Claudia Battistella1, Naneki C McCallum1, Karthikeyan Gnanasekaran1, Xuhao Zhou1, Valeria Caponetti2, Marco Montalti2, Nathan C Gianneschi1. 1. Department of Chemistry, Department of Materials Science & Engineering, Department of Biomedical Engineering, Department of Pharmacology, International Institute for Nanotechnology, Simpson-Querrey Institute, Chemistry of Life Processes Institute, Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois 60208, United States. 2. Department of Chemistry "Giacomo Ciamician", University of Bologna, Via Selmi 2, 40126, Bologna, Italy.
Abstract
Human hair is naturally colored by melanin pigments, which afford myriad colors from black, to brown, to red depending on the chemical structures and specific blends. In recent decades, synthetic efforts have centered on dopamine oxidation to polydopamine, an effective eumelanin similar to the one found in humans. To date, only a few attempts at polydopamine deposition on human hair have been reported, and their translation to widespread usage and potential commercialization is still hampered by the harsh conditions employed. We reasoned that novel, mild, biocompatible approaches could be developed to establish a metal-free route to tunable, nature-inspired, long-lasting coloration of human hair. Herein, we describe synthetic and formulation routes to achieving this goal and show efficacy on a variety of human hair samples via multiple spectroscopic and imaging techniques. Owing to the mild and inexpensive conditions employed, this novel approach has the potential to replace classical harsh hair dyeing conditions that have raised concerns for several decades due to their potential toxicity.
Human hair is naturally colored by melanin pigments, which afford myriad colors from black, to brown, to red depending on the chemical structures and specific blends. In recent decades, synthetic efforts have centered on dopamine oxidation to polydopamine, an effective eumelanin similar to the one found in humans. To date, only a few attempts at polydopamine deposition on human hair have been reported, and their translation to widespread usage and potential commercialization is still hampered by the harsh conditions employed. We reasoned that novel, mild, biocompatible approaches could be developed to establish a metal-free route to tunable, nature-inspired, long-lasting coloration of human hair. Herein, we describe synthetic and formulation routes to achieving this goal and show efficacy on a variety of human hair samples via multiple spectroscopic and imaging techniques. Owing to the mild and inexpensive conditions employed, this novel approach has the potential to replace classical harsh hair dyeing conditions that have raised concerns for several decades due to their potential toxicity.
Human
hair is comprised mainly of protein, at 65–95% by
weight. Keratin, the most abundant component, is a group of insoluble
protein complexes which impart elasticity, suppleness, and resistance
to the fibers.[1] Melanin, nature’s
hair pigment, is mainly distributed in the middle layer of the hair
shaft or cortex and is embedded between keratin fibers, where it makes
up only 1–3% of human hair by weight. These nanometer-scale
granular pigments (200–800 nm) generate the naturally beautiful
colors found in human hair. Colors arise from the distribution, concentration,
and blending of two types of melanin: brown and black eumelanins,
and less commonly, red pheomelanins.[2−5] It follows then that the reduction or disappearance
of melanin from hair fibers is the phenomenon that leads to color
loss and consequent hair greying and eventually whitening.[3]Hair whitening is mainly caused by aging,
although the regulation
of hair pigmentation and pigment concentration can be affected by
numerous factors including metabolism, hair-cycle changes, body distribution
of melanins, gender differences, and the use of medicines (e.g., chemotherapy),
or by specific genetic disorders.[3,6,7] Taking these factors into account, the average age
for white hair onset is mid-30s, with 50% of people exhibiting 50%
gray hair by the time they are 50 years of age.[3,8] The
first known example of natural hair dye dates back to the ancient
Egyptians when henna plant pigments were used for hair darkening and
color reinforcement.[9] Dye technologies
are at the very origin of the chemical industry, with the first artificial
“long lasting” hair dye synthesized by L’Oréal
founder Eugène Schueller in the early 1900s.[9] Since then, hair dyes capable of providing a long lasting
and convincing gray to black transition have become popular across
cultures and nationalities, with additional colors, including those
beyond one’s genetic predisposition, desirable. Because of
such widespread use, hair dye industries are now among the most profitable
in the cosmetics sector.[10] As a matter
of fact, studies suggest that over 50% of the population in developed
countries has dyed their hair at least once in their life.[5,11−14] Despite several studies reporting the potential carcinogenicity
of certain conventional hair dye components, frequent development
of allergies in clients and colorists, and dye-induced hair damage,
the use of small molecule-based dyes in modern society continues to
expand, and the industry has made only few minor advances in its chemistry.[4,12,14−19]With the rapid expansion of nanotechnology, a field at the
intersection
of chemistry and materials science, novel creative approaches can
now be exploited for the design of new hair dyes. This approach is
even more interesting with the discovery that ancient hair dyeing
methods also relied on nanostructure deposition.[20] While the synthesis of gold nanoparticles in human hair
has been proposed as an effective way to darken white hair,[21] the long reaction time required by this protocol
(16 days) hampers its application as an effective hair dyeing method.
