Degumming of silk fabric with several proteases.

A crêpe silk fabric was treated with different alkaline (3374-L, GC 897-H), neutral (3273-C), and acid (EC 3.4 23.18) proteases with the aim to study their effectiveness as degumming agents. Proteases were used under optimum conditions of pH and temperature, while enzyme dosage (0.05-2 U/g fabric) and treatment time (5-240 min) were changed in order to study the kinetics of sericin removal. Degumming loss with soap and alkali was 27 wt.%. The maximum amount of sericin removed in 1 h was 17.6, 24, and 19 wt.% for 3374-L (2 U/g fabric), GC 897-H (1U/g fabric), and 3273-C (0.1 U/g fabric), respectively. Under the experimental conditions adopted, EC 3.4 23.18 was almost ineffective as a degumming agent. Degumming loss increased as a function of the treatment time, reaching a value of 25 wt.% with 1 U/g fabric of 3374-L. The morphological analysis showed that sericin was completely removed from the warp yarns of the crêpe fabric, while the highly twisted weft yarns still exhibited the presence of sericin deposits within the most internal parts of the close fibre texture. The chromatographic pattern of soluble sericin peptides changed as a function of the kind of enzyme used, enzyme dosage, and treatment time. A mixture of peptides from 5 to 20 kDa in weight, with a weight-average molecular weight of about 12 kDa was obtained.