S Silva1, M Ferreira1, A S Oliveira1, C Magalhães1, M E Sousa2,3, M Pinto2,3, J M Sousa Lobo1,4, I F Almeida1,4. 1. Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Echnology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, 4050-313, Portugal. 2. Laboratório de Química Orgânica e Farmacêutica, Departamento de Ciências Químicas, Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade do Porto, Porto, 4050-313, Portugal. 3. Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental (CIIMAR/CIMAR), Edifício do Terminal de Cruzeiros do Porto de Leixões, Universidade do Porto, Av. General Norton de Matos s/n4050-208, Matosinhos, Portugal. 4. UCIBIO, REQUIMTE, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Porto, 4050-313, Portugal.
Abstract
OBJECTIVE: Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition. METHODS: Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018. RESULTS: Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018. CONCLUSION: This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.
OBJECTIVE: Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition. METHODS: Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018. RESULTS: Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018. CONCLUSION: This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.
Authors: Diana I S P Resende; Mariana C Almeida; Bruna Maciel; Helena Carmo; José Sousa Lobo; Carlotta Dal Pozzo; Sara M Cravo; Gonçalo P Rosa; Aida Kane-Pagès; Maria do Carmo Barreto; Isabel F Almeida; Maria Emília de Sousa; Madalena M M Pinto Journal: Molecules Date: 2020-06-16 Impact factor: 4.411