A much faster approach involves the use of graphene-based sheets for
coloration. Hair coated with this material showed excellent antistatic
performance and heat dissipation properties. However, the method was
similarly expensive and only produced a single color, black.[22] Although both of these nanomaterial-based methods
provide paths toward the development of innovative hair dyeing protocols,
a very interesting approach to darken hair and a desirable alternative
to current formulations would be the use of melanin to reestablish
the color of the hair fibers. In a recent example, biotechnology was
used to produce a melanin intermediate, and its spontaneous oxidation
was proposed as a novel hair dye.[23] Owing
to myriad examples in the literature describing the synthesis and
applications of a synthetic version of the naturally occurring nanosized
melanin pigment particles, a scalable and inexpensive approach is
now accessible.[24] However, human hair dyeing
using synthetic melanin has been explored only very recently, and
the reported protocols required high concentrations of potentially
toxic heavy metals such as copper and iron as chelators,[25−27] as well as very strong oxidative conditions,[28] which may not be suitable for widespread use in an at-home
or in salon applications.[29]Herein,
we demonstrate the efficient deposition of synthetic melanin
on human hair without the need for metal chelators or strong oxidants
to generate not only black/brown, but also orange/gold colorations
from blond hair. We demonstrate that different colors can be achieved
by tuning reaction conditions such as temperature, and that effective
hair dyeing can be achieved using milder conditions compared to those
previously employed for polydopamine coatings. Moreover, these conditions
are similar or even milder than those employed in conventional hair
dyeing protocols. In addition, blond and naturally red, brown, and
gray hair, as well as hair previously dyed with a very bright commercial
dye, were successfully colored to dark brown/black using this method.
These results suggest that this novel, inexpensive, mild and versatile
approach to generate nature-inspired hair pigmentation opens new opportunities
for melanin-based hair dyes, so far limited by the reaction conditions
employed, and has the potential to replace classical, harsh hair dyes
currently common in the cosmetic industry.
Results and Discussion
In humans, the biosynthesis of melanin, a rather heterogeneous
and polydisperse polymer mainly composed of catechol derivatives,
begins with the enzymatic oxidation of l-tyrosine to 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine
(l-DOPA). This process occurs inside melanocytes in specialized
organelles called melanosomes.[4,30,31] The resulting dark melanin granules are transferred to hair and
the epidermis from the melanocytes, by a process in which melanosomes
are endocytosed by epithelial cells.[31] Because
of the extraordinary properties of this class of polymer, several
efforts focus on the development of melanin-inspired materials.[32] As a result, several synthetic strategies are
now available for the preparation of this class of biopolymer.[24] In particular, to date, polydopamine-based materials
are most commonly considered as a synthetic mimic of natural eumelanin,
the darkest natural pigment of this class of biopolymer, which is
abundant in human hair and skin.[33] Synthetic
versions of eumelanin can be obtained via oxidation of commercially
available dopamine (DA) hydrochloride as well as analogues, by various
synthetic protocols (Figure ).[24,34,35]
Figure 1
Oxidation
of dopamine (DA) to polydopamine (PDA). (A) Oxidative
polymerization of DA to PDA and (B) resulting dark brown/black synthetic
melanin nanoparticles as determined by (C) scanning electron microscopy
(SEM) imaging.
