Literature DB >> 32509937

Dataset supporting the identification of natural dyes in yellow, orange, brown and green fibres from Krakow liturgical vestments.

Katarzyna Lech1.   

Abstract

This data article provides an extensive and complete description of the colorants and dyes identified in fibre samples taken from the historical textiles that were described in the article "Universal analytical method for characterization of yellow and related natural dyes in liturgical vestments from Krakow" by K. Lech [1]. Natural organic dyes, for centuries used to dye fibres, contain usually from a few to several dyeing compounds. The correct identification of the dye requires at first the identification of their colouring components using sensitive and selective analytical techniques. One of this technique is high-performance liquid chromatography combined with spectrophotometric detection and detection using tandem mass spectrometry with electrospray ionization (HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS). The HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS protocol was used to identify natural dyes present in 89 yellow, orange, brown and green fibres taken from 15th- to 17th-century silk textiles used in vestments belonging to the collections of seventeen churches in Krakow, Poland.
© 2020 The Author.

Entities:  

Keywords:  Colourants; High-performance liquid chromatography; Natural dyes; Tandem mass spectrometry; Textiles

Year:  2020        PMID: 32509937      PMCID: PMC7265043          DOI: 10.1016/j.dib.2020.105735

Source DB:  PubMed          Journal:  Data Brief        ISSN: 2352-3409


Specifications table

Value of the data

These data support identification of natural dyes in historical vestments by identification of the colourants using HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS The dataset informs on natural dyes used in historical textiles from the 15th to the 17th centuries These data can be valuable for conservators and art historians The dataset increases knowledge on the historical vestments from Krakow churches

Data Description

Twofold extracts of 89 yellow, orange, brown and green fibres taken from historical textiles have been examined by HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS using previously developed method [1] in dynamic multiple reaction monitoring (dMRM) mode. The silk textiles are dated from the 15th to the 17th centuries and they have been used in vestments belonging to the collections of seventeen Krakow churches. The DMSO extracts have been analysed using positive ion mode, whereas methanol-water-formic acid extracts have been examined with both positive and negative ion modes. Identification of the colorants have been based on the compatibility of their retention times and MRM transitions with standards and natural dye markers. Acquired results have led to identification of natural dyes in the examined fibres, even though some of them were re-dyed with synthetic dyes. All samples, their details and attributions, as well as identified colorants and dyes are listed in Table 1. Original dataset is available in the repository [2].
Table 1

Colourants and dyes identified in the textile fibres from liturgical vestments (dated fron the 15th to the 17th centuries)

