Addressing the conundrums of p-phenylenediamine hair dye allergy by applying Friedmann's principles of contact sensitization.

In the first conundrum, permanent hair dyeing involves the use of aromatic amines such as p-phenylenediamine (PPD), whose oxidation is pivotal to the dyeing process, but also generates potent allergens. Despite prolonged efforts by industry to search for safer alternatives, hair dyeing is still reliant on this type of aromatic amine. In the second conundrum, patch testing with 1% PPD remains the most useful screen for hair dye contact allergy. However, there is a very small but real risk of actively sensitizing the patient. Lowering the PPD concentration below 1% significantly reduces test sensitivity and diagnostic utility. Here, we argue that by applying Friedmann's principles of contact sensitization each conundrum can be addressed from a new perspective. These principles indicate that, when the exposed area of skin is small (<1 cm2 ), induction of contact allergy is sharply reduced, whereas elicitation of allergy is unaffected. Careful reflection on this principle suggests that we can predict where hair dye sensitization is most likely to occur, indicates a strategy to reduce the chance of contact sensitization occurring in consumers as a result of hair dyeing, and how we might mitigate the risk of active sensitization resulting from diagnostic patch testing.