Oxidation
of dopamine (DA) to polydopamine (PDA). (A) Oxidative
polymerization of DA to PDA and (B) resulting dark brown/black synthetic
melanin nanoparticles as determined by (C) scanning electron microscopy
(SEM) imaging.Synthetic approaches using the
enzymes laccase and horseradish
peroxidase, strong oxidants such as ammonium persulfate, sodium periodate
and potassium permanganate, and metal catalysis/hydrogen peroxide,
to produce a Fenton-like reaction have been widely explored and optimized
for the polymerization of dopamine.[24] Very
recently, some of these oxidation reactions have been used to deposit
polydopamine on human hair.[25,26] Reactions employing
CuSO4/H2O2 were particularly successful
as this method catalyzes both polydopamine deposition and hair binding
via metal interaction.[26] However, as previously
anticipated, these harsh conditions limit the translation of synthetic
melanin into a competitive hair dye. For biocompatibility, the auto-oxidation
of dopamine in air is the most interesting and gentle approach for
generating polydopamine (PDA) coatings or nanoparticles. This oxidation
is spontaneous when carried out under alkaline conditions (pH >
7.5)
using naturally ambient oxygen, making this method mild, inexpensive,
and scalable.[24,36] When added to an alkaline solution,
the polymerization of DA begins immediately and is accompanied by
a color change from clear and colorless, to pale brown, and finally
to dark brown and black (PDA). Hence, we envisioned dopamine self-oxidation
as the most promising approach for melanin deposition on human hair
since the use of air as an oxidant makes this method not only mild,
but also extremely inexpensive and scalable. While Tris buffer (pH
8.5) and NaOH are reagents used extensively for successful dopamine
oxidation,[24,36] ammonium hydroxide is an attractive
choice as this base is commonly used in current hair dyeing protocols.[4,37] Although some modern hair dye formulations are ammonia free, where
ammonia is generally replaced by less volatile/odorous ethanolamine
and its derivatives, these alternatives can still create adverse reactions.[38] The use of bases in conventional hair dyeing
protocols is generally needed to swell the hair cuticle, thereby allowing
dye penetration into the hair. In this work, 3% ammonium hydroxide
was selected as the initial effective concentration, which is comparable
to professional permanent hair dyes.[39] To
evaluate the performance of our method, we compared it to a previously
established protocol using CuSO4/H2O2 additives as a metal- and peroxide-based approach to polydopamine
deposition.[26] A reaction time of 2 h was
selected as this is a feasible and acceptable time for hair dyeing
in common practice. The concentration of dopamine was chosen as 5
mg/mL as it corresponds to the low end of other synthetic protocols.[26]To demonstrate the reproducibility of
this method, we purchased
blond human hair samples from two different vendors (see Methods for a description of sources). After a 2
h reaction time, both hair samples treated with different alkaline
conditions (3% NH4OH, 0.05 N NaOH, and Tris buffer pH 8.5)
showed moderate color change (mild darkening) and did not yield a
uniform color (Figure ). This result was confirmed using blond hair samples purchased from
a second vendor (Figure S1). As mentioned
above, previous studies have used metal ions to chelate polydopamine
to human hair at room temperature, and this was reproduced for comparison
to our own study (Figure ).[26] To eliminate the need for
heavy metals such as copper and iron,[39,40] which are
generally considered toxic additives,[27] we decided to employ higher reaction temperatures to speed the reaction.
These conditions have been shown to enhance the deposition of melanin
coatings in other applications[41] and are
used regularly in a salon setting or at home using a hair dryer. Hence,
to increase the rate of the process from days to hours, and to obtain
a more uniform melanin deposition, we investigated the effect of reaction
temperature on hair dyeing. As an initial test, we found that successful
reactions were performed in solution at physiological temperature
(37–40 °C). UV–Vis spectroscopy was used to monitor
the formation of polydopamine in solution at different reaction times
and for different reaction conditions at both room temperature (RT)
as well as at 37–40 °C (Figure and Figure S2). These spectra clearly show an increased intensity of the band
around 400 nm for all polymerizations carried out at higher temperature,
thereby confirming that the polymerization rate can be enhanced by
increasing the temperature. The color of the obtained solutions clearly
supports this result as the reaction performed at 37–40 °C
yielded visibly darker colors at shorter time periods (Figure S3). Higher temperatures yielded darker
and more uniform hair colors (Figure B and Figure S1B), mimicking
results obtained using the metal-containing protocol (sample 4 in Figure ). Different shades
of brown color can be better visualized in the optical microscopy
images (Figures C
and 1C). Among the conditions tested, hair
samples treated with ammonium or sodium hydroxide showed the darkest
colors, thus indicating the efficiency of the dopamine oxidation in
basic environments. In particular, success when using the bases was
encouraging owing to their current role in commercial products. Moreover,
these first results suggest that hair darkening can be achieved avoiding
the use of H2O2, which is generally included
in permanent hair dye formulations at concentrations of approximately
6%.[42]
Figure 2
Higher temperature enhances polydopamine
deposition and hair darkening.