Storage locationTextile number*Object*Origin and dating*Fibre colourIdentified compoundsOriginal dyeRemarks
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 1chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 15th cent. 1greenluteolin C-hex, carminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St AdalbertNo. 2chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 15th cent. 1greenluteolin 7-O-hex, luteolinO-glcr(1), luteolinO-glcr(2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotinsawwort + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 3chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 15th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, acacetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 3stole, main textileEurope, the 15th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, acacetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Michael the Archangel and St Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr (Monastery Church of the Pauline Fathers)No. 4chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 15th cent. 1blueish greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 6maniple, main textileEurope, the 15th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woadtraces of synthetic dye
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 11stole, main textileEurope, the 15th cent. 1brownfustin, ellagic acid, sulfuretin, isatin, indigotinyoung fustic + traces of indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 11dalmatic, front orphreyEurope, the 15th cent. 1brownfustin, ellagic acid, sulfuretinyoung fustic
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 29chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 15th-16th cent. 1greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Camaldolese Monks)No. 31chasuble, textile from sidesN/A, the 16th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 52cope, textile of cope properEurope, the 16th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 58stole, main textileEurope, the 16th cent. 1yellowdigalloylglucose, braz1, braz2, braz3, braz4, luteolin di-O-hex, braz5, luteolin 7-O-glc, ellagic acid, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolinbrazilwood + weld + ellagitannins
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 69maniple, textile from the endingsEurope, the 16th cent. or c. 16001greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woadtraces of synthetic dyes
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 70chasuble, main textileEurope, c. 1600 1greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St StephenNo. 72chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 16th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St StephenNo. 84chasuble, textile from orphreyEurope, the 16th cent. 1greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St BarbaraNo. 91burse, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr(1), luteolinO-glcr(2), luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinsawwort + indigo/woad + traces of dyer's broom
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 96chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greencarminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, biochanin A, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 101parura, liningEurope, the 17th cent.greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St BarbaraNo. 105chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent.greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotinweld + indigo/woad
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 112chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent.greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St StephenNo. 116chasuble, textile from sidesNear East, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, apigenin, isatin, indigotinweld + dyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St MarkNo. 118chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Andrew (Monastery Church of the Poor Clares)No. 120stole, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 127stole, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 128maniple, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 130chasuble, around-neck-opening textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genisteinO-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, biochanin A, indigotin, isatindyer's broom + indigo/woadtraces of synthetic dyes
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 133maniple, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woadtraces of synthetic dyes
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 134chasuble, textile from sides on backN/A, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, biochanin A, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 140pall, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2browngallic acid, digalloylglucose, ellagic acid, isatin, indigotinellagitannins (of unknown origin) + traces of indigo/woad
Church of St BarbaraNo. 143chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 145maniple, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genisteinO-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, orchil3, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 160chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-C-hex, luteolin 7-C-glc, apigenin 7-C-glc, luteolin C-hex (2), C-methylluteolin C-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld or dyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 161chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St Peter and St PaulNo. 164cope, textile from hoodEurope, the 17th cent. 2greencarminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of cochineal (of unknown origin)traces of synthetic dyes
Church of the Conversion of St Paul (Monastery Church of the Lazarists)No. 166cope, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenchlorogenic acid, luteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-glcr (1), luteolin O-glcr (2), apigenin7-O-glc, O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, apigenin, diosmetin, biochanin A, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woadpresence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – green
