Confocal Raman microspectroscopy as an alternative method to investigate the extraction of lipids from stratum corneum by emulsifiers and formulations.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the impact of emulsifiers and formulations on intercellular lipids of porcine stratum corneum (SC) and evaluate confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) as an alternative method in this research context. To this end, four different formulations were used: three conventional creams that contained ionic and/or non-ionic emulsifiers and one surfactants-free emulsion stabilized by a polymeric emulsifier. Additionally, all emulsifiers were tested in aqueous solution/dispersion in the respective concentrations as present in the formulations. CRM and HPTLC were used to analyse changes in SC lipid content after treatment. Furthermore, lipid extraction was visualized by fluorescence staining and SC thickness was measured by CRM and light microscopy. Various emulsifiers and emulsifier mixtures showed different impact on SC lipid content and SC thickness, while none of the tested formulations had any effect on SC lipids. Emulsifiers and their mixtures that reduced the lipids content also reduced SC thickness, indicating lipid extraction is the reason for SC thinning. Results from CRM and conventional methods showed a strong positive correlation for both lipid content and SC thickness measurements. With easy sample preparation and fast analytical readout, CRM has the potential to be a standardized analytical method for skin lipids investigation.