(A, B) Photographs of hair samples before (1) and after dyeing with
polydopamine using 3% NH4OH (2), 0.05 N NaOH (3), 10 mM
CuSO4/15 mM H2O2 (4), Tris buffer
pH 8.5 (5), as well as color of the resulting polydopamine solutions.
Dopamine polymerizations were carried out for 2 h at (A) room temperature
and (B) 37–40 °C. (C) Optical microscopy images of the
hair samples dyed at 37–40 °C are also reported. (D) UV–Vis
spectra of solutions obtained after 2 h dopamine polymerization using
3% NH4OH and 0.05 N NaOH at either room temperature or
at 37–40 °C. In every case, hair samples were washed five
times with water and three times with a 10% shampoo solution prior
to imaging/analysis (see Methods for protocols
and for hair sample descriptions from alternative vendors).
Higher temperature enhances polydopamine
deposition and hair darkening.
(A, B) Photographs of hair samples before (1) and after dyeing with
polydopamine using 3% NH4OH (2), 0.05 N NaOH (3), 10 mM
CuSO4/15 mM H2O2 (4), Tris buffer
pH 8.5 (5), as well as color of the resulting polydopamine solutions.
Dopamine polymerizations were carried out for 2 h at (A) room temperature
and (B) 37–40 °C. (C) Optical microscopy images of the
hair samples dyed at 37–40 °C are also reported. (D) UV–Vis
spectra of solutions obtained after 2 h dopamine polymerization using
3% NH4OH and 0.05 N NaOH at either room temperature or
at 37–40 °C. In every case, hair samples were washed five
times with water and three times with a 10% shampoo solution prior
to imaging/analysis (see Methods for protocols
and for hair sample descriptions from alternative vendors).Following initial studies, temperature and ammonium
concentrations
were adjusted to optimize conditions and obtain various hair colors
(Figure ). Hair darkening
can be observed both by visual inspection (Figure A), as well as by color intensity measurements
(Figure B) and analysis
of RGB color components (Figure S4). Higher
concentrations of ammonium hydroxide in the reaction mixture (6% vs
3%) correlate with slightly darker brown/black colors that resemble
natural dark brown hair as well as hair dyed with dark brown commercially
available hair dye (Figure C,D). We note that 6% ammonium hydroxide is still within the
tolerated ammonium hydroxide concentrations, which in the case of
professional use, can reach 10%.[39] These
results indicate that synthetic melanin can be used successfully as
a simple, biomimetic, two-ingredient hair dye without the need for
metals or harsh reagents. We employ natural hair pigment mimics and
utilize a commercial reagent, ammonia, while neglecting the need for
complex chemical mixtures, which have been shown to be potential carcinogenic
and certainly allergenic in some cases.
Figure 3
Hair color can be tuned
by changing temperature and NH4OH concentration. (A) Hair
darkening using NH4OH at room
temperature (R.T., 3% NH4OH) and at 37–40 °C
(3% and 6% NH4OH) as compared to untreated blond hair (1).
(B) Image analysis (color intensity) of photograph (A), showing hair
darkening, from blond (1), to dark blond (2), and dark brown (3, 4).
(C) Comparison between the color of untreated blond hair (1), hair
dyed using 3% NH4OH (2), 6% NH4OH (3), as well
as hair dyed using a commercial dark brown hair dye (4) and naturally
pigmented dark brown hair (5). (D) Corresponding optical micrographs
of individual hair fibers. RGB color analysis of hair samples in photograph
A) are included in Supporting Information.
Hair color can be tuned
by changing temperature and NH4OH concentration. (A) Hair
darkening using NH4OH at room
temperature (R.T., 3% NH4OH) and at 37–40 °C
(3% and 6% NH4OH) as compared to untreated blond hair (1).
(B) Image analysis (color intensity) of photograph (A), showing hair
darkening, from blond (1), to dark blond (2), and dark brown (3, 4).
(C) Comparison between the color of untreated blond hair (1), hair
dyed using 3% NH4OH (2), 6% NH4OH (3), as well
as hair dyed using a commercial dark brown hair dye (4) and naturally
pigmented dark brown hair (5). (D) Corresponding optical micrographs
of individual hair fibers. RGB color analysis of hair samples in photograph
A) are included in Supporting Information.Comparison studies performed at
room temperature using CuSO4/H2O2 (10 mM CuSO4, and 15
mM H2O2) showed a dark-brown coloration (Figure ). During experimentation,
we discovered that these reaction solutions immediately turned red
and that both the use of different reaction temperatures as well as
H2O2 concentrations (Figure S3) could yield variable brown and red shades. In particular,
for longer reaction times, the use of a higher concentration of H2O2 resulted in richer red-orange colors. When hair
samples were dyed using this protocol, higher concentrations of H2O2 resulted in a bright orange color (Figure and Figure S5 and S6) resembling that of natural
red hair (Figure E).
