Ceramide analogue 14S24 ((S)-2-tetracosanoylamino-3-hydroxypropionic acid tetradecyl ester) is effective in skin barrier repair in vitro.

Stratum corneum ceramides are fundamental for maintaining the skin barrier properties. Their content is decreased in some skin diseases, e.g. atopic dermatitis, and ceramide supplementation is one of the therapeutic approaches. In the present study we have designed novel ceramide analogue 14S24 ((S)-2-tetracosanoylamino-3-hydroxypropionic acid tetradecyl ester) as a potential barrier-repairing agent. We report a convenient two-step synthesis of this analogue with high yields. The ability of 14S24 to repair the disturbed skin barrier was evaluated in vitro on the porcine skin. After 2h application of 14S24 on the skin disrupted by lipid extraction, the permeability decreased significantly almost to the values of the native skin. The compound is effective in 0.1% aqueous suspension and its effect is comparable with physiological skin lipids under the same condition. The comparison of 14S24 and skin ceramides was made via computer modelling and the in silico physico-chemical parameters are reported. We suggest that allylic hydroxyl, that is essential for the apoptogenic activity of ceramides, is not a necessary component of the skin barrier-forming ceramides. The main result of this study is to demonstrate that simpler and easier-to-synthesise ceramide analogues could be effective in the skin barrier repair.