Interactions of elastic and rigid vesicles with human skin in vitro: electron microscopy and two-photon excitation microscopy.

Interactions between vesicle formulations and human skin were studied, in vitro, in relation to their composition and elasticity. The skin ultrastructure was investigated using transmission electron microscopy (TEM), freeze-fracture electron microscopy (FFEM) and two-photon fluorescence microscopy (TPE). The main difference between the vesicle formulations was their elasticity. Elastic vesicle formulations contained bilayer forming surfactants/lipids and single-chain surfactant octaoxyethylenelaurate-ester (PEG-8-L), whereas rigid vesicles contained bilayer surfactants in combination with cholesterol. TEM results showed three types of interactions after non-occlusive application of elastic PEG-8-L containing vesicle formulations on human skin: (1) the presence of spherical lipid structures containing or surrounded by electron dense spots; (2) oligolamellar vesicles were observed between the corneocytes in the upper part of the stratum corneum; and (3) large areas containing lipids, surfactants and electron dense spots were observed deeper down into the stratum corneum. Furthermore, after treatment with vesicles containing PEG-8-L and a saturated C12-chain surfactant, small stacks of bilayers were found in intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Rigid vesicles affected only the most apical corneocytes to some extent. FFEM observations supported the TEM findings. Major morphological changes in the intercellular lipid bilayer structure were only observed after treatment with PEG-8-L containing elastic vesicles. TPE showed a distinct difference in penetration pathways after non-occlusive application of elastic or rigid vesicles. After treatment with elastic vesicles, thread-like channels were formed within the entire stratum corneum and the polygonal cell shape of corneocytes could not be distinguished. Fluorescent label incorporated in rigid vesicles was confined to the intercellular spaces of the upper 2-5 micrometer of the stratum corneum and the cell contours could still be distinguished.