Although addition of copper into the reaction mixture produced the
brightest orange color (Figure B,F,G), coupling H2O2 to the NH4OH-based protocol also resulted in either dark (37–40
°C, Figure C
and Figure S7) or light gold shades (room
temperature, Figure D and Figure S7), as compared to the darker
brown colors previously obtained (Figure ). These results suggest that, together with
temperature and base concentrations, H2O2 can
be added to the formulations up to 3% to obtain a wider range of shades.
In particular, H2O2 concentrations (<3%,
1 M) lower than those generally employed in permanent hair dyeing
protocols (up to 6%, 2 M),[5,43] can shift the classic
dark brown/black eumelanin color toward clearer and warmer shades.
Figure 4
Effect
of H2O2 and temperature on hair shades
from red, to dark or light gold hues. (A) Photograph of blond hair
and hair dyed with polydopamine using (B) 10 mM CuSO4/1
M H2O2 at room temperature (2) and at 37–40
°C (3). (C, D) Effect of H2O2 (50 mM (4,
7), 100 mM (5, 8) and 1 M (6, 9)) on hair dyed with polydopamine and
3% NH4OH solutions. The reactions were performed at (C)
37–40 °C (4, 5, 6) and at (D) room temperature (7, 8,
9). (E) Photograph of natural red hair (10). Optical images of the
corresponding single hair fibers are shown in the lower panel. (F)
Image analysis (color intensity) and (G) RGB color ratios of photographs
of hair 1–6. Color analysis of samples dyed at room temperature
(7, 8, 9) are included in Supporting Information. All dyeing reactions were carried out for 2 h, and hair samples
were washed five times with water and three times with a 10% shampoo
solution prior to imaging/analysis.
Effect
of H2O2 and temperature on hair shades
from red, to dark or light gold hues. (A) Photograph of blond hair
and hair dyed with polydopamine using (B) 10 mM CuSO4/1
M H2O2 at room temperature (2) and at 37–40
°C (3). (C, D) Effect of H2O2 (50 mM (4,
7), 100 mM (5, 8) and 1 M (6, 9)) on hair dyed with polydopamine and
3% NH4OH solutions. The reactions were performed at (C)
37–40 °C (4, 5, 6) and at (D) room temperature (7, 8,
9). (E) Photograph of natural red hair (10). Optical images of the
corresponding single hair fibers are shown in the lower panel. (F)
Image analysis (color intensity) and (G) RGB color ratios of photographs
of hair 1–6. Color analysis of samples dyed at room temperature
(7, 8, 9) are included in Supporting Information. All dyeing reactions were carried out for 2 h, and hair samples
were washed five times with water and three times with a 10% shampoo
solution prior to imaging/analysis.Initially, as noted above, all experiments were carried out using
a washing step after the dye application: five times with water and
three with shampoo (see Methods for description).
Next, we evaluated the color persistence after a multiple wash protocol.
Here, an important distinction needs to be made between semipermanent
and permanent hair dyes. While the former washes away within 4–6
weeks of application in the case of washing every other day,[5,42] the latter is persistent for 6 weeks with washing every other day.
On the basis of a washing schedule of every 2 days for 5 weeks, we
designed a follow up study.This test for color persistence
involved 5 wash cycles with water,
followed by 18 with shampoo. Specifically, after washing five times
with water, we applied a 10% shampoo solution to wash the hair samples,
and this procedure was repeated 18 separate times (Methods for the exact protocol). Subsequently, retention of
hair color was evaluated by photographic imaging (Figure A) with color intensity/RGB
analysis (Figure B,D
and Figure S8). In the initial test, we
used hair dyed using dopamine (5 mg/mL) and 6% NH4OH for
2 h at 37–40 °C (i.e., conditions used in Figure C, sample 3). These conditions
were chosen because, among all the different colors obtained, this
one best mimics the color of hair dyed with a commercial, dark-brown
hair dye (Figure C).
