| Literature DB >> 32509937 |
Abstract
This data article provides an extensive and complete description of the colorants and dyes identified in fibre samples taken from the historical textiles that were described in the article "Universal analytical method for characterization of yellow and related natural dyes in liturgical vestments from Krakow" by K. Lech [1]. Natural organic dyes, for centuries used to dye fibres, contain usually from a few to several dyeing compounds. The correct identification of the dye requires at first the identification of their colouring components using sensitive and selective analytical techniques. One of this technique is high-performance liquid chromatography combined with spectrophotometric detection and detection using tandem mass spectrometry with electrospray ionization (HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS). The HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS protocol was used to identify natural dyes present in 89 yellow, orange, brown and green fibres taken from 15th- to 17th-century silk textiles used in vestments belonging to the collections of seventeen churches in Krakow, Poland.Entities:
Keywords: Colourants; High-performance liquid chromatography; Natural dyes; Tandem mass spectrometry; Textiles
Year: 2020 PMID: 32509937 PMCID: PMC7265043 DOI: 10.1016/j.dib.2020.105735
Source DB: PubMed Journal: Data Brief ISSN: 2352-3409
Colourants and dyes identified in the textile fibres from liturgical vestments (dated fron the 15th to the 17th centuries)
| Storage location | Textile number* | Object* | Origin and dating | Fibre colour | Identified compounds | Original dye | Remarks |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 1 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Adalbert | No. 2 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | green | sawwort + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 3 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 3 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Michael the Archangel and St Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr (Monastery Church of the Pauline Fathers) | No. 4 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | blueish green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 6 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | traces of synthetic dye | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 11 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | brown | fustin, ellagic acid, | young fustic + traces of indigo/woad | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 11 | dalmatic, front orphrey | Europe, the 15th cent. 1 | brown | fustin, ellagic acid, | young fustic | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 29 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 15th-16th cent. 1 | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Camaldolese Monks) | No. 31 | chasuble, textile from sides | N/A, the 16th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 52 | cope, textile of cope proper | Europe, the 16th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 58 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 16th cent. 1 | yellow | digalloylglucose, braz1, | brazilwood + weld + ellagitannins | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 69 | maniple, textile from the endings | Europe, the 16th cent. or c. 16001 | green | weld + indigo/woad | traces of synthetic dyes | |
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 70 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, c. 1600 1 | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Stephen | No. 72 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 16th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Stephen | No. 84 | chasuble, textile from orphrey | Europe, the 16th cent. 1 | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Barbara | No. 91 | burse, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | genistin, | sawwort + indigo/woad + traces of dyer's broom | |
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 96 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | carminic acid, | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 101 | parura, lining | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Barbara | No. 105 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin di- | weld + indigo/woad | |
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 112 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Stephen | No. 116 | chasuble, textile from sides | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | weld + dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Mark | No. 118 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Andrew (Monastery Church of the Poor Clares) | No. 120 | stole, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 127 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 128 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 130 | chasuble, around-neck-opening textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | traces of synthetic dyes | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 133 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | traces of synthetic dyes | |
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 134 | chasuble, textile from sides on back | N/A, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 140 | pall, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | brown | gallic acid, digalloylglucose, | ellagitannins (of unknown origin) + traces of indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Barbara | No. 143 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 145 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | |
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 160 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld or dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 161 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Peter and St Paul | No. 164 | cope, textile from hood | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | carminic acid, | dyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of cochineal (of unknown origin) | traces of synthetic dyes |
| Church of the Conversion of St Paul (Monastery Church of the Lazarists) | No. 166 | cope, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | presence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – green |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 172 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, luteolin | sawwort + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Anne | No. 175 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Corpus Christi Basilica | No. 181 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | blue | carminic acid, | dyer's broom | presence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – yellow |
| Church of St Joseph (Monastery Church of the Bernardine Nuns) | No. 188 | damask, textile fragment | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Michael the Archangel and St Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr (Monastery Church of the Pauline Fathers) | No. 190 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, luteolin | dyer's broom + sawwort + indigo/woad | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 191 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 195 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 196 | stole, textile from the endings | Europe, the 17th cent. | red | braz1, braz2, | brazilwood + annatto | presence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – yellow or orange |
| Church of St Andrew (Monastery Church of the Poor Clares) | No. 198 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | ||
| Church of St Barbara | No. 200 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 201 | chasuble, textile from orphrey and around-neck-opening textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | |
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 206 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 208 | chasuble, textile on back sides and insert in front orphrey | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | brazilwood + young fustic | ||
| Church of St Barbara | No. 208 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | orange | braz1, braz2, braz3, | brazilwood + dyer's broom | |
| Church of St Peter and St Paul | No. 223 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | red | carminic acid, | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | presence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – green |
