Effects of fatty acids, fatty amines and propylene glycol on rat stratum corneum lipids and proteins in vitro measured by fourier transform infrared/attenuated total reflection (FT-IR/ATR) spectroscopy.

Fourier transform infrared/attenuated total reflection (FT-IR/ATR) spectroscopy was used to examine the effect of fatty acids, fatty amines and propylene glycol (PG) on the molecular mobility of rat stratum corneum lipids and keratinized proteins, using a hydrophobic solute, indomethacin, and a polar solute, 5- and 6-carboxyfluorescein (CF). Treatment of the skin with either oleic acid or oleylamine resulted in significant CH2 C-H asymmetric stretching band shifts and broadening. The extent of spectral alteration varied with the chemical structure of the penetrant. The penetrants increased the lipophilic indomethacin flux and shortened the lag times through the skin in vitro. The plot of frequency changes vs. indomethacin flux or lag time demonstrated a linear relationship, thus indicating that spectral alteration in CH2 C-H stretching regions of stratum corneum lipids may provide a reliable index for characterizing penetrants. The data also showed that the hydrophilic group which attached to the CH2 group in the penetrant molecules did not play a part in the membrane permeability enhancing action. Oleic acid and oleylamine appeared to induce a conformational alteration of the keratinized proteins from alpha-helix to beta sheet. Such alteration was also observed with PG treatment. Accumulation of CF was significantly increased by the PG pretreatment of the skin, thus suggesting that PG-induced protein conformational changes could be related to the enhancement of CF accumulation.