The synthetic, melanin-based dye resists these washes without any
evidence of color change or fading, and the color persistence is similar
to that of hair dyed with the permanent, commercially available hair
dye (Figure S9). We note that while the
soiled solution resulting from washing hair dyed with the commercial
dye turned brown, the solution derived from washes of the melanin-dyed
hair was colorless (Figure C). These results confirm that our methodology provides a
permanent hair dye that persists at least as well as commercial products.
Figure 5
Retention
of hair color after 18 washes. (A) Photographs of hair
dyed with polydopamine using 6% NH4OH for 2 h at 37–40
°C before and after 18 washes with a 10% shampoo solution and
(B) color intensity analysis. (C) Comparison between the color of
the soiled solution from synthetic melanin-dyed hair and hair dyed
using a commercial dark brown hair dye. (D) RGB color ratios (photograph
A) of hair before and after washes.
Retention
of hair color after 18 washes. (A) Photographs of hair
dyed with polydopamine using 6% NH4OH for 2 h at 37–40
°C before and after 18 washes with a 10% shampoo solution and
(B) color intensity analysis. (C) Comparison between the color of
the soiled solution from synthetic melanin-dyed hair and hair dyed
using a commercial dark brown hair dye. (D) RGB color ratios (photograph
A) of hair before and after washes.Although dyeing with conventional permanent hair dyes leads to
long lasting colors, the harsh conditions employed and the penetration
of the small molecule dyes into the cortex make these methods invasive.
Hence, with the next series of experiments, we aimed to investigate
the mechanism of melanin deposition, its localization within the hair,
and the morphology of the resulting colored fibers. First, changes
in chemical composition at the hair surface were evaluated by FTIR-ATR
spectroscopy. This technique mainly probes the surface of hair since
the evanescent wave penetrates only a couple of micrometers in depth.
Therefore, changes in the typical hair spectra are indicative of changes
in the chemical composition of the hair surface. IR spectra of hair
samples derived from two different vendors and dyed with polydopamine
under different reaction conditions (Figure S10A,B) revealed only very minor changes, located in the amide I and amide
II bands regions (1690–1600 cm–1 and 1575–1480
cm–1, respectively), which derives from overlapping
with typical polydopamine bands (Figure S10C).[24] While these results confirm the presence
of polydopamine on the hair surface, insights into the dyeing mechanism
can be obtained using multiple imaging techniques (Figure ). Specifically, SEM analysis
suggested that all oxidations carried out under basic conditions (Tris
buffer, NH4OH and NaOH) result in the formation of nanostructures
that can be observed before and after (Figure S11) purification of the polydopamine solutions.
Figure 6
Oxidation in
alkaline conditions results in PDA nanoparticles coating
the hair surface as determined by SEM, optical microscopy, and TEM
imaging. (A) SEM images of untreated blond hair, natural dark-brown
hair, and blond hair, dyed with dopamine (3% NH4OH and
0.05 N NaOH), scale bars 25 μm (top row) and 2 μm (second
row). (B) Optical microscopy (scale bars 40 μm) and (C) TEM
images of hair cross sections. Black arrows and (D) higher magnification
TEM images highlight the PDA coatings obtained using NH4OH (1) and NaOH (2) as oxidants.
Oxidation in
alkaline conditions results in PDA nanoparticles coating
the hair surface as determined by SEM, optical microscopy, and TEM
imaging. (A) SEM images of untreated blond hair, natural dark-brown
hair, and blond hair, dyed with dopamine (3% NH4OH and
0.05 N NaOH), scale bars 25 μm (top row) and 2 μm (second
row). (B) Optical microscopy (scale bars 40 μm) and (C) TEM
images of hair cross sections. Black arrows and (D) higher magnification
TEM images highlight the PDA coatings obtained using NH4OH (1) and NaOH (2) as oxidants.Oxidation performed at room temperature or using CuSO4/H2O2 did not produce any of these structures.