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 172stole, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenchlorogenic acid, luteolin C-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr (1), luteolinO-glcr(2), luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotinsawwort + indigo/woad
Church of St AnneNo. 175chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Corpus Christi BasilicaNo. 181chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2bluecarminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, ellagic acid, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenindyer's broompresence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – yellow
Church of St Joseph (Monastery Church of the Bernardine Nuns)No. 188damask, textile fragmentEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin C-hex, carminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-glcr (1), luteolin O-glcr (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St Michael the Archangel and St Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr (Monastery Church of the Pauline Fathers)No. 190chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenchlorogenic acid, luteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr (1), luteolinO-glcr(2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + sawwort + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 191chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 195chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 196stole, textile from the endingsEurope, the 17th cent. 2redbraz1, braz2, braz3, braz4, braz5, braz6, bixinbrazilwood + annattopresence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – yellow or orange
Church of St Andrew (Monastery Church of the Poor Clares)No. 198chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, orchil3, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Church of St BarbaraNo. 200chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 2greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 201chasuble, textile from orphrey and around-neck-opening textileEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genisteinO-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 206chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 2greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 208chasuble, textile on back sides and insert in front orphreyEurope, the 17th cent. 2yellowbraz1, braz2, braz3, braz4, braz5, braz6, sulfuretinbrazilwood + young fustic
Church of St BarbaraNo. 208chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 2orangebraz1, braz2, braz3, braz4, carminic acid, genistin, braz5, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein, biochanin Abrazilwood + dyer's broom
Church of St Peter and St PaulNo. 223stole, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3redcarminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woadpresence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – green
Church of St Peter and St PaulNo. 224chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3yellowluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St AnneNo. 227chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 3greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (2), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin, genistein, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 231chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3yellowgenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genisteinO-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, sulfuretin, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl etherdyer's broom + young fustic
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 231maniple, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3yellowgenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, sulfuretin, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, bixindyer's broom + annatto + young fustic
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 232chalice velum, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3yellowgenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, sulfuretin, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl etherdyer's broom + traces of young fustic
Church of St Andrew (Monastery Church of the Poor Clares)No. 245chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St MarkNo. 249chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent. 3greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 250stole, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3yellowluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetinweld
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 260stole, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3yellowbraz3, fustin, braz5, luteolin 7-O-glc, fisatin, sulfuretin, madder1young fustictraces of synthetic dye
Church of St Peter and St PaulNo. 269stole, silk main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3greenluteolin C-hex, carminic acid, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, genistein, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St AnneNo. 271maniple, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3orangebraz1, braz2, braz3, braz4, braz5, braz6, bixinbrazilwood + annatto
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Carmelites)No. 287chasuble, textile from orphreyN/A, c. 1700 3greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, apigenin, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of the Assumption of the Holy Mother and St Venceslaus (Monastery Church of the Cistercians)No. 288chasuble, orphrey and around-neck-opening textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, isatin, indigotindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 292chasuble, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of the Conversion of St Paul (Monastery Church of the Lazarists)No. 293stole, main textileEurope, the 17th cent. 3greenluteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr(1), luteolin O-glcr (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, isatin, indigotinsawwort + indigo/woad