| Church of St Peter and St Paul | No. 224 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Anne | No. 227 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 231 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | dyer's broom + young fustic | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 231 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | dyer's broom + annatto + young fustic | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 232 | chalice velum, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | dyer's broom + traces of young fustic | ||
| Church of St Andrew (Monastery Church of the Poor Clares) | No. 245 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Mark | No. 249 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 250 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | weld | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 260 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellow | braz3, fustin, braz5, luteolin 7- | young fustic | traces of synthetic dye |
| Church of St Peter and St Paul | No. 269 | stole, silk main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Church of St Anne | No. 271 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | orange | braz1, braz2, braz3, | brazilwood + annatto | |
| Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Carmelites) | No. 287 | chasuble, textile from orphrey | N/A, c. 1700 | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of the Assumption of the Holy Mother and St Venceslaus (Monastery Church of the Cistercians) | No. 288 | chasuble, orphrey and around-neck-opening textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 292 | chasuble, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of the Conversion of St Paul (Monastery Church of the Lazarists) | No. 293 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | sawwort + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Michael the Archangel and St Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr (Monastery Church of the Pauline Fathers) | No. 298 | chasuble, textile from sides | Near East, the 15th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, carminic acid, | sawwort + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | |
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 299 | stole, main textile | Near East, the 16th cent. | green | unknown yellow flavonoid dye II + bastard hemp (unknown yellow flavonoid dye III) + indigo/woad + traces of madder (of unknown origin) | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 299 | chasuble, textile from sides | Near East, the 16th cent. | green | unknown yellow flavonoid dye II + bastard hemp (unknown yellow flavonoid dye III) + indigo/woad + traces of madder (of unknown origin) | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | No. 317 | chasuble, orphrey and around-neck-opening textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Camaldolese Monks) | No. 320 | stole, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin | unknown yellow flavonoid dye II + bastard hemp (unknown yellow flavonoid dye III) + indigo/woad | |
| Church of the Annunciation to the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Capuchins) | No. 321 | chasuble, textile from front sides | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Anne | No. 322 | burse, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 326 | chalice velum, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | luteolin/kaempferol | Persian berries + indigo/woad | |
| Church of the Annunciation to the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Capuchins) | No. 327 | chalice velum, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | greenish blue | rutin, luteolin/kaempferol | Persian berries + indigo/woad | |
| Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Carmelites) | No. 328 | chasuble, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | Persian berries + indigo/woad | traces of synthetic dyes | |
| Church of St Barbara | No. 329 | chasuble, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, rutin, | larkspur (unknown yellow flavonoid dye I) + indigo/woad | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 330 | parura, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, rutin, | larkspur (unknown yellow flavonoid dye I) + indigo/woad | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | No. 332 | chalice velum, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | green | chlorogenic acid, rutin, | larkspur (unknown yellow flavonoid dye I) + indigo/woad | |
| Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans) | N/A (D-31 | maniple, main textile | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | unknown yellow flavonoid dye II + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | N/A (F-11/3 | chasuble, around-neck-opening textile | N/A | yellow | brazilwood + annatto | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | N/A (F-14/2 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | N/A (F-15/1 | chasuble, textile from sides | Europe, the 17th cent. | green | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | ||
| Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans) | N/A (F-20/3 | stole, main textile | Europe, the 16th-17th cent. | green | weld + indigo/woad | ||
| Corpus Christi Basilica | N/A (KBC-11/2 | stole, lining | Europe, the 17th cent. | yellowish green | luteolin | dyer's broom + indigo/woad | |
| Corpus Christi Basilica | N/A (KBC-18 | stole, main textile | N/A | green | chlorogenic acid, luteolin | dyer's broom + sawwort + indigo/woad | |
| Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Carmelites) | N/A (KnP-8 | chasuble, main textile | N/A | green | weld + indigo/woad + traces of orchil | ||
| Church of the Conversion of St Paul (Monastery Church of the Lazarists) | N/A (M-7 | chalice velum, main textile | Near East, the 17th cent. | violet | brazilwood + weld + young fustic + traces of cochineal (of unknown origin) | presence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – yellow or orange |
– main compounds; bold– secondary compounds; non-highlighted – minor compounds; glc – glucoside, hex – hexoside, glcr – glucuronide, braz1 − brazilwood compound 1, braz2 − brazilwood compound 2, braz3 − brazilwood compound 3, braz4 − brazilwood compound 4, braz5 − brazilwood compound 5, braz6 − brazilwood compound 6, madder1 – madder compound 1, madder2 – madder compound 2, madder3 – madder compound 3, orchil1 – orchil compound 1, orchil2 – orchil compound 2, orchil3 – orchil compound 3, orchil4 – orchil compound 4;
detailed data presented in “KATALOG TKANIN z zasobów kościelnych Krakowa z czasów od XV do końca XVII” (in Polish), Natalia Krupa (ed.), Kraków (in printing); textile origin and dating have been established by: 1 N. Krupa,
A. Warzecha
K. Moskal
B. Biedrońska-Słota
initial inventory number of the object
| Subject | Analytical Chemistry |
| Specific subject area | Identification of yellow, orange and brown dyes natural in historical textiles |
| Type of data | Raw LC-MS data |
| How data were acquired | High-performance liquid chromatograph (1220 Infinity II LC System, Agilent Technologies) coupled with two spectrophotometric detectors (1220 Compact VWD and 1200 VWD, Agilent Technologies) and tandem mass spectrometric detector (6460 Triple Quad LC/MS with JetStream Technology, Agilent Technologies) |
| Data format | Raw and analysed |
| Parameters for data collection | Yellow, orange, brown and green fibres from 15th- to 17th-century silk textiles used in the vestments belonging to the collections of seventeen churches in Krakow |
| Description of data collection | Fibre extracts were analysed on the presence of natural colourants by HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS using positive and negative dynamic multiple reaction monitoring (dMRM) modes. Brown and green fibres were extracted twice with DMSO and with acidic-methanol solution, whereas yellow and orange fibres were extracted only using the second procedure. |
| Data source location | Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Warsaw, Poland |
| Data accessibility | With the article |
| Related research article | Lech K., Universal analytical method for characterization of yellow and related natural dyes in liturgical vestments from Krakow, Journal of Cultural Heritage (In Press) [1] |