These results support the finding that (i) polydopamine deposition
carried out with and without the use of metals occurs via two different
mechanisms and that (ii) the formation of melanin nanoparticles obtained
using alkaline conditions can be catalyzed by heat. As a result, while
hair samples treated with NH4OH and NaOH were coated by
these nanoparticles (Figure A and Figure S12), hair treated
with CuSO4/H2O2 underwent film deposition
(Figure S12). Optical microscopy analysis
of cross sections of hair treated with NH4OH and NaOH highlighted
both a darker color as well as a darker profile (Figure B) as compared to untreated
hair. TEM imaging confirmed that this darker profile derives from
the nanostructured melanin coatings (Figure C,D, black arrows highlight the presence
of the synthetic melanin layer). Although a few dark nanostructures
resembling those found in natural dark-brown hair were observed in
the cuticle layers of melanin-coated hair, TEM images confirmed that
the dyeing mechanism mainly occurs via nanoparticle deposition without
deep penetration into the hair cortex. All together, these results
indicate that the proposed protocol allows successful hair dyeing
in a permanent manner without compromising the inner hair composition
and structure, and more importantly, without altering the mechanical
properties of the hair (Figure S13 and Table S1).Finally, the goal of the last experiment was to demonstrate
that
polydopamine deposition can be applied to very diverse hair samples.
We aimed to determine if this approach could be considered a universal
hair dyeing method. We collected hair samples of four very different
colors (natural red, brown, gray, and dyed purple) from human donors
of different ages and ethnicities. We carried out dopamine polymerization
on these human hair samples at 37–40 °C for 2 h using
3% NH4OH. Photographs of hair and optical microscopy images
of hair before and after dyeing (Figure ) reveal successful hair darkening for all
of the tested samples. The natural brown and red hair (Figure A) had not been chemically
treated (dyed or bleached) before. The bright purple hair sample (Figure B) had been previously
bleached and was dyed with a commercial purple hair dye in the 2 weeks
before the experiment. The successful darkening of such different
colors and diverse hair samples highlights the efficacy and versatility
of this method. Furthermore, the ability to cover naturally gray hair
(Figure C) and even
to tune the color toward their original warmer brown shades (sample
9, Figure C) by employing
H2O2-containing protocols (Figure ) confirms the potential of
synthetic melanin as a viable hair dye.
Figure 7
Polydopamine deposition
is compatible with a wide range of hair
substrates. (A) Natural virgin red (1) and brown (3) hair and (B)
hair dyed with a purple hair dye (5) were used as hair substrates.
Dopamine oxidation was carried out using 3% NH4OH as shown
in Figure . (C) Virgin
gray hair (7) was dyed using 3% NH4OH (8) and 3% NH4OH/100 mM H2O2 (as for sample 5 in Figure ). In every case,
reactions were carried out at 37–40 °C for 2 h and hair
samples were washed five times with water and three times with a 10%
shampoo solution prior to imaging/analysis.
Polydopamine deposition
is compatible with a wide range of hair
substrates. (A) Natural virgin red (1) and brown (3) hair and (B)
hair dyed with a purple hair dye (5) were used as hair substrates.
Dopamine oxidation was carried out using 3% NH4OH as shown
in Figure . (C) Virgin
gray hair (7) was dyed using 3% NH4OH (8) and 3% NH4OH/100 mM H2O2 (as for sample 5 in Figure ). In every case,
reactions were carried out at 37–40 °C for 2 h and hair
samples were washed five times with water and three times with a 10%
shampoo solution prior to imaging/analysis.
Conclusion
Despite concerns regarding the possible toxicity of commercially
available hair dyes, their usage continues to grow, and the lack of
modern approaches makes this branch of cosmetics a very interesting
target for novel and rapidly rising nanomaterial-based approaches.
In this work, we demonstrate, for the first time, the deposition of
synthetic melanin onto human hair without the need for metals and
using similar or milder conditions as compared to generally employed
methods used for commercially available hair dyes. This innovative
technique allows hair darkening within 2 h at physiological temperature
(37–40 °C). Increasing concentration of base resulted
in a darker color, whereas the addition of H2O2 yielded warmer and orange/gold, natural-looking shades. The resulting
colors were comparable to those of hair dyed with commercially available
products, and more importantly, they resembled natural hair colors.
Morphological studies suggest that synthetic melanin was deposited
onto the hair surface in a nanoparticulate form. This colored layer
was found to be resistant to at least 18 washes and did not alter
the mechanical properties of the hair. These combined results point
out the relevance of this novel, mild and effective method and the
potential of biomaterials-based approaches in hair and cosmetics,
and most importantly, we specifically demonstrate performance arising
by engineering systems to perform like natural materials, in this
case, employing synthetic melanin as an additive precisely where melanin
is naturally used.
