cosmetic formulations. The study has proved the positive influence of aucubin on effectiveness of cosmetic macroemulsions, diminishing TEWL, increasing skin hydration level, and improving the values of SELS and skin macrorelief parameters.