Church of St Michael the Archangel and St Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr (Monastery Church of the Pauline Fathers)No. 298chasuble, textile from sidesNear East, the 15th cent. 4greenchlorogenic acid, carminic acid, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr (1), luteolinO-glcr(2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, acacetin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, indigotin, indirubinsawwort + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 299stole, main textileNear East, the 16th cent. 4greenrutin, hyperoside, luteolin 7-O-glc, kaempferolO-hex-dhex, kaempferol 3-O-glc, unknown (577), luteolin, datiscetin, unknown (621), unknown (591), biochanin A, unknown (299), madder2, madder3, isatin, indigotin, indirubinunknown yellow flavonoid dye II + bastard hemp (unknown yellow flavonoid dye III) + indigo/woad + traces of madder (of unknown origin)
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 299chasuble, textile from sidesNear East, the 16th cent. 4greenrutin, hyperoside, luteolin 7-O-glc, kaempferolO-hex-dhex, kaempferol 3-O-glc, unknown (577), luteolin, datiscetin, unknown (621), unknown (591), biochanin A,unknown (299), madder2, madder3, isatin, indigotin, indirubinunknown yellow flavonoid dye II + bastard hemp (unknown yellow flavonoid dye III) + indigo/woad + traces of madder (of unknown origin)
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)No. 317chasuble, orphrey and around-neck-opening textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, acacetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Camaldolese Monks)No. 320stole, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenluteolin C-hex, rutin, hyperoside,luteolin 7-O-glc, kaempferolO-hex-dhex, kaempferol 3-O-glc, ellagic acid, unknown(577), luteolin, datiscetin, unknown(621), unknown (591), biochanin A, unknown (299), isatin, indigotin, indirubinunknown yellow flavonoid dye II + bastard hemp (unknown yellow flavonoid dye III) + indigo/woad
Church of the Annunciation to the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Capuchins)No. 321chasuble, textile from front sidesNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St AnneNo. 322burse, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 326chalice velum, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenluteolin/kaempferol O-hex-dhex-dhex, quercitrin, rhamnocitrin O-(hex-dhex-dhex), luteolin, kaempferol, biochanin A, rhamnocitrin, emodin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinPersian berries + indigo/woad
Church of the Annunciation to the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Capuchins)No. 327chalice velum, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenish bluerutin, luteolin/kaempferol O-hex-dhex-dhex, kaempferol O-hex-dhex, apigenin 7-O-glc, rhamnocitrin O-(hex-dhex-dhex), luteolin, biochanin A, biochanin A, rhamnocitrin, emodin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinPersian berries + indigo/woad
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Carmelites)No. 328chasuble, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenrutin, hyperoside, luteolin/kaempferolO-hex-dhex-dhex, kaempferolO-hex-dhex, quercitrin, apigenin 7-O-glc, rhamnocitrinO-(hex-dhex-dhex), luteolin, biochanin A, rhamnocitrin, emodin, isatin, indigotinPersian berries + indigo/woadtraces of synthetic dyes
Church of St BarbaraNo. 329chasuble, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenchlorogenic acid, rutin, hyperoside, luteolin 7-O-glc, kaempferol 3-O-glc, isorhamnetin 3-O-glc, isatin, indigotin, indirubinlarkspur (unknown yellow flavonoid dye I) + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 330parura, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenchlorogenic acid, rutin, hyperoside, luteolin 7-O-glc, kaempferol 3-O-glc, isorhamnetin 3-O-glc, isatin, indigotinlarkspur (unknown yellow flavonoid dye I) + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)No. 332chalice velum, main textileNear East, the 17th cent. 4greenchlorogenic acid, rutin, hyperoside, luteolin 7-O-glc, kaempferol 3-O-glc, isorhamnetin 3-O-glc, isatin, indigotinlarkspur (unknown yellow flavonoid dye I) + indigo/woad
Basilica of Holy Trinity (Monastery Church of the Dominicans)N/A (D-31#)maniple, main textileEurope, the 17th cent.greenluteolinC-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr(1), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, isatin, indigotinunknown yellow flavonoid dye II + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)N/A (F-11/3#)chasuble, around-neck-opening textileN/Ayellowbraz1, braz2, braz3, braz4, braz5, braz6, isatin, indigotin, bixinbrazilwood + annatto
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)N/A (F-14/2#)chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent.greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)N/A (F-15/1#)chasuble, textile from sidesEurope, the 17th cent.greengenistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, genistein O-hex, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Church of St Francis of Assisi (Monastery Church of the Franciscans)N/A (F-20/3#)stole, main textileEurope, the 16th-17th cent.greenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad
Corpus Christi BasilicaN/A (KBC-11/2#)stole, liningEurope, the 17th cent.yellowish greenluteolin C-hex, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (1), apigenin 7-O-glc, O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + indigo/woad
Corpus Christi BasilicaN/A (KBC-18#)stole, main textileN/Agreenchlorogenic acid, luteolin C-hex, rutin, genistin, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-glcr (1), luteolinO-glcr(2), luteolin O-hex (1), luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, genistein, luteolin methyl ether, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, indigotin, indirubindyer's broom + sawwort + indigo/woad
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Monastery Church of the Carmelites)N/A (KnP-8#)chasuble, main textileN/Agreenluteolin di-O-hex, luteolin 7-O-glc, apigenin 7-O-glc, luteolin O-hex (2), O-methylluteolin O-glcr, luteolin, apigenin, diosmetin, isatin, orchil1, orchil2, orchil3, orchil4, indigotin, indirubinweld + indigo/woad + traces of orchil
Church of the Conversion of St Paul (Monastery Church of the Lazarists)N/A (M-7#)chalice velum, main textileNear East, the 17th cent.violetcarminic acid, luteolin di-O-hex, braz5, luteolin 7-O-glc, luteolinO-glcr (1), luteolinO-glcr(2), sulfuretin, luteolin, apigeninbrazilwood + weld + young fustic + traces of cochineal (of unknown origin)presence of synthetic dye, original fibre colour – yellow or orange