Methods
Dopamine hydrochloride was
obtained from Frontier Scientific, and
sodium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide 28–30% (w/v) solution
were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. 30 % H2O2 (w/v) stock solution was purchased from Fisher Scientific. To demonstrate
the reproducibility of this method, blond human hair samples were
purchased from two different vendors. While most of the experiments
were carried out using either blond or dark-brown hair obtained from
Jerome Krause Fashion Hair (Evanston, IL), some experiments were repeated
using hair samples purchased from a second vendor (Emosa # 613 blond
and #2 dark brown) and are reported in the Supporting Information. Natural brown, red, and gray hair that had not
been dyed or bleached before, as well as purple-dyed hair were kindly
donated. UV–Vis spectroscopy measurements were performed using
an Agilent Cary 100 UV–Vis spectrometer using quartz cuvettes.
Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images were acquired on a Hitachi
S4800-II cFEG SEM and a Hitachi SU8030, and transmission electron
microscopy (TEM) images were acquired on a Hitachi 2300 (scanning
TEM) and a JEOL ARM 300 F. Hair samples were imaged using a Leica
BM6B widefield optical microscope. FTIR-ATR spectroscopy of both polydopamine
and hair samples was performed using a Nexus 870 spectrometer (Thermo
Nicolet), and hair mechanical properties were determined using an
A. Sintech 20G tensile test machine. No unexpected or unusually high
safety hazards were encountered in this work.
Hair Dyeing
Hair
dyeing was carried out using 5 mg/mL
monomer (dopamineHCl) in water, and hair samples were approximately
2 cm long. The volume of the solution was selected in order to cover
the hair sample completely (generally 1 or 2 mL depending on hair
size). Either alkaline (Tris buffer pH 8.5 10 mM, 3% or 6% NH4OH and 0.05 N NaOH) or oxidizing conditions (10 mM CuSO4 and 100/50/15 mM or 1 M H2O2) were
used for this process. The reaction solutions were stirred either
at room temperature or at 37–40 °C. After 2 h, hair samples
were washed five times with water.
Hair Washing
Hair
samples were washed with a 10% shampoo
solution (Ceramol, Unifarco Biomedical) three times and finally rinsed
with water prior to imaging/analysis. During each wash, hair was immersed
in the shampoo solution and vortexed for 30 s. To test the persistence
of the color after multiple washes, hair samples were washed an additional
15 times (in total, 5 times with water and 18 with shampoo). Hair
color was compared before and after washing.
UV–Vis Spectroscopy
of Polydopamine Solutions
UV–Vis time-dependent spectra
were recorded by withdrawing
10 μL of polydopamine solution from each sample at different
time intervals. The samples were then diluted in 1 mL of water and
analyzed.
SEM of Polydopamine
After a 2 h reaction, polydopamine
solutions obtained using the above-reported conditions were drop casted
and evaporated onto a silicon wafer substrate at room temperature.
The rest of the sample was centrifuged, and the dark-brown precipitate
was resuspended in water. This process was repeated three times. All
samples were coated with 6 nm osmium and imaged using a Hitachi SU8030
cFEG SEM and a Hitachi SU8030 at 10 kV and 6 kV.
SEM of Hair
Samples
Hair samples were adhered onto
aluminum SEM stubs by pressing lightly onto carbon tape using a clean
glove. The samples were coated with 10 nm osmium and imaged using
a Hitachi SU8030 cFEG SEM at 10 kV.
Preparation of Hair Samples
for TEM
Hair samples were
placed in silicon molds in Embed812 resin and polymerized at 65 °C
for 48 h. Ultrathin sections of ca. 80 nm thickness were obtained
with an ultramicrotome (Ultracut-S, Leica) and a diamond knife (Diatome).
Sections were placed on copper mesh grids or on slotted copper grids
with a Formvar/carbon film (EMS).
Preparation of Hair Cross
Sections for Optical Microscopy
Hair was embedded with optimal
cutting temperature (OCT) medium,
and 10 μm sections were cryosectioned at −20 °C
and deposited onto glass microscope slides.
Mechanical Properties of
Hair
Hair samples with a diameter
between 75 and 105 μm were used for this study. Stress–strain
curves are reported as an average of five different measurements.
RGB Color Analysis of Hair Photographs
MatLab software
was used to determine RGB color components and intensities in order
to differentiate the color of hair dyed using different conditions
as well as to investigate color fading after multiple washes.
Authors: Philippe Walter; Eléonore Welcomme; Philippe Hallégot; Nestor J Zaluzec; Christopher Deeb; Jacques Castaing; Patrick Veyssière; René Bréniaux; Jean-Luc Lévêque; Georges Tsoucaris Journal: Nano Lett Date: 2006-10 Impact factor: 11.189