Growth factors specifically alter hair follicle cell proliferation and collagenolytic activity alone or in combination.

A three-dimensional culture model for isolated murine pelage hair follicles in a type I collagen gel has been utilized to study the effects of selected growth factors on follicle cell proliferation and release of collagenolytic factors. Cultured follicle organoids differentially express cytokeratins 6 and 14 in a pattern suggesting they contain cells of the outer root sheath, inner root sheath and follicle matrix. Using incorporation of [3H]thymidine as a measure of proliferation, follicle organoids show a peak of DNA synthesis between day 1 and 5 of culture, depending on plating density, and then have a low rate of DNA synthesis. Thymidine incorporation is stimulated by transforming growth factor-alpha (TGF-alpha) in a dose-dependent response. Only peripheral cells presumably of the outer root sheath, incorporate thymidine in basal or stimulated conditions. TGF-beta 1 and TGF-beta 2 inhibit constitutive cell proliferation and oppose growth stimulation by TGF-alpha. Hair follicles lyse the collagen gel matrix when exposed to certain cytokines. Epidermal growth factor (EGF) and TGF-alpha stimulate gel lysis, but TGF-beta 1, TGF-beta 2 and cholera toxin do not. Other skin-derived cells, such as interfollicular epidermal cells, dermal fibroblasts, or combinations thereof, do not lyse gels in this culture model even when exposed to growth factors. Combinations of EGF or TGF-alpha with TGF-beta 1 or TGF-beta 2 are synergistic for collagenase release. These cytokines stimulate release of multiple species of matrix metalloproteinases, but the 92-kDa and 72 kDa type IV procollagenases and their activated derivatives predominate on zymograms. In cytokine-stimulated follicles, both peripheral and centrally located cells in the organoids express the 72-kDa type IV collagenase and a similar immunostaining pattern is present in developing follicles in vivo. Thus growth factors appear to work in concert for certain hair follicle responses and in opposition for others. These combined actions may play a role in different phases of hair follicle development that require cell replication and invasion into the deeper dermis.