Nonlinear evolution of surface gravity waves over highly variable depth.

New nonlinear evolution equations are derived that generalize those presented in a Letter by Matsuno [Phys. Rev. Lett. 69, 609 (1992)]] and a terrain-following Boussinesq system recently deduced by Nachbin [SIAM J Appl. Math. 63, 905 (2003)]]. The regime considers finite-amplitude surface gravity waves on a two-dimensional incompressible and inviscid fluid of, highly variable, finite depth. A Fourier-type operator is expanded in a wave steepness parameter. The novelty is that the topography can vary on a broad range of scales. It can also have a complex profile including that of a multiply valued function. The resulting evolution equations are variable coefficient Boussinesq-type equations. The formulation is over a periodically extended domain so that, as an application, it produces efficient Fourier (fast-Fourier-transform algorithm) solvers.