– main compounds; bold– secondary compounds; non-highlighted – minor compounds; glc – glucoside, hex – hexoside, glcr – glucuronide, braz1 − brazilwood compound 1, braz2 − brazilwood compound 2, braz3 − brazilwood compound 3, braz4 − brazilwood compound 4, braz5 − brazilwood compound 5, braz6 − brazilwood compound 6, madder1 – madder compound 1, madder2 – madder compound 2, madder3 – madder compound 3, orchil1 – orchil compound 1, orchil2 – orchil compound 2, orchil3 – orchil compound 3, orchil4 – orchil compound 4;

detailed data presented in “KATALOG TKANIN z zasobów kościelnych Krakowa z czasów od XV do końca XVII” (in Polish), Natalia Krupa (ed.), Kraków (in printing); textile origin and dating have been established by: 1 N. Krupa,

A. Warzecha

K. Moskal

B. Biedrońska-Słota

initial inventory number of the object

Colourants and dyes identified in the textile fibres from liturgical vestments (dated fron the 15th to the 17th centuries) – main compounds; bold– secondary compounds; non-highlighted – minor compounds; glc – glucoside, hex – hexoside, glcr – glucuronide, braz1 − brazilwood compound 1, braz2 − brazilwood compound 2, braz3 − brazilwood compound 3, braz4 − brazilwood compound 4, braz5 − brazilwood compound 5, braz6 − brazilwood compound 6, madder1 – madder compound 1, madder2 – madder compound 2, madder3 – madder compound 3, orchil1 – orchil compound 1, orchil2 – orchil compound 2, orchil3 – orchil compound 3, orchil4 – orchil compound 4; detailed data presented in “KATALOG TKANIN z zasobów kościelnych Krakowa z czasów od XV do końca XVII” (in Polish), Natalia Krupa (ed.), Kraków (in printing); textile origin and dating have been established by: 1 N. Krupa, A. Warzecha K. Moskal B. Biedrońska-Słota initial inventory number of the object

Experimental Design, Materials, and Methods

The 89 silk fibres (yellow, orange, brown and green) were taken from 15th- to 17th-century silk textiles used in vestments belonging to the collections of seventeen Krakow churches (all samples are listed in Table 1). Brown and green fibres were extracted twice, using two extraction methods consecutively, the first one with dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO), and the second one with acidic-methanol extractant. Yellow and orange fibres were extracted only with the second procedure. Extraction procedure have been described in detail by Lech [1]. Separation of the colorants was carried out using a 1220 Infinity II LC Systems (Agilent Technologies, USA), whereas their identification was achieved with two spectrophotometric detectors, a 1220 Compact Variable Wavelength Detector (Agilent Technologies, Germany) and a 1200 Variable Wavelength Detector (Agilent Technologies, Germany), as well as with a 6460 Triple Quad tandem mass spectrometric detector with electrospray ionization Jet Stream ion source (Agilent Technologies, USA). Analytes were separated by a Zorbax SB-Phenyl rapid resolution column (4.6 × 150 mm, 3.5 μm, 80 Å, Agilent Technologies) protected by a Zorbax SB-Phenyl precolumn (4.6 × 12.5 mm, 5.0 µm, Agilent Technologies). Spectrophotometric detection was performed at various wavelengths depending on the analyzed dye (280, 400, 450, 480, 500, 550, 580 or 600 nm). Mass spectrometric data were acquired in dynamic multiple reaction monitoring (dMRM) modes of negative and positive ions. Parameters of the method were described by Lech [1]. The analyses were controlled and processed by a MassHunter Workstation software (Agilent Technologies, USA).

Declaration of Competing Interest

The author declares that she has no known competing financial interests or personal relationships which have, or could be perceived to have, influenced the work reported in this article.
SubjectAnalytical Chemistry
Specific subject areaIdentification of yellow, orange and brown dyes natural in historical textiles
Type of dataRaw LC-MS dataTable
How data were acquiredHigh-performance liquid chromatograph (1220 Infinity II LC System, Agilent Technologies) coupled with two spectrophotometric detectors (1220 Compact VWD and 1200 VWD, Agilent Technologies) and tandem mass spectrometric detector (6460 Triple Quad LC/MS with JetStream Technology, Agilent Technologies)
Data formatRaw and analysed
Parameters for data collectionYellow, orange, brown and green fibres from 15th- to 17th-century silk textiles used in the vestments belonging to the collections of seventeen churches in Krakow
Description of data collectionFibre extracts were analysed on the presence of natural colourants by HPLC-UV-Vis-ESI MS/MS using positive and negative dynamic multiple reaction monitoring (dMRM) modes. Brown and green fibres were extracted twice with DMSO and with acidic-methanol solution, whereas yellow and orange fibres were extracted only using the second procedure.
Data source locationFaculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Warsaw, Poland
Data accessibilityWith the articleRepository name: Mendeley DataData identification number: 10.17632/w24kygn7p8.1Direct URL to data: https://doi.org/10.17632/w24kygn7p8.1
Related research articleLech K., Universal analytical method for characterization of yellow and related natural dyes in liturgical vestments from Krakow, Journal of Cultural Heritage (In Press) [1]
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1.  A Mass Spectrometry-Based Approach for Characterization of Red, Blue, and Purple Natural Dyes.

Authors:  Katarzyna Lech; Emilia Fornal
Journal:  Molecules       Date:  2020-07-15       Impact factor: 4.411

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