What are meters measuring?

There is increasing pressure on manufacturers of cosmetic products to provide data to support claims. Data are available from many sources including historical (published literature), laboratory data, cell culture experiments and human studies. Undoubtedly, human studies are the most reliable, and there are a wide range of tests available. Many meters have been developed for measuring different aspects of skin physiology but an understanding of these devices is essential, otherwise the data generated is of little value. There is some confusion as to what exactly some meters measure, an example of which is transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water content (hydration) of the stratum corneum. Measurement of TEWL is used mainly to support claims that a product may, in the short or long term, improve or repair the barrier function of skin. It is not an indicator of hydration of the stratum corneum. One way to measure hydration is to look for the changes in electrical properties of the stratum corneum that the increased water content produces, i.e. measure capacitance or conductance. It is important that we do not loose sight of the fact that meters may measure something that is imperceptible to the consumer or has no meaning to them. Reliance only on devices that give numbers may lead to problems. An example of a study where three facial cosmetic products were subjected to perceptual tests and to a standard volunteer test for moisturization will be discussed. The relationship between any measured parameter, and what it means to the consumer, needs to be understood. A moisturization claim may be technically supported by a study using a device such as the Corneometer. However, a 20% increase in water content almost certainly does not represent a 20% better moisturization as far as the consumer is concerned. The way forward is to relate the two approaches to product testing during product development. Hopefully, this will allow the product development process to be more systematic.