Historical and archaeological textiles: an insight on degradation products of wool and silk yarns.

The characterisation of micro-samples from works of art and archaeological residues is a particularly complex task, due to the fact that only a relatively low amount of material is available for sampling, and compounds both derived from the target analytes and the matrix can be simultaneously present. Thus, sensitive, selective and reliable analytical procedures need to be developed. This paper presents the optimisation of an instrumental procedure based on liquid chromatography with mass spectrometric detection, which allows for determining selected analytes (anthraquinones, tannins, flavonoids), along with their known degradation products: phenolic acids. The instrumental parameters were optimised in terms of selecting the best ionisation source (APCI and ESI were compared), choosing the compound-dependant MS parameters and enhancing selectivity and sensitivity (SIM and MRM analyses were compared). The proposed procedure proved to be sensitive and selective, with limits of detection (0.4-20 ng/mL). The analytical procedure was validated by characterising reference materials, i.e. dyed and undyed woollen and silk yarns, both freshly prepared and artificially aged. Particularly, the study focused on the determination of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, and on the correlation between its relative amounts with respect to ageing time. The optimised procedure was also applied to historical samples and proved fundamental in unravelling the complex composition of black dyed yarns collected from a medieval tapestry. The much degraded yarns were dyed with a tannin based dye, extracted from gallnuts, alder bark or sumac; the less degraded ones were coloured by superimposing colours with cochineal, madder, weld and indigo dye baths, and eventually by adding gallo-tannins as well.