Keun Taek Choi1, Jun Ho Kim1, Hyung Taek Cho1, Soon Sung Lim2, Sun Soon Kwak3, Young Jun Kim1. 1. Department of Food and Biotechnology, Korea University, Sejong, Korea. 2. Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Hallym University, Chuncheon, Korea. 3. Department of Medical Cosmetology, Chungcheong University, Chungbuk, Korea.
Abstract
BACKGROUND: Chrysanthemum indicum, an oriental medicinal plant, has been shown to display a variety of pharmacological activities including antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. AIMS: In this study, we evaluated the ability of C. indicum extracts to inhibit in vitro tyrosinase activity and the skin care effects of cosmetic formulations containing 0.5% C. indicum water extract in human volunteers. PATIENTS/ METHODS: The formation of dopachrome from L -dopa by mushroom tyrosinase was observed after treatments with C. indicum extracts. The volunteers received placebo (no extract) or test (0.5% C. indicum water extract) cosmetic cream and applied it on their face three times a day for 6 weeks. Biophysical skin parameters were measured every 2 weeks. RESULTS: Chrysanthemum indicum methanol and water extracts dose dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity, and the effects of methanol extract were similar to those of kojic acid, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Clinical evaluations revealed that application of cosmetic formulations containing C. indicum water extract time dependently reduced melanin levels over 6 weeks, whereas the placebo group showed no effect. No changes in moisture, elasticity, wrinkles, evenness, and pore size were observed in either group. HPLC-DAD-ESIMS analyses revealed that luteolin and acacetin-7-O-rutinoside are the major flavonoid compounds in C. indicum water extract. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that C. indicum water extract could be applied as a natural skin-whitening agent for functional cosmetic uses, due to its melanin-reducing efficacy.
BACKGROUND:Chrysanthemum indicum, an oriental medicinal plant, has been shown to display a variety of pharmacological activities including antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. AIMS: In this study, we evaluated the ability of C. indicum extracts to inhibit in vitro tyrosinase activity and the skin care effects of cosmetic formulations containing 0.5% C. indicum water extract in human volunteers. PATIENTS/ METHODS: The formation of dopachrome from L -dopa by mushroom tyrosinase was observed after treatments with C. indicum extracts. The volunteers received placebo (no extract) or test (0.5% C. indicum water extract) cosmetic cream and applied it on their face three times a day for 6 weeks. Biophysical skin parameters were measured every 2 weeks. RESULTS:Chrysanthemum indicummethanol and water extracts dose dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity, and the effects of methanol extract were similar to those of kojic acid, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Clinical evaluations revealed that application of cosmetic formulations containing C. indicum water extract time dependently reduced melanin levels over 6 weeks, whereas the placebo group showed no effect. No changes in moisture, elasticity, wrinkles, evenness, and pore size were observed in either group. HPLC-DAD-ESIMS analyses revealed that luteolin and acacetin-7-O-rutinoside are the major flavonoid compounds in C. indicum water extract. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that C. indicum water extract could be applied as a natural skin-whitening agent for functional cosmetic uses, due to its melanin-reducing efficacy.