Aging and effects of ultraviolet A exposure may be quantified by fluorescence excitation spectroscopy in vivo.

The fluorescence properties of skin chromophores such as tryptophan and collagen cross-links might be useful markers of aging and photoaging. As the fluorescence of pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links was found to increase with aging and decrease with photoaging we investigated the characteristics of this dependence. In vivo fluorescence excitation spectra (emission at 380 nm) of SKH hairless mouse model skin are characterized by two bands centered near 295 nm and 335 nm due, respectively, to epidermal tryptophan moieties and pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links. Several groups of hairless mice were followed over a period of 18 mo to document changes in skin fluorescence with aging. Other groups of animals were exposed to either broad band or narrowband ultraviolet A radiation to determine the effects of ultraviolet A exposure on the fluorescence of the dermal collagen cross-links and to determine an action spectrum for the induced changes. We also found that the intensity of pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links in vivo increases linearly with age and that the fluorescence of epidermal tryptophan decreases linearly with age. We found that the fluorescence of pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links decreases immediately following exposure to ultraviolet A whereas epidermal tryptophan fluorescence increases. Both changes were dose dependent but the increase in tryptophan fluorescence occurred exclusively in young animals (2--6 mo old). We found that the ultraviolet-induced fluorescence decrease of pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links is wavelength specific. The action spectrum for the ultraviolet A effect on the in vivo fluorescence of pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links shows a distinct maximum at 335 nm that corresponds to the maximum in the fluorescence excitation spectrum due to pepsin-digestible collagen cross-links. Our results seem to indicate that in vivo fluorescence of epidermal tryptophan moieties and collagen cross-links in the dermal matrix may serve as markers for skin aging, for photoaging, and for immediate assessment of exposure to ultraviolet A radiation.