Biomelanin antioxidants in cosmetics: assessment based on inhibition of lipid peroxidation.

Acute adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation in humans include sunburn, photosensitivity reactions and immunological suppression. Chronic exposure to UV light, particularly the UVB (290-320 nm) component of the UV radiation, and certain environmental chemicals increase the risk of nonmelanoma skin cancer and play a major role in cutaneous aging. The lipid peroxidation (LPO) of biomembranes, mediated by reactive oxygen species and free radicals, is one of the major causes of cellular damage induced by UV radiation and toxins. Antioxidants, such as vitamin E, vitamin C and melanins, are reactive oxygen and radical scavengers, thereby minimizing the light- and toxin-induced tissue destruction. We examined the influence of 8 biotechnically produced polyphenolic melanins on the LPO of microsomal membranes in comparison with alpha-tocopherol, ascorbate and synthetic melanin. All biomelanins showed better inhibition of peroxidative damage than synthetic melanin. Three of the 8 tested drugs inhibited the LPO at least as effectively as vitamin C and vitamin E. The combination of the most effective biomelanin with both vitamin C and vitamin E resulted in greater LPO inhibition than caused by each agent alone. Our data show that biomelanins are potent inhibitors of the peroxidative destruction of biomembranes, indicating that these compounds may be useful antioxidative agents in cosmetic preparations. Copyright 2000 S. Karger AG, Basel